jono

I asked similar question of how to get more go from EA81 some 15 years ago, and got that there was not much at all you can do - from a Subaru specialist workshop. They ended up selling me twin Hitachi inlet manifold and carbs - these helped once I kitted them out and on a rebuild with oversize pistons and everything fresh. Highest octane fuel has made a difference with my EA82T - from 10 litres per 100km down to 8.7 litres per 100km on highway A cheap and cheerful for EA81 I found was to fit up the exhaust Y pipe from an EA82 , bigger outside diameter pipe, so must be bigger inside the second pipe inside as they are twin tubes. I got an extra 10kph out of third gear, got more torque feel so figure it is gonna give better economy, pretty sure it did give better fuel economy with other EA81 same EA82 Y pipe.. Seen hydrogen kit ~ $200 did nothing but spill white powdery stuff about the joint under bonnet of keenest hydrogen convert out. never revisited that concept again ....

Good stuff, and about time ! I fixed my own little problem too. I created it somehow after I wired in extra power sockets, one to each side of the radio console, 'rebuilt the factory cig power socket with a combo of XT and Brumby bits, made up an isolating circuit for the new power sockets so if anything sensitive plugged in at start up would not get spiked or surged -used a round 22A factory relay and momentary to latch relay to the power sockets after start up - keeps power until engine off, so next start, still no power until hit momemntary switch. I also added in a simple buzzer, two wires across IGN and headlight pos power - leave lights on with IGN off - buzzes its nuts off Then, I added in my ebay aquarium temp controller After all this work, drive off and not find problem until dark time - could not get headlights to switch on. Think I got them on first then started car and was OK until next stop in total darkness. While cranking, the dash lights all lit up ! Blinker greens in dash would go full green to half green ! Temp controller or reader at this stage would fade out display ... After tearing temp control wires out in frustration, what finally worked was to pull cig lighter fuse, start engine, lights on, then refit fuse! I pulled all the wiring I described earlier and fitted in those factory blue encased diodes everywhere - thought I'd fixed it. Tested OK on the spot, but while out on the road, did a road test in good light, temp gauge in dash shot to HOT HOT. I pulled over and fiddled, then noticed just as I opened door, door light came on, all problems quit ? What had I done ?? Brumbys don't have rear window demist, yet the plug is there, so too the 20A fuse. Plug had IGN power and two black earth wires - so I used this unused circuit for my little controllers earth and power. One of the black earth wires now goes to an earthing screw in the dash frame instead of an earth for the factory cig lighter socket - problems fixed !! Self confesseed auto electrician clown

well, i tried, but no goood

and, not for those willing to do their own engineering, more for those with money to spend and for EA81 only ? not sure...K-Mac suspension in Sydney, Australia do a kit to get camber adjustment up to 2 degrees ? out of the lower control arm inner. Is weld on item and uses Ford or Ford style camber adjuster bolts Happy to report that the link for the $1.99 bushings stil works, important question is about the sleeves - did you fit the bushes up sleeveless or did you reuse, or buy metal sleeve inserts? If so, size choice of two ...thinking half inch ones ?

not really sure of the wants of the post - think I am missing some detail ?? , and don't know why you want to cut a wire because you suspect it is the cause of your bad idle ? there is also a 2 wire TPS on NA mpfi EA82 - I have one !

Well, the watchdog TM2 comes with instructions to mount the probe which is mounted to a ringed electrical connector conveniently and heatshrink wrapped - mount it under a thermostat housing bolt. Have since made my own with ebay unit at 1/10 the price found an electrical lug supplier....started with a ring lug suitable to bolt an M8 through the hole. Then, found next size down, its wire connect end, fitted its butt inside the wire end of the larger terminal, so soldered it in place, chopped its smaller lug head ring off, drilled out new reduced size wire end to 4.0mm to take the 4.0 mm probe nice tight fit and wire up an intermittent screaming alarm from jaycar. If you have finance the watchdog is easiest option. The ebay units are nice price and a small challenge, are panel mount for best look and Subie grey to begin with .... http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=12v+aquarium+temperature+controller&_sacat=0 a current link in A$ used 12V aquarium temperature controller as search words ..... just ensure you get the one with buttons on the front panel ! If you search harder, there have been two channel units that could use to switch relays for a pair of fans at different set temps, or fans on for lower setting, alarm for overheat higher set temp. When first played with them, watched them change temp reading with probe in the breeze 0.1 deg C changes ! The vac cans are turbo specific too as they are boost retard as well as vac advance in the EA82T of 85,86. Yours likely the same and is common for the diaphragm to be shot and leak boost into the distributor. Took me five months to learn this - with the help of pressured proppane vapours sneaking inside the spark chamber on light boost - BOOM !!

got a pic of what the stand alone box looks like and where it goes ? I may be able to start you off......

why blame the pump by its looks ? Before you try next cold start look at sight glass on side of carby to see where level is in fuel bowl. It is the fuel supply - when you think about it, if it is correct level engine should start and run until that small supply has run out. No need even for a pump until it drains or dries up !

I should declare I have owned three automatic cars and no zip about auto trans - other than to remove and dispose of. I had a 3AT 4WD box in my 85 EA82T sedan. It had two things on your passenger side. Both leaked, one had vac line to it. These test ports are not indicated to be there with these things, more between the pan and the rear section of the gearbox, like there is a mid section of the auto tranny with test ports plugged up. I never tried to fix mine when it would hold on to second for too long with foot flat , wait for the change up. Never even changed fluid or looked at filter, so just looking at diagrams to try answer some of your question. Just how clean is the underside of your tranny ?

just rear of the tran pan - how many plugs have you got facing downwards to ground ? It is there that a diagram points to to fit adaptor to pressure line to an inboard pressure gauge - they suggest the bung plug from clutch cable hole in toe board (firewall) is used to run the pressure line. That stepped piston governor thing can be deburred to fix a few problems too

no pic as yet, but I'd like to nominate a lock nut from EA82 spfi throttle adjust as a rare part. It is 8mm hex, is not M6 1.0mm pitch. If it is M6 it is finer pitch 0.7 or 0.8mm it may be M5. I was cleaning mine on its stud in the wire wheel, touching it to the wire wheel and pulling out, before it could get a spin on it. Well pulled out except for the last time, saw it drop to the carpet on the floor, heard a timely noise of something hit the shed door, below was gravel I put the gravel through a sieve, I ran hard drive magnets through the gravel and came up with a carby needle, clip washer, normal washer, numerous screws from interior etc, iron possessing bits of dirt and gravel, more screws n stuff, and finally - a nut. just didn't look quite the same - turned out to be an M6 1.0 nut. Other Sube mpfi throttle stops are normal 1.0mm pitch from the looks. Over two days in different light, probably two hours of searching - I found it stuck to the ick build up grime on a Vortex manual shifter in a box in opposite direction to the 1.5 sq metre I was searching. With two known spfi inlet manifolds in Oz - it is indeed a rare part !

Don't bother showing them your VIN plate. Don't worry, 92 exist in my fantasy world too - got one You work in spare parts, car parts ? If so, you'd be used to that sort of confusion. Send me a PM and I'll give you a contact that knows his stuff, in central NSW - Riverina district

from what I have worked out with EA82 mpfi pumps is that there is two part numbers, and the difference between them is years, not NA V's turbo. Pump is easy to swap, more so if you can work on choppers, surely ? Two wires, two hoses - from tank is 1?2" nearly, outlet is std 8mm ? Two hose clamps Pump is external, mounted to a plate using 10mm nuts, right hand rear side of under car near front of swing arm. Spray some lube above and let sit a while as gets dry and rusty up in there. A generic efi external pump should do the trick. Test wires for pos neg and if aftermarket may need to nut the wiring out, swap plugs from old pump, solder , insulate so remains plug and play And yes, is no different to any other efi system, if pump is working, and there is fuel in it, FPR is functioning and no injectors are leaking, the line wil have pressure in it and spray out if you disconnect. If the pump is no good, maybe no pressure at all to deal with. To test it, need to T in a gauge in the line. End of line pressure seems to give me false readings, due to FPR not in circuit. 36 psi is target pressure

I knew I had seen a decent discussion on piston differences. Tom, wonder if you can go back and hit edit button ? maybe add a few ^ ^ from keyboard digit 6 pal, some block text, and maybe some spacing to make it easier to digest, even second time around ? Maybe number each pic ? See if it changes everbody's quote window pics ? I have an EA82 block I know to be NA mpfi, has '89 in casting from a wagon I have driven home to part out. It has the pistons that look the highest comp ratio (not taking into account above or below deck height max) so, they are not the hugely depressed turbo pistons, and they are not the ones that have two patterns of decompression in them. Mine have just the one angled depression for valve clearance? Looking at another short block that was from a turbo Vortex, maybe not originally, note its pistons of turbo type shoot a fingernail thickness above the block face - deck . Yet to turn the NA mpfi block to see how they sit in relation to block face . Question for Quidam is that EA82 with flat top EA81 piston in your post this page - has it become a runner yet?

you say you just done head gaskets ...has it run since then? If you have not pulled dist to do that head gasket job, when you pulled cam box off - it can be much the same as pulling dist if not lined up same as on assembly. Do a compression test to make sure things are correct there first. Or pull covers off cam wheels and show us where each one is when #1 is on TDC or better, its timing mark at 10 degrees, and what dizzy looks like, rotor might need to be pointing towards your inside fuse box if you get my drift...

is that quad headlights in 1983 ??!! In the brochure just above .....

it is about time someone asked for photos ! may as well include the VIN , just xx's for last six of 17 digits for privacy the VIN will help someone id the car being stock or not what rubbers are you asking about ? 4 speed 4WD ? If still runs 4 stud rims, go chase a set of disc rear brakes from turbo EA82 models, RX etc, save wasting time and money on rear drums. Bolt on with maybe make a new hose between caliper and body and is an awesome brake improvement. Good to see you are into preventative maintnance - not everyone is ! A good fuel additive for cleaning everything from tank to injectors, then replace fuel filter - not sure where EA81T have their fuel pump and filter. Similarly a good engine oil flush cleaner to assist keeping the hydraulic lifters clean An after market temperature unit to instal on the engine block, not in the water, with back up alarm is also a good add on. I use a Watchdog TM2 that indicated by a 5 deg C rise in normal temp - that I needed to look - found water down half a litre - prevented mishap there. Don't need to be too clever to modify an ebay temp controller for aquariums The EA82T has dual port intake, over the EA81 single port intake. On the boost you have, is double factory - work that out for yourself. Think you will find there is a knock sensor with a separate knock control unit like the 85,86 EA82T. EA82T knock sensor screws into block at top of passenger side LHD, two wires. Would think IF EA81T has knock control, sensor may be same place ? Look under the dist cap, screw hold down not spring clips ? Inside should be a module - how many pins on it? How many wires leading into dist ? If it handles the 15psi, you could rig up a two stage boost so runs normal 6 or 7 psi most of the time, flip a switch to divert boost through a solenoid from a gasoline lock off unit - propane/dual fuel parts, to switch bigger 15psi boost for special occasions

once it is finished ...... think Spike lost interest in this

enter the land of healing chemicals and see what is available to seal up cracked blocks, head gaskets etc. They can work well with the water in oil trick. Add a sealer to the radiator such as Silver Seal made in USA, must be heaps of other stuff available. Another is a black block of initially dry, then sticky stuff as you crumble , or dissolve it into coolant and hey presto ! Nice move keeping it.

drain back ? You wish ! The trans fluid in the lines will drain to the lowest point, so at least undo the lower pipe fitting first as there is a small radiator containing trans fluid inside the radiator tank. A failing of non Subaru models is the small radiator inside the tank, splits, allowing coolant to enter the auto trans and ruin your day and trans, all in one stupid action. Safety is an exterior only cooler, bypassing the radiator immersed in a radiator concept. And hide the keys until job done or you will pump trans fluid all over the joint if engine is started. Alternatively loop two lines together if you need to move car before job is done.

powered up by IGN circuit, it allows idle speed fuel to flow. It looks the same as one of mine - brittle insulation on wire, gets knocked, snappo. Word is you can buy new after market. Will likely affect your running, won't idle. Helps shut engine off when you switch IGN off. Might be called anti dieseling solenoid

31263GA651 is a repair kit listing, likely NLA. The o rings are not listed individually either. Only time I get blank looks from Subaru parts is when I ask for PS O rings. Diagrams show seals just where you found them. Never sean triangular cross sections either. Think you guess correctly - mis shapen in service.I just use a seal, bearing supplier to make an educated guess on o rings

we have not seen you or your car either, or heard what you sound like if the contact was made on the phone. Some people think if car is acting up one way or another - a simple tune will fix it - a fixed price tune at that! Poor tune states can be - holes in piston, worn, gunked or broken rings, worn bores, blown head gaskets, cracked heads. With all that you normally find, corroded components, stripped threads, broken studs - emergency repairs carried out by previous owners. All this adds to cost, or blows budget beyond good sense, mechanic sees you unhappy, your unfinished car in bits all over his shop..... strip and then quote is a good way to explain it to some people. You pay for dismantle if necessary, before they can give you a quote, or an estimate. The guy may have even sensed you were after a diagnosis, so you could go fix it yourself, or, that due to the age of the car, figured you may be so poor not to be able to afford his work .... He should have told you to bring it in for an appraisal so not to get you jacked up. Stick with your first axle replacement guy if he is happy to continue with you and us as his consultants if need be

pics there above at #16 speak a few words, if you need more room to work with try the smaller hex plugs NGK's BCP6ES ? with the C being smaller hex that uses the slimmer 5/8" plug socket ?

whOA ! Hold the bus !! How much better does it go now , with EGR deleted ? A thorough tune and carby overhaul would be a good start. Amazing what a new acc pump diaphragm does for the old things. New timing belts and tensioner kit ? Tight belts pull the cam back in tune with the crank. I found I pulled my powwer band down the rev range about 500 rpm with new belts, not as willing up top end, but better torque down low.