jono

i found i killed relays if i mounted same way you have due to water getting in and staying. have terminals hang down. good result

I just went to my local ebay site in last thirty seconds, typed in female fusible links and got choice of short leg or long leg. I don't care what your preference is for womens leg length, you need long legs in these old Subes

then, there is this one, by Denso no claim to be a knock control module at all, is in black plastic box, one extra pin and sold to me over the internet. I was expecting same metal box and part number I had before. Silly me did not ask I suppose I suspect it may be NZ DM or maybe that part number looks more EA81 stuff. Maybe it is EA81T ?

there is a few of them... only in use in the 3 plug ECU flapper afm, 2 wire knock sensor Series One 85,86MY different mounting brackets for starters - between the XT and the sedans and wagons. XT is mounted above the transmission tunnel behind the ash tray with fuel and ignition relays Sedan is mounted beside the glove compartment against the a pillar base The US RX version is different from the Australian market auto version of the GLTA EA82T 3 speed 4WD auto. Not sure yet if the RX and the GLTA AUDM got same or different yet. The plastic pin plugs have a number printed in black on them to correspond the KCM number just a 23 or a 25 in black The mounting brackets also have that same number stamped into them. KCM23C AUDM GLTA sedan 3 speed auto4WD KCM24 USDM guessing 5PT 4WD RX KCM25 AUDM Vortex XT turbo 5 speed FWD - yellow label I think the US item is different having an altitude wire.Or ours different for not having it Does anyone know much about these? Ivansimports maybe ? There is very little in the factory manuals. Parts books may help. Must go look in there

A few more gauges to watch oil pressure max 140 psi is overkill though, where clock came from, tacho to 11.000rpm (only one I could find with black face in 2" )from fuel and temp gauge hole had to flat black ( flatter than matte) the outer surround, surgically remove the highly reflective plastic 'glass' to get the right look also had to perform delicate surgery on the PCB at the rear to allow cable plug entry, holes to mount to PCB and a hole to access the change colour of LED lighting. Default colour is green, which goes OK with orange of the dash night glow. Needs to be hooked up to permamnent 12V to retain the memory or the chosen red defaults to the green. I need some tiny solenoids to mount at rear in case I lose power - save removing dash set to reset colours. Being LED I don't think I will get dimmer function to go with other incandescent globes ? Tacho replaces the fuel temp combo gauge. Figure that a fuel gauge is not somethng that needs constant watching, so its LED bar gauge will go to one side, and the temp will go digital aquarium reader with alarm. All the PC tracks I cut through - patch wired up with soldering iron. Most wires from both gauges tap into sources on the back of the PCB being 12V battery for LED memory, 12V ign, 12V lights off dash so should dim if LEDs dim ! earth is on long wire to body..

green plugs are near the ECU if you have fuel injection of eithe spfi or mpfi, and they are used in conjunction with diagnostics and timing. Search it or refer to manuals. Question for crazy8's on the set to 28 Degrees. This is setting with green plugs connected yeah? So this is just a base timing for the computer and once set, plugs disconnected ECU takes over what is the timing seen at idle of 750 - 800 rpm - surely not the 20 or 28 you suggest ? Would you also set a non fuelie to same 28? base timing? I have found that the more advance you give to the cams (new belts and/or dizzy adjust) the less willing EA82 will be to rev out, or less GO up there, but pay back more at lower revs with torque. And conversely more retarded the timing the more willingness up higher revs ....

this info above is assuming you stil have 4 stud hubs too. Five stud wold indicate EJ model brakes and pads.....

um? yeah ...not the major cables from the battery. The black wire, with white trace ? on it that is the only wire of its size that goes to the starter motor solenoid male spade terminal and is about 5mm across its total wire plus insulation. I'm not an auto elec and not conversant with gauge measures, can see the mm2 cross section when it is described, but think about it, ned a decent fattish wire to hold the solenoid in while starter is a cranking ....

EA82 mpfi series 1 of 85 and 86 had the unit on top of the thermostat housing on the inlet manifold and sounds like this is what you are after ? It is the fast idle air supply that bypases the throttle body feeding metered air to the cylinders for cold start fast idle. Might actually be called the FICD - fast idle control device. I think EA81T also had this same. Check the hoses for brittleness and soundness, I have replaced with 1/2" heater hose, also bypassed the bypass and not even use it - just needs a bit of play on cold starts like a carby car with a shot choke FICD is more a valve than a sensor, well, it is not a remote sensor for anything, it is all in house in there with just power and earth conns via ECU ? We want pics !! of the whole car and lots of them please

when dash cluster is out just follow from the gauge to the pin via the pcb tracks and maybe lay down a new wire. If you have the fuel/temp combo gauge one has a component in it to reduce Voltage to 7 V for gauge stability -you'll see 7V link between the two in pcb tracks. Maybe check before unplugging to se if 7V is present with engine running first ?

tyres ?

hot wire air flow meter been considered at all ? The ECU will only throw a code if the error is known to the ECU and many situations seem to trick 'em. Fuel pump pressure been tested ? Can get crap in fuel pump esp if you ran it low to suck the crud through, get through filters to injectors - they is something else..... No one is gonna know, only be able to suggest stuff for you to consider

Crazyeights, took you up on that search term - brought me right back here !! I can almost imagine how bad it was to have your hi performance EA81 do that. Am curious what was done to these engines of yours that failed if you can manage it - otherwise, pretend we are your therapists perhaps? Curious to know what sort of duration is on these performo torque grinds. Each of mine were 16/56 56/16 .0235" lift the best all rounder torquie baby solid, the other was, still is 20/60 60/20 0.225" lift. Both cams got a spotty looking coating of something called luberite to assist with bedding in to the reground solids Ignore Miles comment on mickey mouse ear, that is on EA82 oil pump

I have heard of some oils advertised here down under as being recommended for classics , the old tappet engines with pushrods is probably how they are best classified. Valvoline do a XLD 20W50 Classic i think ? Can you actually buy zinc additive or gotta squeeze a bit from your sunscreen ?

Don't scare me ! I love getting little tool package deliveries from the US - (cough* cough *Mark !! ) quality tools at junk prices. Compare a Lisle trim tool here A$35, in the US - under A$10! I find Taiwanese tools are of great quality much the same as US made. We have some very ,imited tool manufacturing here in Australia now - stil see Australian made combination pliers - Crescent branded of all things, just their other plier range are not made here. Don't forget though some plastics are pretty tough - try taking a sledge hammer to some plastic bumper bars. I guess you get the store owner to drop the ratchet on concrete floor, see if the switch stays intact after a 100 throws A guy I have bought a few car bits and one car off , had a few break ins over the years...came in to find someone had gone through all his tools finding his made in India, made in China on the floor

often find it is not the threaded part seized that cause bolt to break - more the unthreaded shank corroded in the manifold shaft, head breaks off and left with decent shaft to grab. There are a few different stud removing tools worth trying. Google stud removing tools and if you see one looks like a big chrome cylindrical lump, a knurled wheel mounted within and a 1/2" socket drive - that's what you will want.You may save the thread

I have seen a few mechanics chasing weird engine reliability symptoms on Euro modern cars , that all it was - weird old battery, maybe with a dead cell etc

swap the battery ? That is the bucket that the alt is supposed to be filling.....

thornleyjacob, that is one sexy colour for a BRAT ! Have you got pics to share ? Seeing two thermal tricks in here for bearings Bestcar/onlycar put his bearings in the freezer, Willy heats his up with success thinking of the inner hole of the bearing in this application it looks like even though metal expands with heat the hole does get bigger. The metal expands is not swelling the same so therefore reduce the ID of the hole ? Or is it that as it heats up and expands, the circumference increases allowing ID to increase ? Boggles the mind eh ? I guess Willy has to let bearings cool before going in the housing ....er, whoa...Willy says he heats the bearings, but also says he sticks bearings in overnight in freezer. Is it grease bearings, freeze overnight to install barings in housing, then once them is in, heat to 120C to slide axle shaft through ?

the best way to clean the sealant groove of the face of the cam carrier housing to cylinder head face is to soak the face in a small puddle of degreaser in a flat baking tray. Leave overnight and it softens it, shrivels it, comes out so much easier.

someone might be able to say whether you need to interrogate the ECU first, by way of the procedure of whatever it is with those green diagnostic connectors connected. Or maybe if the dash check engine light flashes or lights up - maybe the ECU is ready to give code for any error. Usually if there is no blink LED means all is OK WITH THE COMPONENTS ECU TALKS TO, but surely no blink LED is sure sign ECU is healthy the blinkng LED circuit might have stopped working too !

+1 on spark plug. You might wanna bust the ceramic in a safe work practice and weld the hole up. Or get another coil and lead

I recall power eadings on the coil of my Series 1 EA82 T mpfi coil which is a bit different to yours but, the readings were positive power both sides of about 12V with IGN ON, not while running. Your last statement needs rewriting with maybe some punctuation or more words for me to understand what you asking pics say a 1000 words sometimes.....

Fix it proper is best. I am a convert, not to any engine leak fixer - just the little black block Can't wait to find a buttermilk bargain and try it again By proper fix I mean don't let your mechanic skimp coz he wants to keep repair bill as cheap as he quoted. An EA82T this age - age, not the number of low miles - may need new metal hoses to and from turbo, banjo bolts on turbo, banjo bolt into underside of turbo side head for coolant to/from turbo. A new oil resistant 5/8" ? hose about 120mm long for the turbo oil drain back. I have used silicone 1/2" hose with Gates hose bender coil for longevity over genuine rubber coolant hose from head to turbo underneath. The inlet manifold has a few cooant passage gaskets at the back water transfer that could do with replacement to be on safe side - so too the few tiny freeze/welch plugs at the back of it once water transfer is off. Ask to see all the coolant hose connection points to ensure corrosion is not set in - best time to replace !

nearing 16 years and the lack of power can be altered a bit or a lot, your wallet will have same variable deminishing effect depending on how much power you want. They only have one cam, eight valves and 1.8 litres of 1970's technology ! Pump the tyres can be cheapest, then service and tune it checking timing marks as engine increases revs to ensure distributor working correctly. A new clutch and cable might make a difference. Willy Fisterbottom paid some finer detailed attention to jetting his hitachi, fitted an unequal length header Y pipe exhaust and has a screamer EA81 to be green with envy about. A full rebuild has always been my trick with a cam grind to suit. Newer learnings is EJ20 pistons or spfi will boost power a bit too Currently run an EA82 OHC with matching 5 speed DR 4WD box, turbo cams and heads - just no turbo . It is not always as quick as I'd like but can surprise me sometimes. It is more a flatter torque run on it and able to haul a 300kg trailer up long hill runs at 100kph in 4th