jono

thanks for adding your observations. Yes, I wonder if the shape of the strut mount continues to contribute an angle of camber ? to the strut. I don't think the mounts angles are to counter the orientation of the tower levels. More persevering today with emery paper I think. Another post I made has a few successful EA82 struts mounted to EA81 hub assemblies. I need to look from a different perspective maybe ?

I think I have found a minute , 0.5mm difference in the strut shock OD of the tube that fits into the socket of the stub axle between the two models Comparing factory OEM stuff to aftermarket EA82 strut. Been trying to slip an EA82 strut into the socket of an EA81 - uh uh, not wanna budge, not even with a screwdriver set in the expansion slot. They are usually a tight fit when not interswapping. Maybe I need to remove the paint.and just keep going with emmery paper until they fit !! Maybe I will just resort to lubing the old bush tops and spring for new EA81 struts and be done with it, but have made my two holes in one tower to take the EA82 strut mount. Already dropped my balls in the sand below when the CV inner came apart

Anyone recall a member who had a crazy steering pull or not return to centre despite whatever they did/replaced? Just got thinking as I looked at which way the tri stud EA82 strut mounts fit up in my EA81. They are not same plane all around and need to be marked on them being pulled for correct refit. Put them in the wrong way, bolt up and maybe, just maybe, you could get a crazy steering event ? Wondering if it was an EA82 car that had this problem, don't recall, or whether it was resolved without matches and accelerant search function is not my friend once again

some of those PVC pipes you inserted go all soft from the heat of underbonnet - but good idea - you seem to have taken a soft baffle effect from the air flow meter - resulting in better light throttle response (maybe not even a dyno could detect )

OK. I'd best keep findings together in this thread. Using other threads to extract info. I have found that an EA82 strut top on its own, will fit any direction in its three holes - well the test board did anyway. BIG BUT is that the factory manual does not explain to mark top mount as it is removed, yet another manual does, and for good reason. The strut mount has a certain angle built into it, as does an MY strut mount. SO, due to this reason alone, the strut top should be mounted only same way as it is in EA82 / L Series bodies one hole to front, two to the rear (and they may not be in a straight line across both studs of both left and right !? I need to check this first. And I need to check the built in incline of the strut top mount to ensure the high side between two studs goes to the rear and not the inner side anyone know ?? So, to install an EA82 tri stud strut mount in place of an EA81 two stud strut mount - looks cleanest and easiest to install using the original front stud hole (as bratman18 believes he did) of the EA81 body for template guide, and accept that the 4WD one day AWD will be set up as Fuji intended a FWD to be, in the forward position of the tower elongated hole, and not the rearward 4WD position. Wondering just what difference there is in geometry theory that I am playing with. Will I likely get better on road handling, and harsher off road ? So far, one EA81 strut is out and the strut top mount bearing is as stiff as, needs a good soak at least to revitalise it.

OK. On closer inspection the EA82 strut tops on the front struts, are not symetrical as far as a triangular symmetry goes. I was planning on just installing the EA82 strut top in my EA81 by drilling a few holes, adding reinforcement washers, shove the EA82 struts in and away I go. Much closer inspection shows the tops have a rake to them when viewed from normal underside, and I am guessing the rake is ramped up at the back fitting end - again, if a triangle can have a back end. The rake is more from two stud points down to one stud point, so is starting to suggest the fatter section sets towards rear of tower, not side ? well, there are some angles seen in L strut towers !w I loosely inspected the distances of each of the three studs to see they at least measure up equidistant around the triangle and from the centre, The only hole drilled so far, is likely the wrong one in an old rough mount. In keeping with the strut mount centre being more rearward for the 4WD position, rather than the FWD forward position (gained by spinning EA81 strut mount around) I was planning to mount the EA82 strut mount using the single EA81 strut mount hole, make two new ones to the front. This self inspired method is reverse of how they are in the no adjustment for 4WD or FWD mount positions in EA82 bodies. Is also opposite how another member did it. Think I am beat - will have to use the forward mounting position as in FWD, but in 4WD AND will have to work out which way the mount sits underside of the strut tower. I might get FWD handling in my 4WD !! Does anyone recall the EA82 strut tops only fitting in one way in the triangular bolt pattern ? The factory manuals give no indication. edit - the Gregories manual says to mark the orientation of the strut mount before removal ! This suggests two things 1, that it can fit back incorrectly and 2, there is something in its position I have only ever pulled struts out of EA82 Also threw out a strut top thinking it was of no use due to a broken stud ! Know better now ! Any of your experience or knowledge shared in here in this topic will be appreciated

Gotta like how we are now told about the warped intake, the two sets of intake gaskets , keeping a little info from us - to test us huh ? Noticed this happens a lot on forums - might be guilty of it myself, not wanting to cloud an issue

OK, fingers off the buzzers ! I hope it did not hurt too many heads Tom has got it I plan to shove EA82 front struts in EA81 to make use of some left overs, do away with old soft struts, and the three stud strut mounts are needed to take the larger bore strut. The jelly bean shape was taken directly from the factory reinforcement plates fitted to the tower tops. Going to need two per side for the new hole locations. WooHoo Tom, well done ! I have a crusty old mount I have removed the splined studs from. Going to drill one of three mount holes out to suit the EA81 M10, mount the old crusty underneath where they belong, use an M10 to bolt it in, as a template drill guide at the front side. Using the rear most hole as the single to keep the strut line-up in 4WD position. It will look mounted in reverse to EA82 strut tops. This whole idea will also help towards in keeping suspension from donor vehicle to go with donor engine - EA82T

maybe you need to think like a Fuji electrical engineer, and look at it from the other side . Maybe it is the earthing side of the switch seeing an earth somewhere to light the switch up at the wrong time? Maybe you need to run a relay so when ign is off, so too is earthing or power just to the switch, maybe with a diode ? Can see myself going down this track also and looking into local laws as to what the lights are - fog or fog and poor visibility conditions and if only allowed with park circuit and not with any beam of head lights, though have seen otherwise on many cars..... just not old Subes

they aren't mystery to me, maybe to others though and an Australian $2 coin does not help many get an accurate idea of the dimensions of the black things. Going in an EA81 body. Complete set, just knocked them up from over engineered spec 5mm plate/bar , just not finished - need a hole in each to do that. Anyone time to waste to guess ?

it is funny how in the country of origin of the water use clothing item -Speedo - apart from all the other names they are called - we call them Speedo's , whether referring to one pair or more. Once heard "Joey" on Friends mention a Speedo and thought he needed correcting, but looks like the whole of America dropped the last 's' Not sure how one can be a pair either , pair of pants, shorts, trousers, undies or jocks - one set iis always a pair ??

gen2 alert !

fitted up two sets of these robust, dead-lockable door locks to both my Gen2 Brumbys. It would have been more convenient if they were coded the same The GEN2 door locks require the flat , dog bone shaped latch lever #3 to work correctly. The dead lock function does not quite reach the 90 degree position, so the keys need to be made like the emergency key included among the four keys and key fob in the kit

not have personal experience yet it seems to have been done - more easily with the no longer in production Bratgeebah Crosbred conversion kit that was around A $1300 last time I asked. On top of this the actual donor parts were needed. Others with engineering abilities and access to machining/manufacturing services have done it other ways.

maybe this shot will bump my thread and give a better look at themechanism involved to add ruggedness to the RX. The brownish lever (cable attachment smaller hole) to the right of the pic with two holes in it is all one fixed piece with the brownish cylinder of pipe u see below it, and the nut on the stud. The stud holds a roller surface that rolls against the clutch pedal mating slider surface...if you see what I mean ?? You can't see the roller mating surface of the pedal shaft, is below top of pedal in pic, but can be saeen in picture above this one As well, you will see where an EA82 clutch cable securing point fits to the box nicely. Plan is to fit it into my Brumby, swap EA81 accy pedal for its more suitable shape with floor etc. The top mounting point needs to be extended to make up for the EA81 extra length in this spot. The plan is for a 5 speed of some sort from EA82 range. Just wondering if the extra 9mm of travel at the pedal over EA81 travel is going to affect adversely, the 4 speed clutching untiil EA82 box is in I just want to be able to test drive the four speed to assess it for suitable sale..good ones are fetching good money

ahh...thanks for keeping this topic full of inspiration bratman. A lot of thought brings me to conclusion that you installed as per a FWD would require it, the centre of the strut more forward - a very tiny change in the big scheme of engineering, but I wonder what benefits each model has with the different positioning ?? Time to consult a good manual I have ..... it just says to take care to note the instal direction for the vehicle type.There are three different sets of camber, castor (which have no adjustment- read only ) and toe in in the wheel alignment specs ! Yet only two ways the top mount can be installed !

Well, while some of you were drifting off to sleep - I shot off in the heat of the day to a wrecking yard (rare breed these days) where I was sure to find a Brumby been sitting about last eight years or so, and thre it was, up above an MY wagon, with struts already removed , just waiting for me to try fit an EA82 top mount. Having removed the three M8 slined studs earlier made it all a lot easier to see - it fits just so nicely in the one stud at the back, two at the front fitment. The plan will be to fit the two front studs back in the mount and drill out remaining hole to do an M10 bolt and nut combo to retain the tight fit in the hole in the EA81 strut tower. From holding the EA82 mount up under where it is supposed to go is hell easier than guessing from above with EA81 mount stil in there. All I need to do now is make up or source the crescent shaped washers to replicate factory for the top side thanks for reading.

was just talking to sachs dealer this week in Oz, shrugged shoulders at me - no listing for rears for Brumby/BRAT

thinking out loud to myself again, and a few others..... now, if bratman applied the 'everything is opposite' between EA81 and EA82 body design, you may have installed the top mounts with one bolt hole of the three to the rearmost original EA81 hole, made two new ones line along the front, whereas EA82 had the one hole at front, two along the rear - for better strength, or just a flip of the yen in the engineers back room ?? Using instal this way would avoid some issues raised above.

RIGHT - partially answered now - you know how many things on EA82 are beefed up versions of MY stuff and won't fit without some extra effort ?? Well, same deal here.EA81 MY stuff is M10 (thank Fuji for edit button :0 )threads x 2 on top mount to tower, EA82 is M8 x 3 top mount to tower for th studs and the strut top centre bolt is again next size up from EA81, so....EA81 top mount would need either drilling out and you lose the flat within the hole to tighten nut up against or tossing One handy item is that one of the towers holesfrom both my 'looks', and only looks ! correct distance from centre so you would think - then two new extra holes to be drilld in the tower to take EA82 bearinged top mounts. I can see self using already fitted EA81 strut top nut to make a scriber to make a circle scribe on tower top to start determine where these two holes need go, plug up old other hole , paint over and nobody know !! From more looking, if you were to use the front most hole of the two on an EA81 tower and use that position to determine the location of the rear two holes to take an EA82 top mount, to me, it looks like you are closer to assuming the VAN and FWD position of the top moun rather than the 4WD position. Remember, the EA81 top mount is a two model affair, sit it one way for 4WD and the mount sits to the rear of the oblong oval shaped hole, or flip it 180 degrees and it sits most forward in the FWD and VAN position ! This flip flop of the top mount was not carried into the EA82 range Looks like a little trimming of EA82 mount plate would be need to centre it as best as in an EA81 tower ....

Righto - here comes a pic of RX pedal box featuring the different pedal system - cable is same length IF the cable that came on it was original. Pretty tricky to take one shot and see it all. The pedal does not have the crank off to 90 degrees above the pivot. There is a whole lot more levers and swing pivot points

Great feedback ...now, one question remains a little unanswered - whether the tops are interchangeable on the struts themselves, as I plan to fit EA82 struts to the EA81 strut tops. Will soon find out as I make my way through little tasks in the way

great ! thanks for speedy reply on this one. next question road going or off road only ? If road going, did it alter tyre wear at all, change height or did you kep same springs in car on swap? Been thinking the EA82 thre stud top mounts would be an improve, just as long as the hole in top of tower allows for same 'towards the rear of hole mounting position' as towards the front is for 2WD. Was not sure if hole was really even same size. I trust you added reinforcement washers to new holes in top of tower then ? again, thanks - you may have saved me spending - got some old but better EA82 struts laying about

I tried the search function and did not find the answer for above question. Will A82 4WD struts just go directly in a 4WD EA81 front end without modifiactaions etc ? I am thinking retain EA81 hubs where strut bolts up, retain EA81 top mount and just shove EA82 struts in place. Surely someone has asked and proved one way or another before me. Answers appreciated...and if I try said swap and get news, will share

no-o-o don't ditch the second fuel tank either - go dual tanks for longer touring range !