jono

the inlet manifold bolt pattern is the same, if that is what you need to know. I have an spfi inlet bolted up to EA81 carb heads

the way that is done down under is simplest - a small ball bearing shoved into the vac pipe of the EGR. As long as the EGR is closed - everything is good

Now, you'd think yours would be a better engine with the higher comp mpfi NA slugs, but odd combos must work out nicely. Also wonder why a turbo running 7.7:1 can be such a crisp smooth runner when it is running no boost, cruising at about 60 70 mph and about 10 inHg. You'd think a normal low comp engine would be a snail ? Must be just the fact the turbo is spinning and no boost ? I think proved to myself that EGR block would do zip as I ran a spare EGR in hand in the cabin to feel when it opened - which was never at boost, and only on lihght acceleration. The ECU was also meant to not operate it below op temp, and not above 45kph. No egr would leave a cleaner innards though Most I have had, been all choked up with carbon. Back on topic - I may find time to gather all the bits to try it out one day

or what about a black top, to give the look of a soft top ? Black the A pillars, roof, B pillars to about same level as the black of the outer window sill trim ?

something I recall, never investigated how accurate it is, word is the last Mazda 626 rear wheel drive of 1982? had a bolt off centre bearing support that fits an EA81 tunnel when doing the EA82 2 piece shaft. 1982 mazdas bit thin on the ground now ....

got to be careful what and how I say some things I had a 1985 built EA82T sedan GLTA with the three plug ECU, flapper afm. The distributor was a typical mpfi dist with screw down dist cap, not a carby clip on cap. Dist was Hitachi with old fashioned mechanical advance inside, with a four pin module inside.Module conncted to a knock sensor two pin and a knock sensor module mounted inside beside the glove box. looking at wiring and diagrams it is total stand alone spark supply, not connected to the ecu for anything. I converted to propane in a dedicated way - no gasoline at all, pulled out two of three ECU plugs and left athe third one just to run the EGR control. No problems. Even think I ran it no plugs in ECU accidentally. I then wondered if I could transfer the entire kcm , ks and disty and its wires and coil over onto what essentially would be a carby EA82 to gain max advance with a knock sensor to protect from knock and knock damage. This is as far as I got - idea My daily driver is an 84 Brumby/BRAT with a carb block, EA82T heads and mpfi inlet manifold , EA82T cams - all to make use of an engine I got in a running car wityh oil leaking HG's. Intended to turbo the higher compression to see what happens, still an idea, been warned may not last well though. I use the mpfi set up with its throttle body for a neater propane conversion - again dedicated, no gasoline system in use. I run it at 22 DBTDC @800rpm idle, vac advance disconnected at timing time. This got me thinking to try the stand alone on this engine, keeping in mind the dizzy would have a turbo advance curve, with turbo vac can on the side as well.

I put my pressure right at the tank, at whichever line fed the fuel pump. i he...OK, I felt like the wolf in three little pig story held the pressure at the hose real tight, fuel started blow at me from somewhere else ?, maybe was just air blowing back, and finally after what seemed like minutes was some sort of release - the compressed air was flowing into the tank. Then after hooking up, the pump would flow fuel. Would not expect rock to give you warranty on that pump if they knew it went dry .... That bar, fondly named moustache bar, comes off easy when back end is hanging, diff hangs on by front mount and bolt, few small 8mm or so hose clamps may be handy in your spares if you stuff the originals getting tank out, breather lines etc. Lucky you don't have redback spiders - found one living between tank and floor. Those spiders can put you in hospital, bed at least for a week, won't be able to focus beyond the bedside table and take siz weeks before you feel 100% again. Second time over was worse for an American woman I met here- she got bit twice by these dark place hiding little uglies! I resarched acid wash for fuel tanks and used hydrochloric with regard to correct method and safety - bad stuff. Nuetralised it with carb soda wash out after, just in case it not mix with petroleum that valve pressure thing must just be a damper - not likely a problem need to deal with

making a start - link to 87.5 specific scans http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/145554-875-xt-manual-online/

Okay, started to look at my ECU for stored error codes - black connectors connected, then turned IGN switch to ON getting a long green bright LED glow, followed by quick off, second long green bright glow, quick off, third long glow after a break shows same sequence - started to movie mode it in my camera to use a counter on it - battery in camera went flat as expected So, would read that as a code 3-0 yeah ? OK so, online manuals for 88 XT don't have a code 3-0 Is this a specific error code reserved for the short run 87.5 XTT ? Anyone, such as Gloyale have a copy of code 3.0 diagnosis for 87.5 ? co-operation is always appreciated

and, I am assuming that worked john in KY ? I have a dizzy somewhere from the 88 or later models, part # ending in 450 and would like to make it work in place of a part #410 optical dist. which was fitted to an April 87 spider turbo factory AWD XT, just in case I need one as a spare and know that it works and tests up OK before that need event. Best info I have got so far is just above. Had been told it was black wire to be swaped with a white wire, but no one said anything about a plug shape until found this ! and, is it essentially a colour for colour connection at the plug ? red, white brown green or whatever colours same each side body to dizzy ?

Unless there is a decent thread already going - that results from search function using words like 'EA82 ECU test plugs'- can we make this a PINNED thread please and just add the links as people find the info spread about this resource ? Going silly looking at the moment I was reading some good, actually, well written threads only just yesterday, now, cannot find them. Was likely by Gloyale, contained precise instructions as to what the green test connectors, the black test connectors do and the how, why and when to plug, unplug, read etc, etc. The factory manuals do not say green plug does this, black plug does that, just refer to 'connectors' . The thread was better written and fool proof. Thought I bookmarked it

got one sat same time, just in a city barn I tried to start it on its old fuel. Then drained it. Fresh fuel. still no start. Took 90 psi blowing right at the tank near diff, to blast the barnacles off the mesh pick up inside. Look inside through the sender unit hole to see it black and brown with crud. I got it all sorted and running - sweet. Parked it. Six months later, felt like flat battery, click, click booster battery click, click nother battery on its own, finally started but ran crap still ran crap could not even move under its power. comp test revealed zero in one cylinder , that was 190 before. Head off to find inlet valve on #3 stuck open , valve stem coated in a shiny, not set hard black sticky goop that smelled of stale fuel same story on same position inlet valve other side head. Next time I get a long term sit car will be tank out and cleaned before even trying to start, and new engine oil. I almost suspect goop disolved in fresh fuel, tainted it and gave me more hours to do head gaskets. hint hint

you are not out of it yet if the 001 ECU has three plugs, stop wondering if it will work as a 4 plugger does. I find reference that 001 was an 85/86 RX ECU, and 3 plugger I think, reckonmaybe even put money on. And, not disputing what Gloyale says but, the knock box does not have entire control of the spark, only kicks in when knock sensor signals it, I have forgotten to connect the major round black multi pin plug and driven about for days - the knock control on a rest break - didn't notice until look under bonnet again so, your knock sensor, white two pin or green one pin - also needs matching to dizzy and ECU. Any wiring loom been wired in yet ? go the guts type dizzy - need 3 plug ecu, flapper afm, white two pin knock sensor, the knock box

BUMPED, just for ARJ - those links are still good - for a1989 model so will have some 4 plug ECU infor, first link is 200 pages in pdf

is it later now ?

learning stuff here myself, so understand why you missed the point - 3 plug ECU did not use an optical/no vac can dizzy - that is where the 4th plug of a 4 plugger took over the knock and advance controls...starting to get it ?? the AA062 ECU is listed for just one model - Vortex Turbo FWD manual - 86 and 87 model year, which is different to the AWD turbo Vortex of 1987 made between January and July ? AA062 works with a dizzy with mechanical guts and can. Those cans do boost retard as well and can be rebuilt by advanceddiaphragms.com.au in Brisbane QLD about third the price of a new one - makes the world of difference seeing if I can find or you can search EA82T knock control diagram - will show wire colours etc on 3 plug ECU dizzy and knock control box, will speel things out a bit more. any good at making pics appear in a post ? found it - is in here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146890-vacuum-diagram-needed-for-ea82t-wspider-manifold/ the igniter in the diagram is the four pin module inside the dizzy been looking - about twenty (plus your unlisted AA001) different ECU part numbers for EA82 NA and turbo, and five distributors Your AA063 dizzy is designated for Australian only 86 turbo, the rest of the world got AA092 for same application !

That 001 ECU does not show in the parts listings. 002 and 003 are for 86 models. My guess is that the 001 ECU is a three plug ECU then? If so, you need to start at least with a distributor from the three plug ECU era. There was some wicked rally only ECU, wonder if it got numero uno ? And hang on - you bought a second ECU - got numbers off the second ECU then . You bought an unfinished project , was it going to start with ? You have three engines ? Whichever won't matter so long as they are turbo engines and the inlet manifold goes with correct ECU and dizzy. An inlet manifold and all its bits for a 4 plug ECU does not carry a vacuum advance line for a three plug ECU's vacuum needs If you run a 3 plug ecu, need to at least know a flapper style air flow meter is needed the fourth plug of an ECU is essentially running the distributor/coil switching and its adavnce retard stuff a three plug ECU and all its sensors etc could essentially run the engine with a carby dizzy in place, just that dizzy would have different advance curve, no boost retard, no knock retard

don't happen to have a towbar electrical socket ? They get gunk and moisture in them, cause this crap ....

OK, a 001 one !! Thought they started at 002 ! Need some numbers off the dizzies now. you got two or three dizzies ? One with vac advance/boost retard cannister on the side may have a four pin module inside? Can you please list the dizzy numbers with the AA part numbers ...AA410 , or AA450 list them separately, part number first, then the wire colours and their trace colour stripe if any you may as well add if you have a vane type air flow meter or hot wire, and how many wires out of the TPS choice of 2, 3 and six

another thought - is the twin Hitachis Tony - they open two primaries togther, with two more secondaries to go, same smooth flowing bends as any EA inlet manifold really. You will be pioneering, and even if you gain a follower trying same, it'll be a different horse, much lardier than Tweety. Your new engine will have some mighty fine vacuum to draw the fuel through whatever you fit up. Have I said I am getting impatient with this ???

excuse me for bumping this - well worth a visit if facing this task. dded bonus tips through the three pages ight be able to find it if i search my own posts, if lost in future

get one siode off the tar - not your next doors grass - someone further away, let it rip and as you reach for second, knock it in to FWD again. Actually, I got it so bad, found just jack up the rear wheels and it slips out of the diff bind. I had a wall in front of me and could not go either direction or turn stering wheel ! As soon as back wheels off the ground got the clink noise

actually, it is highly classified information, keep it secure. I would like to try the stand alone system on non turbo non efi EA82 and see how it goes. just the boost retard side of the vac can would be unemployed.

with a Fine needle from the Outside of nozzle jet

there is the basic tune up items to suspect first and if you've not replaced them, not a hard place to start with new spark plugs NGK BP6ES at 0.8mm gap, new HT leads, coil lead, check in coil tower for powdery corrosion, new cap and rotor. New air filter. While changing spark plugs do a compression test. Remove and clean out all the PCV hoses and PCV valve - it is a service item so too the little filter in the air cleaner housing. Then a spray in carby cleaner is worth a shot before putting a weber on....