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jono

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Everything posted by jono

  1. jono
    the writer refers to his Brumby, so may be RHD stuff, which could be different to LHD components, might not help you. I have recalled though that I use the brake pedal safety pivot system on clutch pedals both EA81 and EA82 to assist in ease of pull apart and reassemble - no flimsy super springy clip to fly off to the never never. Still pull pedal box out to ease swap job. I think as the EA82 pedal has the longer lever, it will no longer allow an EA81 cable to line up through its pedal box mount, won't allow cable to exit firewall at correct angle to work nice outside on clutch fork... I did some eyeballing of EA81 flywheel compared to EA82 flywheel, lay both of them crank side on smooth surface and could see the need for the 4mm spacer to be used between starter motor and bellhousing. You may need to examine your set up to get some idea. Bolt both old and new in back of engine to measure the ring gear and pressure plate mounting in relation to engines bellhousing. If a fly is machined, two decks need to be done to retain factory steps, otherwise just letting clutch pressure plate slack off.
  2. jono
    Just be aware that at least down under, we got different fuse blocks under dash between the years, yours might be different from those advising you too ! You said you were going about upgrading the FL to the more modern plastic body female fusible link FFL , yeah ? Did you get around to doing that ? Curious as to what rating FFL replaced your black fabric covered FL. Some have said swap colour for colour, whereas a lot of thought by some who know normal electric and fuse blow ratings etc, suggest colour for colour is too high rated. Black fabric genuines croos to black FFL which are 80A. I halved the 80A and fitted a 40A rated FFL and had no problems. What rating was new fusible link ?The answer may not have any bearing on finding your problem though ! Does the blowing fuse blow immediately ? Does it blow on acc or IGN ON without starting engine, or have you gotta start and run engine before it blows. Turn off every accessory etc tooo helps eliminate odd things, switch on and off one at a time....
  3. jono
    how many of you have built or rebuilt EA engines and used preloved pistons from other EA engine? It is not a practice I have done before, feel it sounds a bit low budget risky, and is different from a tear down and reiring where pistons go back in same bores. It sounds like it has been done, or intended to be done by a few people in here. Do you also measure up pistons and bores to be within spec, or just slap it all back together and go on your merry way ?? Any problems foreseen or experienced ?
  4. jono
    and it is not really in the block itself is it ? More the pistons - so depends on how far you are going with a rebuild
  5. jono
    I can verify that RHD EA81 pedal has a shorter lever than RHD EA82. Had the two out side by side, on the same pedal pivot shaft mounted in a vice, both with cables, trying to prove the longer lever (top side) had a greater/;onger final throw, could not see it happen, due to pedal stopper devices missing. Take it from me - there is about a 1/4" difference in the top lever length and the cable pull hole is further away from pedal pivot centre,
  6. jono
    I run an EA82 carb block with turbo heads and cams as an NA and love it, gives the best fuel mileage of all my EA's as NA. Really not that much difference between the NA and turbo cams. My fuel is propane thoyh, so a bit different, but you should be fine.
  7. jono
    that sili hose above would be your best shot surely? I have seen a qualified mechanic (just not experienced with turbos) use std coolant hose for an oil drain back hose on a mid 80's turbo Mazda.Owner never came back- guess it worked ?? Nah, std coolant hosegoes all soggy with just PCV duties On my EA82T which only needs a straight return hose, used an oil resistant rubber hose from a hydraulic hose supplier.
  8. jono
    could be any number of things, so start from the beginning and do it justice and save us from the usual asks until you have don it, then tell what you have done if probs still there. Sound harsh I know, but you are 33 right! If it was mine I would be degreasing engine first, blow away any filth from spark plug holes, remove plugs and do comp test and post up results. Then would likely unnneccesarily spend on new plugs, leads cap and rotor, run some fuel cleaner then change fuel filter after a tankful used. If it runs with air filter box off I would observe down throat to see how fuel sprays from accelerator pump plunger. You want to see it blast against the inside venturi thing, not dribble. You don't want any air leaks from carby gaskets or inlet man gaskets either. I would also look inside the coil tower to ensure no corrosion and crap in there- bad for spark making
  9. jono
    OK on the use EA82 flywheel bolted to an EA81 crank ......EA82 flywheel to crank bolts are larger than EA81 fly to crank aren't they ? Larger hole in EA82 flywheel for crank bolts ? I think I have seen and read this ...so how do you go about fixing the difference if there is a difference ?
  10. jono
    Timbertiger - I found this very helpful - a spare 'w' on my keyboard. Turns the letters to into a very useful word in your post Had to read your post a few times to get the gist Do laws prevent you from towing a vehicle behind another vehicle ? Or must you use an approved trailer or tow vehicle ?
  11. jono
    yes, could be the case. My experience is from rhd perspective following what others siuggested a decade ago in order to do 5MT behind EA81 using 200mm clutch 4WD. My difficulties came about when I changed the engine to EA82 and with its 225mm fly and clutch. My first modded set up was always trying to crunch if I did not completely depress clutch pedal so was always on that borderline of failure for 240,000km OP has also made some changes with clutch and flywheeel. Measure the stroke anyway, see if you have 15 16mm then see if XT6 clutch requires same as EA82 24,25mm. If you change to EA82 or XT6 clutch pedal to get longer stroke, original clutch cable may not line up etc ?? I am curious as to where the meat came out of the flywheel
  12. jono
    the pedal stroke data is in the factory manuals in either clutch or general service section for EA82. The shorter stroke I measured with EA81 pedal and a tape measure taped to a secure point on engine, end of tape measure zip tied to clutch cable end at fork. Embarassingly also dummied up an EA82 pedal beside an EA81 pedal on a pivot on the benchvice and despite seeing EA82 pedal has a longer lever distance from pivot to cable pull hole, did not see a difference of anything like the 10mm advantage when activated on bench - so gave up on the idea for a while. Pedal is no problem to swap. The pedal box really needs to come out so you can cut grind remove the EA81 cable bracket, then work slowly to see where the EA82 cable will fit and work. Next time I would use a larger 10mm spacer between pedal box wall and EA82 cable mounting point - I used ally plate. Really should play with it to see the angle of cable through its operation to ensure it is happy and not awkward in its operation, least weird angle on inside of cable outer when most load on it at full pedal depression. Some have just used an EA82 pedal box, which likely requires you to slip off the EA82 acc pedal, refit EA81 acc pedal for its shape and acc cable pull. The two bolts that bolt up to the steering column - their holes do not line up, so believe others have extended the plate by welding or extra bolts and extension bracket. It may be next way I go. I tried making an extended pivot ball in bellhousing, measuring all sorts of things, wasted much time and all my spare pivots !!
  13. jono
    whoa - went down similar path in January. An EA82 clutch needs about 25mm pull at fork end of cable. An EA81 clutch pedal only gives 15, 16mm I fixed it by fitting an EA82 clutch pedal on the pedal box, also employed an EA82 clutch cable - modded the pedal box to take it - cut off the EA81 cable mount, made up a 10mm thick spacer on the side of the pedal box, watch the working angles got my 25mm cable pull- all sorted. Betting XT6 clutch also needs 25mm pull ..... you are (and I was) essentially trying to declutch an EA82 clutch with EA81 stuff. We both got away with it the first time, second time with some knowledge and measuring. My engine came out six times before it twigged
  14. jono
    a heat gun from the inside should help soften that black stuffs grip. It has unbelievable resistance to removal - worldwide it seems !
  15. jono
    The dizzy will have a part number in its casing - that will be your best steer towards a replacement 22100AA390 was a common dizzy about this age - maybe just for Oz though ....Subaru did sell new vac cans for these old things
  16. jono
    You have an engine that has been sitting since 2002 - 12 years, water in all pots, and you think it might run without major work ? I picture rusted up valves, valve guides, pistons and bores also rusted up, rings stuck ......does it turn over by hand? does it have compression in all four pots ? How good or bad is comp ?I'd try first start without water.....
  17. jono
    BIG. sorry, cannot help, but, would it be easier for someone to post the proper crank pulley bolt out to you ? Sure I could if I was just a little closer ..
  18. jono
    So, has anyone added in an extra cooler between the turbo and the block? To cool coolant a little further before it hits the turbo .. Having seen water flow out of the heater hose connection on the inlet manifold I thought water / coolant actually flowed from the thermostat housing to the turbo and return to the head underneath?
  19. jono
    get #1 cylinder on TDC and then take a pic to show us where the rotor points - means have dizzy cap off please.What direction have you set the firing order around the cap ? Clock or anti clock ?
  20. jono
    Both my jaffa GLTAs had black metal outer door handles
  21. jono
    Silly me, thought I could just swap out old suspect O2 sensor with a known good one. Not being a turbo, or even a real EA82 - I have an EA82 Y pipe on my EA81 and want to use the O2 simply for monitoring or tune up. Slide underneath armed with a 22mm ring spanner and find heat shield all over the place covering the hex of the O2 sensor. Even if I had a super long 22mm socket, the socket would hit the engine cross member A trial of CRC556 on heatshield bolts and their captive nuts reveals all is not gonna be pretty. I will also need to at leasst drop the pipes off the heads or totally remove to change out this service item. Might just have to snip heatshield a bigger hole .....
  22. jono
    Down Under, we might not have got the RX II, nor the XT6, nor the EA81 Hatches, but we did get a number of Touring Wagons with NA mpfi as well as a few mpfi Royale FWD NA sedans, any XT4 was NA mpfi. The others above have pointed out the main difference being mpfi heads and matching inlet mans are twin port on mpfi. spfi are single port so the inlets fit both EA81 and EA82 single port carb heads. mpfi engine blocks also have an extra PCV outlet pipe at the rear of the non dizzy side casing, and is accessible from behind the flywheel - there is a baffled cover plate and gasket. Most recent one I bought the extra outlet all coked up. Think I have just discovered its O2 sensor reading lean all the time too
  23. jono
    most new fuel pumps come with a warning stating there is no warranty unless the fuel tank has been cleaned prior to fitting the new pump.. Depending on what and how much crud is in the tank, it may have died a quick death How I cleaned my lines out was one metal section at a time, in the order of easisest to hardest to access, and Murphys Laws states it will be the last or hardest to access. It was. I used compressed air, not my lips . Thought my last pump was dead, but turned out the nylon mesh filter inside the tank was covered in barbacles preventing any fuel to flow. It took a few minutes of 90 psi applied to the last line into th tank to clear that one
  24. jono
    two comments one is on flywheel mods to accept a different clutch set up. I started with concept suggested on EA81 flywheel modded to take EA82 clutch for the EA82 5 speed box behind it. Started with it so far - machinist grumbled about having to watch things as it ground away, not knowing how long = not knowing how much. Suggested I take it to another named machinist, he looked and said to get first machinist to remove cover align pins on top deck, grind hard spots on lower deck and bring it back to machinist #2 for top deck lathe work. Did dthat and returned to find progress stopped. Could not get EA81 fly on lathe due to the shape of engine side of EA81 flywheel "chamfer". Needs to make an adaptor or, noticed a new ring gear would not hurt. Was willing to remove and fit new ring gear if they are available, take it back to grinder so he can do top deck, refit cover align pins, then back to have new ring gear fitted - free to do a 23mm step flywheel down to 21mm needs to take into account that there is a ring gear that is best most machined down thinner, so needs to be removed for grinding, or machined up to it - giving three distinct steps on the flywheel in the end bit of a run around - getting there, just looking for new ring gear at moment .... The exhaust studs and holes. A tip for any Sube enthusiast doing own work is to be armed with a thread repair kit and get some practice Alternative repairs have been to cut exhaust below flanges, rotate and use the other pair of stud holes. Not fun for inter swapping exhausts between cars done, not done
  25. jono
    nice find, and goshm, so much advice already, no time to read, but will suggest what I did. I used different colours from model paint set to colour code the different sections of the gear shift 1 -5 + R while it was all still out, clean and assembled. The colour coding was so I could tell at a quick moment while laying underneath, what went where, and which way! There is one or two? bolts that go one way best first time. Painted the bolt head and bush end same colour, but different to the nut ends etc. helped me several times so far. And mark where the spring fits up for the tension in there.
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