jono

an EJ enthusiast caught out in an EA thread Get an engine warm enough and its buttermilk oil and coolant combo may just blow steam as moisture may slip past the rings I had no idea that EJs don't have freeze plugs in their heads - learnt something !

freeze plugs ?

that would be the square box on box EA82 L Series - the removal of the dash surrounds to get at the cluster is quite daunting to the inexperienced (hand up) Someone must be able to describe where to find the locking wedge shaped ? click in locking tabs? You just need to know where to prise to pop the first one and continue. There is some flexibility in the gauge surround plastics.

been top secret until now ! Is more than just the pedal too !! Whole shebang mechanism of it all .....

Yes, thanks to both of you so far having replied. To the uninitiated, the RX pedal box is a complex looking beast - much like how a Vortex XT clutch pedal arrangement is. Not a simple explain as a longer leverage there looks to be more pivot points, bit like adding another pulley to ease lift a load on a multi pulley set up with ropes etc. My apologies, I should have included a pic. It is more like a luxury item I may need to pioneer this. I got the pedal box out of what left factory as a 3 speed auto 4WD turbo sedan - GLTA. When I converted my other GLTA I used the std pedal box from the donor touring wagon. Pedal was soft as, with nice valeo pressure plate. I plan to fit this RX pedal box up to an MY Brumby gen2 while still running an EA81 4 speed, but in preparation for EA82T AWD 5MT SR conversion

can anybody relay the differences in clutch pedal feel between the turbo models and non turbos ? The RX at least, the earliest EA82 RX had a rather complex though sturdier ? arrangement for the clutch pedal and cable. RHD use the same cable between most non turbo and the RX from what I can gather. Just is there any pedal feel benefit ? It will most certainly mean pedal box out to swap clutch cables on a RHD. I intend to modify the upper mounts (extend, plate weld and drill mounting holes I think) to fit the EA82 pedal box into my 89 EA81 utility rather than modify the EA81 pedal box to take EA82 cable and 5 MT

sheepers ! Have a look at the in man at rad side, just underneath the carby, should see a rubber hose of 7mm ID that hooks to a metal tube goes into man under front of carb. That bit if you have it, contributes to a flow circuit. Look at a carby kit base gasket and you will see a hole about 12 x 10 mm separate from air hole - that is where colant or plain water can seep past into in man and turn sube into a steam truck. I have drilled out from carb side top of man, tapped to M12 and plugged hole off several times to prevent leaks, never had anymore problems . Welch plugs can rot in heads and feed water into oil, can make some steam this way, but minimal. Or you have major HG or head problem

compression test, tappets ...resolved issues before

thanks for keeping us posted .... from what I have learned of EA82 - FWDs still the smaller diameter 200mm ? Unless the FWD is a turbo, found they use same clutch as 4WD NA and turbo 4WD in 225mm !! Could be wrong though ....

OK, now you begin to confuse me - first you say it is all good but from this noise problem, then later you say it has bad compression, yet it runs fine. OK. I had the best, crsipest power delivery EA82T, so quiet in operation - like new. Would have bet a left one that it was a good reliable runner, until I ran it up a test mountain - turned into a JB 007 style smoke screen - engine oil getting up the rear baffle and into the intake at a rate not affecting spark, not a miss at all. Took a down hill run and a bit more to clear the air Big surprise when I did a comp test 130,13,130, 60 Heads off, heads fine, so must be blow by, some scuff marks on bore ...and that is where the story book closed five years ago. Another negine went in, this one sits waiting for autopsy - alongside another with a long life tick from gudgeon pin bush ?? Keep reading, my daily EA81 was making chugging noises at idle - found 130,130 in one bank hot, 150, 160 in the other side. Reset tappet clearances, got 165 in all four pots - chug a chug noise gone. See what I am getting at ??

is it from an Alfa Sud or Cirtroen ?? Just does not look like a Subaru casting at all does it ?

Can any1 see reason why reversing the air flow across the internals of my EA81's PCV ? I would like to reduce amount of pipes , tubes, breathers etc and fit a PCV one way valve [to stop bad breath] and air intake filter pod thing on the #2 #4 bank rocker cover and have the air breathe out the #1 #3 rocker and directly up to my modified intake tract which is closer to #1 #3 side. Won't be upsetting some rare physics law or engineering must do ?

idiot light is for oil pressure in this generation. Oil level indications come in slightly more recent upmarket cars and no dipstick reckon you will be fine

module alright, but must be from an EA81 ? Whole dizzy might be EA81. Depends, maybe markets were different around the world, but early EA81 got points, then across to this module. To see module in EA71 is odd, maybe a normal upgrade. Maybe post up numbers cast/ engraved in the side of the dizzy body to have others compare. These modules are about 40 bucks on ebay and pretty common cause of no spark - maybe why it parked 14 years ago

that old lifter noise first is a handy sign to stop and go chase. i too ignored same likely source, planning to redo exhaust gaskets the weekend coming at the time. Power got worse and worse to stall state, would not idle, or restart. My oil was not just low and neding a top up, my oil pressure switch for idiot light blew out its diaphragm, spraying new oil out of my just rebuilt engine costing fifteen full pay packets. New oil in a clean bay could not be seen until road grime settled in it, in the bay, underneath and rooster tailing on the rear. I had about one litre of oil in sump as it took a four litre top up. This was thirty years ago, 350,000km since passed on this tough old Ford six - still going strong. The oil loss may have toughened it up! Next oil change you may want to try an engine oil flush to help clean lifters

knocked up an insulated divider , race car style, to encourage cooler outside air for the intake. Intention is to keep the heat of the radiated air just passed through radiator - away from intake. Took about ten minutes to make using a paper bonded foam sign board available from newsagents, stationers etc MKI was white and showed up dirty marks, stained etc, this is MKII, so a little better developed, using faster construction materials such as the pipe insulation and colour contrast silicon - just a big trail of it on the board, lay pipe insulation in roughly preferred path, shut lid to hold things in place while silicon set Was part of a tune up urgently needed due to the EA82 Y pipe I installed. I think it allowed EA81 exhaust valves to run hotter, decreasing the 4 thou hot set clearance to nothing, riding the valves and gave low comp on one bank and serious low speed idle issues once engine was fully warmed up, also increased consumption markedly to about 64 litres for 440km !. Reset tappets to cam maker specs of 6 & 8 thou, new spark plugs BP7ES , range colder for hotter burning propane fuel. I bettered my target fuel range by 1.6 litres - did 63.35 litres 540 km on propane

my head hurts ....have you measured the 'pull' distance at the cable / fork ? It should do 25mm from rest to fully depressed. RXs had a different pedal box set up- including different pedal, but used same cable. There is no spec for pull of just RX V's others. Clutch disc orientation is fool proof I think. The RX box has 25 spline stubs for CV shafts - guess you are on top of that and not your problem at this point anyway, your old box had 25 too ? When you say you can slect all gears with engine not running - are you using clutch pedal each shift or just got a sweet spot and can do without declutching ?

the main fuse just off from the battery pos terminal - known as fusible links - check them for integrity. It may just be the fuel pump is on its way out and may do it again. A new pump, may or may not fix the problem.

a small packet of foresight would not hurt sounds like you have a few ideas as to what can go wrong but, do you service the beast regularly or wait until something goes wrong then fix it ? A spare new radiator cap, some magic sealant for coolant systems and a digital multimeter. Little things like a tune up before hand can be helpful - check and adjust brakes, annual fluid bleed ensures you have best fluid in brake lines. Redo the battery terminals as in clean them up, remove any corrosion occuring on the main aluminium cable with a bit of emery paper, and tighten up both earth and power sides of all wires, check battery is full of its 'water' and has a nice charge rate. Travelling in dark time ? A handy torch might be on the list. Check your wheel nuts are easy enough to undo - incase you been to one of those tire shops that over tighten or give you complimentary cross threaded bonus - real nice on the side of the road half an hour from your cabin. Spare fuel filters and don't run to the last drop that you normally don't do - could be some nasty crud down there ....

next vid, how about some hard cake soap rubbed on the belts to quiet them down, drop the 5-30 grade and use correct grade for EA82T in your temperature operating ranges like 15 40 ? I had similar sort of noise from mine when it was running tight exhaust valves producing 130 130 on one bank, 150 and 160 on other bank - at op temp. Cold next morning - add ~10 psi to all readings Lucky mine's EA81 so could adjust valves to cams spec achieved 165 psi all four pots cold cranking. Odd noise gone. Goes like a rocket again. For tips on Advance timing meaning number increases - think you see it on the flywheel. And yes, as you wind bost max up, decrease timing as in retard, or lower the timing light number. I took mine down from 20 to 16 at 800 rpm, no vac advance connected - rather line plugged for timing job, on a flapper style when I wound boost to 12 ish. Factory manuals for these engines suggest 130 psi crank pressure is a good engine. How is the blow by pressures in crank case ? Take oil fill lid off while running to look to compare ?

if you can supply me some replacement hair, I can reveal why an 85 86 EA82 turn signal switch buzzes.This would replace hair lost during a three week fix. I found when all turn bulbs are shot, the switch buzzes. Replace one, buzz slows, replace another buzz improves, then, when all six are in good working condition, connected up, earthed correctly the bleedin' switch ticks like normal. Check to see you have power to all your indicator bulbs, that they earth and they work......

I don't know how a 7.7:1 comp engine runs so sweet off boost, am sure it would not go as well if there was no hair dryer at all in the equation. Sort of hard to believe just upping from 9 to 9.5 is gonna sort yours ?? I knew I should have kept that short from an 85 FWD !!

OK. ECU in your beast ? If so, you could try unplug its connectors one by one see if fuse blows .....If your alternator spiked or surged it could have done something to a component protected by the fuse panel fuse before any fuse could blow as mine did behind the cluster, and a few other places, such as the diode checker on my 3AT 4WD switch box and all hazrd blinker globes and interior globe. You need to isolate each circuit off that fuse until you find it.

now, the last suggestion of piston V block ID marks is one I did not expect to hear. The letters represent not oversizes though ? More super specific piston to bore sizes, clearances, years ? So, I need to be aware of these measures before I go shove EA82T pistons in an EA81 block ???

OK, thanks Flexhone is about mates shop somewhere. Not sure what I am gonna try when time comes.....