jono

i got mine 491237401 from the Subaru dealer, who in turn got them ex Japan for me, so got two and they are called a "packing"

Quite a few Japanese cars of this era end up needing a relay added to the starters circuit to take the load off the ignition switch - gives these sort of symptoms sometimes. Wire , single black from IGN to startr solenoid, pull off attach to 86 of a relay, 85 to earth. Fused 12V from battery pos goes to 30, then a fattish wire from 87 goes to the terminal you pulled single black wire off solenoid Check the Fusible Links, under plastic cover follow pos lead from battery six inches, give intermittent crap at this age too

do you guys have and know about the little black blocks , sold here as sealwel? Sourced from the USA ,about a half inch square, inch long, smells soapy, break it up and shove it in the cooling system and run engine at operating temp. If is going to work and be quite a perment seal of coolant into other chambers, will do so in 15 to 20 mins. I had a suspected HG, so, both off and serviced, new genuine HG's and still had a steam engine. A chat with machine shop resulted in one of the miracle blocks, instructions to drive above normal op temp - nearly 60,000km or more ago. Suspect it was the turbo leaking. A most recent case of buttermilk in an AWD E4AT turbo XT found a new lease on life just two weeks ago. No more tears for a while at least http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SEALWEL-COOLING-SYSTEM-SEALER-CLEANER-SEALS-RADIATORS-HEADS-GASKETS-28xCUBES-/291187997179?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43cc2839fb and get yourself one of these lifesavers http://enginewatchdog.com/tm2.html You get used to seeing what temps engine works in, in traffic, up hills, cruising, different seasons. I noticed mine was 5 C warmer and found I'd lost half a litre of coolant - that was the turbo above I think, just starting to lose water. Saved the engine

Tweety might think a useful link in here would also be the convert from spfi to Weber carb to rid the car of gremlins

Ive been wondering for too long now about how a turbo EA82 seems to run quite well before any boost comes on. This sort of leads to thinking how a turbo block or pistons anyway would run in NA form. Ford once gave us optional low compression I6 engines, only ever seen one so could not have been much sought after, but they were suitable for lower octane fuel. Has anyone decommisioned the turbo on an EA82T and ran it NA ?

well, the orange one would have the turbo to drive the alternator , yeah ?

it is a cable set up and clever the way it works, as it passes by the fuel filler door release on its way the trunk latch. My fuel fill door stopped responding years ago, so it was always an inside the trunk trim to plick it with my finger

how did it blow, I mean, what has it done ? There are retorque HG after fitting new HG's which is a fit HG's, assemble, run to op temp and let cool overnight, then retorque. The other retorque is the service interval retorque that some manufacturers suggest being done through the life of the engine.Unsure if Subaru make suggestion for this ...

You don't remove cam housings to retorque EA82 head bolts do you ? I don't. I have a ground down socket to help do the job of a specific Subaru tool that would be nice if was remade and available though, Same guy that tells me never back off bolts also claims 1 torque type gaskets still need retorque in his opinion.......

used various 15W40 (shell, valvoline, nulon etc) for the HVLA's in EA82T for years now ranging from minus 7C to plus 40C whereas my EA81 20W50 15 years Valvoline XLD old adjustable tappets and thicker oil is my theory

factory manuals say to back off and oil threads on initial retorque of new gaskets after warm up, done that and wish not. Trusted machine shop guy says just keep tightening if it takes it - NEVER undo, never reoil threads - asking for trouble

Did it fix your problem ? U can substitute these old style with new style plastic box like FLs, known as FFL Female Fusible Links and believe it or not, never give trouble. BIG but is not being swapped for like colour, more , started with OK say black original - look at black plastic FFL and it is 80A - halve 80 and fit a 40 in the place of the fabric covered black one. Keep following the colour swap to FFL rating, halve the number, choose the FFL in plastic of the half value. Some light reading here http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18205&highlight=style+fusible+links

what do you use to pop th fuel filler door ? I have sorry, had, cable release from that lever, pull up for boot release, push down for fuel filler door 2x 85 GLTA's and Vortex same...

sorry, my bad, reading and posting when I should be asleep most likely. Was trying to answer #6. really trying to say why didn't you say so ? There is a certain process that needs to be followed, and if you have it all back together and just need to fit the dizzy to complete engine assembly ? yeah ? Better let someone else take over here if this is the case. My foolproof method was for Series one. Series 2 with optical - I marked everything on pull down, noting which cyl was on TDC - can tell by looking at both cam wheels and their locating pins? holes and marks - always opposite each other. Dizzy needs to land in centrally between lock down bolts and here where I get stuck coz I misplaced my notes. But, take a squiz at the dizzy, really can only go in one way, and you want it to end up pretty equally central between the lock down bolts. Just sample it first, see which way and by how much the rotor turns as you seat the dizzy. I visualise the 1 i penned inside the dizzy on the metal plate disc below rotor button. If you stand at front bumper, look at dizzy, #1 is about between 1 and 2 o'clock 1 may be on dizzy cap casting I move crank from #1 TDC to the 20 DBTDC mark, make dizzy rotor point just before at caps #1 spot, spins anti clock. Then it might just start

''setting the cam shaft is at the belt install stage. The cam and its belt sprocket have a mating pin that lines them up - fool proof at this point, then you need to check reference points of TDC on flywheel with where rotor in dizzy points with other reference marks on belt puleys and all in relation to #1 being at TDC. The dizzy might be out 180 deg after timing belt install

I've used several brands and find the genuines are worth the extra you might pay. On retorque after first warm up cool down - they have never taken any more ft lbs. Just look and feel like quality too! There are many that say one torque type gaskets still need to be retorqued - heard this from a 50 year machine shop veteran too ! I skimped on genuine with recent EA81 and used Japanese sourced Payen by Federal Mogul and the retension was surprisingly much the same as genuines on recheck. Never loosen headbolts off and oil threads as factory manuals say - is what my veteran tells me - asks to fail. I am currently running carb EA82 with turbo heads , cams and inlet tract - intending to try turbo one day but hear from trusted source that high comp an turbo boxer is not for longevity

I'm wondering if it is trick photography , or do I see reflections on your honed bores ? Would thought hone marks would not reflect an image so good. Looks a bit shiney in there and, just checking, you have a new OP switch don't you ?

just go, and send us a postcard.

82 wagon, might have fuel pump up front? and only one fuel filter. Brumby BRATs had extra fuel filter at the rear. It could be a number of things, divide symptoms along fuel or spark. Points system or EI module in it now ? Points condensor can crap out, usually not this way though, modules can and have done similar with me twice now How long have you owned it and what have you done since in way of service (replacing consumables) and repair? Could it be crusty crap in coil tower, dizzy cap - coil can crap out similarly. Fuel lines themselves can crud out internally too and a good draining and blow through can help. Run some fuel cleaner first for a tank before replacing fuel filters for best effects.

go custom made. but you may need to tell the maker what you no tell us - what are you doing with std to fry it ?

trying to answer in fewer words than you used to ask. each 225mm clutch will interchange but wont work http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147445-clutch-problems-ea81-1985-brat/

the engine stay rod bracket that fits between engine and firewall - on EA81's they can come adrift from the firewall causing this problem. Check to see it is still soild. Can be welded back in place. Pedal boxes also get a bit weak and flex losing pedal advantage

two breathers eh? While engines have had breathers, there has always been some sort of direction for fumes to take. Look at arrows on manuals, suggests filtered air is drawn into crank case one side, drawn out other and into PCV. But while boosting this aint gonna happen is it? Turbo EA82s I have are 130 as stated in manual for it, and second gen EA82 T has 150. I reckon these old crank cases could do with an external PCV vent off independent of the manifold PCV jsyt in case BUT they already have this path but not in your bare bones systemn ? The gen1 EA82T had a breather hook up after the flapper AFM so this woulda handled fumes building up in crankcase during boost.

Thanks naru, for the links contained within - parts and service manuals for a range of Subes for anyone else reading.. Think I worked out yesterday that these EA81s not being OHC, there is no oil pressure in the head to be able to tap into - as the rockers get there oil via lifter tubes ?Now not so sure, better go download some MB above Oh, must wait for Win7 or vista to come by ....

what ? no one seen or owned/worked on an EA81T enough to tell me ?