jono

no idea how to change thread title. If you have ever found lead wheel weights on the side of the road as I have - they can come off on their own. coincidental that you have some sort of ply separation develop in the tyre itself. Had that happened when a mate tight wad did not replace his faulty tyre inflator - gave me 45 psi in tyres marked max 36. Stuffed them within a week Swap front to rear, one at a time see if any change ?

reckon if you have a vac can on your 86.5 dizzy you likely have a pair of philips screws visible when opening the passenger front door a little below line of top hinge, just on the inside of the seal trim .....screws you won't find on a non turbo EA82 or on th drivers door frame. Thes are for the bracket hold a KCM between the glove box and body of car. A stand alone knock control system

I am sitting on a 32/36 that actualy came off an MGB, ran well, pull well and was quite impressive around the 80 mph mark. The SU's went back on for the authentic look . Amusing the comment re not really suitable for 4 cylinders, no ida how that would come about, with four cylinder capacities ranging from say 1200 to 2600cc ! My 1800cc probably sucks just as much air at 100 kph than a 4000 cc six ! It sucks as much fuel ! Your engine builder is taking into account the light weight of Tweety so some of the design aproach may not be so good in heavier Subes ? I ran 'flat top' EA71/EA81 pistons with my 16/56 on petrol - no problems

for one thing - alignment being out does not cause vibrations or steering wheel shimmy - that would be balance. I've also had those ball joints that - would normally be the easist to ever swap out and new in , but for being a bit too big. Complained to ebay seller who claimed the usual , never had any problems or come backs - trying to imply I was an idiot and the only one , so must be me. Standard blame shifter sales technique. Ground the little beasts down using micrometer as a guide using another brand of new BJ. Sorted. No more problems. In fact, they are waiting in the pocket of my Brumby now, reusing as only did 50,000km on them Is it possible you lost a wheel weight?

well the 450 dizzy is not a stand alone spark sender as far as I know, even if you by some fluke can make it run your engine, won't have any advance. You'd better refresh just what you have and aim to do. Sounds like GEN2 Brumby/BRAT that started life with an EA81, but sounds like you have an EA82 of some sort to shove in, or is already in - just not running EA82 carby ? No, you mention computer, so you better tell what part number is on ECU if it is genuine Not sure if the 450 goes with the 550 ECU 22611AA550 is from 88 MY turbo AWD Vortex, got some notes somewhere EA82 mpfi EA82T which is mpfi as well .....only the turbo came with KS the knock sensor bolts into the top of the block non dizzy side, up the back, right at the front end of the car side of the rear PCV pipe outlet. Can be either white body with two wire or green plastic body and one wire. Think the 450's ECU works with green one wire (one pin) KS And reasons I ask is there is allegedly one wiring method for the 87 dizzy, and another for the 88 model. The black and the white wire take each others position and not sure which is which myself yet ! Here http://www.subaruxt.com/forum/download/file.php?id=80 is one ECU pinout listing

at ;east two of these 4 wire non mech advance, vac advance dizzies, and they are wired differently I believe. What is the part number on it ?

which dizzy do you think - there were two part numbers with the optical pick up - at least for the later EA82 mpfi. Spfi might have been an additional one. If there is optical pick up inside there is no mechanical advance inside - you'd need the ECU to run the advance and it would need some other inputs too surely- such as an air flow meter signal? The earliest series 1 of the EA82 mpfi turbo dizzy would work without ECU but could also be taken of advantage further if combined with a knock sensor and its knock control module. Think I have also seen an EA82 mpfi dizzy in an early XT that had a vac can on it so would be operating with ECU input ?

if the safety switch box in my Subies died off - I'd be replacing it with one of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Peel-LPG-Safety-Switch-/221360380478?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item338a1b5a3e so simple to hook up and has a little green LED for systems go I suppose.

all very well to suggest thanks Gloyale, I see yours and coxys' point entirely and was my original thinking when I pulled some 23 spline stubs from a gearbox that will never go back together again BUT, there is a couple of reasons why I'd like to keep it a 25 spline. 1. as a spare for my 25 spline XT if need ever be 2. it came out of coxys' ute and neither of us know its true condition [only sat in coxys' tray ] - except a fourth party supplier who test drove it, reported to me he remembered it and was a well function box. Warranty has long gone and don't want any of my doing to create problem. Leaving it intact wil allow judgement to be passed on the wreckers ability to recall things correctly , if you know what I mean. 3. should it prove to be a basket case I have a back up PT 4WD box to take its place - it has 25 spline stubs too. 4. might also need to say, yep, did it with a little help from a coupla forums

don't believe it is a signal comes from the distributor either, more likely it is from the coil to the fuel pump control unit. An ideal replacement would be if available in the US would be a safety control switch device for propane fuel conversions and to be wired in separately. Has four wires genrally, power supply in, switched power out, earth, and a signal wire from neg side of the coil. power wire out would feed the fuel pump.

yeah the 24 splines stood out as wrong ! You only found that detail in some records, not actually supplied to you then ? The same listing parts confusion exists down under with after market stuff. Genuine is no hassle there is one measure not included in parts listings, but helps to decipher out of unidentified used clutch pressure plates kicking about - it is the size of the hole in the doughnut of the finger tips amongst the mix of 200 and 225mm stuff. Good to see you are sorted for a while.Maybe post up the succesful brand and part number and diameter of your clutch in one sentence?

Nice pics Ferp, thanks. And interesting to note what you say you found !! Well, having looked high and low in the shed, looks like when i scored the shafts, did not get a matched pair so no second one to grub up a pair of trial fit shafts yet. I have noticed that the special one I want another of is smaller outer diameter than the std 25 spline DOJs, more the same if not the same OD as a 23 spline EA81 DOJ. Be curious to know if a 23 spline is small enough to be machined out to a neeto 25 spline ? Word is filtering through that it is Gen1 inner DOJ fitted up to EA81 axle shafts is the go.So they must be similar if not same as my special with 25 splines for the stub and 23 for the axle inside the DOJ. Never seen it spelled out in so many words and why, must be my mission in life BUT, just by eye measure can see my special is not same length as the std 25 spliners (25 on axle stub and 25 on inner race) If the difference translates into a shorter end product it may suggest why FWD shafts are specified as they look to be 4mm longer between boots small ends

NEWS FLASH... just taking advantage of suns hine, daylight and not too hot yet...grabbed another CV shaft to inspect. It has multi rib genuine look about the inner DOJ, has larger sized spline hole to fit the 25 spline stub axles, so must be out of an L Series EA82 or Vortex Inside, had to look a few times and double check - the inner race that splines onto the axle shaft has 23 spline count, not 25 as expectd due to the 25 spline to gearbox stub ! Thinking 23 spline axle shaft mated to 25 spline axle stub, this shaft may bell be off something different that I picled up a long while ago an E4AT out of an 89 GLTA auto 4 speed constant AWD turbo sedan RX lookalike. Rare as rocking horse stuff. Genuine EA81 books indicates the FWD front axle shaft is 4mm greater between CV boot inner bands, thinking it may also reflect actual shaft length is longer by 4mm ?? Starts to gel something as been told and remember a similar axle conversion using FWD EA81 axle shaft, Liberty/Legacy inner DOJs to achieve similar - off on a hunt .....j

not the only dork to have done that fine stunt !

Gloyale, confused self when I read that. Our 23 sopline output stubs are 25 spline inside diff too. Surely you got mpfi or turbo boxes with 25 splines on the gearbox drive stubs EA82s ?? Cannot use EA82 axles as they are 45mm longer. I do happen to have a pair of stubs from a 23 spline box so OK on the parts need there thanks. BUT, before I go down that route will not be confident unless I have factory instructions on the EA82 single range AWD box - if you have a link to that _ And, if lucky, local wrecker may still have a FWD auto EA81 wreck to try for bits Over here, many years ago a fella got a an EJ turbo box running in EA81 MY using a great mix of parts - such as FWD shafts for some reason, EJ Lib/Leg inner joint, EA81 CV joint and got the combo working. Also got a reply from a local who had similar built out of a parts mix, rather than any custom component manufacture from what I can gather. Thinking about it - EJ turbo box was likely 25 spline sam as what I am hoping to do - lucky the box is not in yet and have to drive to work tomorrow

Hi Jerry. Thanks for speaking up and offering contacts. You now reveal that if someone has gone to th trouble to custom make these shafts looks to be no way to mix and match ?. Sort of looks like it would be a 23 spline one end, 25 spline the other end of the axle shaft itself ? Ingenious idea allowing use of standard replacement ends EA82 inners EA81 outers Maybe that is the secret of others gone down this path I intend. I will have to go back to a shaft builder with the idea again and see if he has a resolution to the problem without custom made shafts. The other option is a crash course in box dissembly to swap in 23 spline stubs at the diff. Now, wondering if a 45mm longer 25 spline EA82 axle is shortened and splined 23 at inner end ??

The inner CV joint sort of really, technically , known as DOJ (double offset joint)is the 23 spline variety to mate the 23 splines of the gearbox output stubs of: std EA81 4WD carb EA82 4WD turbo auto EA82 4WD A post on another forum got me worried enough to investigate to find it is not a simple swap of DOJ on the end of the EA81 4WD axle shaft to be able to make use of a 25 spline output stubbed gearbox. I have pulled apart a 25 spline DOJ and a 23 spline DOJ - i suspect both were off 4WD The 25 spline of the stub axle of the gearbox carries through to the 25 splines of the axle on the 25 spline EA82 axle assy The 23 spline of the stub axle of the gearbox carries through to the 23 splines of the axle on the 23 spline EA81 axle assy crazy as it seems, I recall the 23 spline stubs on the garbox step up to 25 splines at the crown wheel and pinion !! every component of the 25 spline DOJ is that much bigger than its counterpart in the 23 spline DOJ including circlips and balls ! so nothing can be swapped/interchanged in order to do want I need to do, which what i was lead to believe - was simple- It ain't yet ! I need to be able to run a std 23 spline EA81 BRAT axle with std outer CV joint, but with an inner DOJ that has 25 splines to make use of a 25 spline gearbox I have been hoarding for many years. I could simply ask - how do I modify the CV shafts of an EA81 to run an AWD5 manual/stick box from an EA82 - please ? I recall info about doing EJ conversions and to use FWD EA81 manual, or was it auto inner DOJ cups etc to graft an EJ box to EA81 front hubs etc, there must be something I am missing, and someone on here must know, and be able to say in simplest terms.. An inner joint has the cups also known as outer race, to which the inner race (which has the splines) and balls and cage , fit neatly into. I cannot just take the inner race from a 23 spline and fit it to the 25 spline cage and balls. Help would be appreciated

to blow those metal fuel lines innards out you really need the fuel tank to be empty so you can see through the sender units hole once removed.I used a rag tied to a metal rod to sweep the crud from the tank floor where it spat out from - to the sender hole to keep things clean. Two sctions to blow, from front filter to pump connection, other side of pump to tank when you get to look at your ignition coil - if it is original black, Diamond brand, might have a 7 in a box printed on it and say use with ........igniter ? check that too and report back if need be. Someone may have swapped engine with points dizzy and wanted to keep it that way - may not known how to remove and refit a dizzy , but known how to wire in a points dizzy.

XT6 is a Vortex with the flat6 2.7 litre ER27 in it. Came out with EJ style 5 stud hubs. The front hubs including the big cast iron structure you jam front wheel bearings into and bolt front strut to - compare MYEA81 to L Series EA82 by sitting them on something square - about 15 degrees difference in their upright stance. Complaints of achieving / \ this sort of camber on an EA81 if fitting EA82 hubs brakes etc. Also know of someone who reads in here, done in, no problems reported ! You'd think XT6 hubs would use same angle as L Series EA82 and give same ba camber result

should be plenty of posts in here you could search from last 12 months on enough info. I have had both 200mm and 225mm clutches in my GEN2 Brumbies/BRATs. My made in 84 possibly for 85MY was a 200mm but had engine change so no idea if it was originally 225mm Agree with skishop entirely with listing accuracy - even got some EA82 timing belts - printed on the box to suit Brumby The EA81 4WD clutch forks were light bluey greeny colour too until somone decided to paint them black to match rocker covers change to black . Not sure if the colour change of the forks signified change from 200mm to 225mm ?

you find yourself wrestling with the tension from the rubber fuel hose laterals and may need to disconnect a few of those structure to manifold hold down bolts about the place. Use a rag to soften any blows the pintle caps may suffer from said tension. I kept smacking my brittle white pintle caps against the inlet mans injector mounts as things would slip, smack and crack the caps. I'd be trying a recommnded fuel add injector cleaner first. Gave same advice to a dude with a car been not run in 15 years- sorted !!

part numbers on the dizzy body will tell some story. It is likely previous engine went out and a points dizzy engine went in. Is engine EA81 or EA71 ? coil is supposed to be matched to dizzy, so, points coil and ign module coil are different. A points coil gets power via a ceramic resistor Volt reduced to 8 or 9 V. An ign module dizzy does not use the ceramic resistor and gets 12V at coil Your mechanic is charging you to deal with what sounds like a non std set-up. Get some pics up. You may need a weber or another Hitachi and a rebuild kit, and a fuel line clean out from front to back, check any fuel evaporative cannister for correct hook up, correct fuel line set up.....

OK, cable off the fork end, pull the rubber dust boot off and look down inside - you can see quite a bit with some good lighting. Can you work the fork back and forward to see the TO bearing touching clutch fingers? Uh oh, did someone sell you a 1985 EA82 225mm clutch kit ? no, TO bearing would look different, friction plate would not mate up ..new clutch kit or components put together to make up clutch assy ?? Flywheel machined ? retain the 23mm step or did it get a 1985 EA82 21mm step ? I was still able to drive EA81 with EA82 pressure plate, just got gear crunches so, get someone to work clutch pedal inside and see how much cable pull you get at clutch end, think it is 16mm travel for EA81, and 25mm for EA82

someone mentioned carby cleaner - always worth a blast when air box off and engine idling about 1500 -2000. Once you have done that and the backfire method after that, keeping carby cleaner job away at this time. Someone suggested elewhere the backfire method is to remember the firing order and which lead goes where FIRST, then rearrange a fwo HT leads to initiate a back fire pop under acceleration and can sometimes blow things clear inside the carby. Then, after checking plugs, leads, cap and rotor, I'd do a comp test. After that, I'd strip the carby and use whatever kit is still available

apologies if this seems off topic for this section, but don't have a lost and found I was using message system with Mr Soobscript and then suddenly things went quiet some three weeks ago- he cruises in here, so thought best place to do a lost contact ....