jono

unlss your neighbours cat takes a snooze in the engine bay for some warmth

yeah, was just coming in to say I associate yellow wire with negative on Subaru coils, and tacho comes of other side ? I think

Much the same as dropping any EA82 into the GEN2 to make it physically fit For standard height cars, if lifted, think this causes problems for engine to chassis rail clearances. I made the engine cross member slots longer for where the engine mount studs drop through. When dropping in the engine mount bolts are to be left about 5mm loose not done up so mount studs dangle closer to each other for easy fitment. I also went EA82 5 speed and the clutch, so also needed the clutch pedal at least from EA82 and the cable. Some also fit in the EA82 pedal box For EA82T you most likely need the EA81T cross member or do a cut and weld job on existing engine x member for the turbo up pipe to clear nicely. It might fit against xmem if you don't. I fully intend EA82T in my Brumby some time soon. Got the engine and fuel system sorted, just waiting for things to happen

Was gonna say similar, and have seen a nicely and uniquely bent con rod from a twin carb Mazda 323 of the late 70's early 80's after it went through a water crossing, sputtered, sorted itself out, just didn't run right after. No breakages, just an altered stroke in one pot

Well done, you nearly stole it !

Found an old print ad for the EA71 Subes of the 70's making claim it had the SEEC-T engine. Any idea what it is/was ?

yeah, your picture - lets call each of three pipes on the solenoid a port? the hose still fitted in pic? - the empty end goes where this next few lines takes it- "The straight line "port" on device all on its own goes or rather comes from the turbo alloy housing just in front where outlet hose for compressed air comes out of turbo, It has a small inline valve for either restriction or flow direction". Fit that and you have two hoses to find and fit at the other end. The port coming off at right angels to the other two ports, one you have just found a connectuion for abovee?? Sorry, just read that - needs rewriting ... At the other end where you see two ports to the solenoid, one is straight out, the other goes off at right angels, 90 degrees - OK, got it ? The straight out is really a vent off or bleed off from the solenoid so this connects to the intake rubber boot after the afm, somewhere near where the PVC hose fits up. It also has a T in this line, close to where you hook it into the rubber intake boot. Maybe for this stage forget the T in line and just connect it to the boot ? into a metal tube coming off inlet manifold tree of tubes, comes around corner and its end points right at turbo

the whole point of warning not to pay too much is there for the member buying benefit, not the benefit of non member trying to sell something that is likely in their way, something they have not fixed, cannot fix and they have the advantage of knowing just how much was wrong with it when they stopped spending money on it, or forgotten. And don't go fixing it on their place before agreeing and paying for it - some might take it off the market or bump the price ! Mine came with purchase receipts as used $6,990 and at least $3k of receipts for work and stuff done, put onto it, plus a second hand engine with a warranty tab - all this and they covered 30,000km in their ownership. I scored it for price of new tarp and another tailgate if I could find one, still think paid too much for it, and owner was happy for the space and shelter for their family car I pulled heads off an EA81 that sat at least 9 years, and longer since it was from a wrecker before that. Inside the coolant passages, everywhere was a greenish lump of crystalised coolant and block linings - found a hole the size of half a Jimmy Carter special corroding away on face of head. All rubber grease boots rot out on ball joints and tie rods, steering racks and CV's too if unlucky after many years of sitting about.. Rear shocks and front struts tend to flog out just sitting about too .. . Or have you bought it now ?? Oh yeah, warning, warning - guess why I have the heads off my EA8189 Brumby - I tried to start it on the fuel in the tank, turn it over on the oil in the sump. Drained the fuel, used 90 psi to blow the crud off the filter mesh inside the tank at the pick up, fresh fuel, no oil change, finally got it running, parked it five months to find at least two inlet valves gunked up tight on me, causing pushrods to bend rear most inlet valves either side. This black stuff all over valve guide was sticky tar like, said to be from old oil - yet still stunk of stale fuel. heads off, faced on 240 emery paper on 6mm glass to perfectin thanks to the thread instruction on this site, valves been popped out, cleaned up and lubed with vaseline, reassembled and almost ready to start Inside the tank - barnacle encrusted brown crud, black crud everywhere - needs acid wash, carb soda neutralise at least before putting into service, I think fresh fuel might dissolce some tar gunks and continue to contaminate fuel. By now, besides why it stopped in fitrt place you might find corrosion in electrical connections and FL's

believe a seller about why a car won't run ? If only it wasn't a BRAT, makes it almost worthless. You can't test drive to find, shagged wheel bearings, shaggd uni joints, shagged clutch, shagged gearbox,shagged ngine,shagged cooling, shagged electrical. I don't know how many cars I have bought where owners vagueness was not due to some hidden problem when not test driveable,not. The only unseen in person car I bought, all photosmissed the hood lining drooping down. Lucky a few old door card clips fixed that in a jiffy

uhuh... E10 is the other fuel available. We also had Tx until the customs and tax guys worked out it was being added to fuel somewhere along the supply chain - I think it was toluene that had no taxes on it, so they taxed it and addition stopped. Some people found paint stripping after a fill spill - we don't have your vapour catchment system on the nozzles either, and I still suspect tanks have breathers sneaking up to vent in the big sign posts E85 is also at select sites for some of our locally made cars. Touring car sedan races use E85 and a lot of it too !

I could only find genuine valve springs for EA82

our pricing is based on Singapore fuel prices - each year we have fewer refineries, not sure where our crude comes from. Our gallon is 4.546 litres ! 98 octane was 1.70 last night, my EA82T returned 7.8 litres per 100km on it, highway use, 95 gave 10 our dollar was buying 94c US last night, used to be dollar buy 50c US some years back, 8 months ago almost 110c ! minimum wage is about A$13 an hour

Thought to post in here as current with discussion on timing and fuel ratings on EA82. Feel free to contribute I am yet to snap one of a 98 bowser So, here is one close up of a bowser offering 91 and 95 RON liquids in eastern Australia June 2014 and the prices to go with it

I reckon they have a pretty good service too. I have never had new lifters to compare. At 9000km of 15W40 no oil change on cleaned out engine, new mizpah recos fitted, 8 deg C overnight says the engine temp digi gauge and I started to get a tick for first starts and first 100metres or so. Oil change made no change to characteristics. Maybe an oil cleaner before next change, and 10W40 to help ??

oh, don't confuse the yellow wire of the oil warning light switch with yellow of the ignition side of things at coil. Coloured traces help separate these ID issues, and would say the black and yellow paired wires at coil in their own sheath below together. The oil pressure switch wire, might be yellow with red trace, in its own sleeve that goes adrk with age, heat (or worse - I set fire to mine - engine running as I sprayed degreaser, then had fast drive to car wash who did not approve other degreasers, bonnet up, fire burnt itself out, dizy cap reshaped self but still worked, wires singed) oil pressure switch and eng temp switch are usually in a shared loom with any wires for carby

consider it bumped ....no one has mentioned what I found - non turbo EA82s have a 5500 redline start on their tacho, turbos have 6500. My combo is EA82 carb block, mpfi heads and intake sniffing LPG through IMPCO 125 mixer. Timing was about 16 deg BTDC an is now set at 22. Just getting used to the 22 setting and words below apply to 16. With 22 it is a bit peppier down low and not as willing or need to rev high as before. Before, the max for 2nd gear of EA82 5 speed 4WD DR box was 80kph, prefers a shift into third at 60 ! also found that due to used belts in place on my construction found things really got underway just above 4000rpm, then when installed new timing belts etc (tensioners,idler) that zip came about 500 rpm earlier. Prior to belt renewal I did some testing with an EA82 tacho bare, stuck to my Brumby steering column, power by cig lighter socket/plug and hoked to the coil. Uphills with 300kg of trailer 100kph, third gear , 5000rpm held the hills. Moral seems to be things can depend on your tuen, timing belt slack, fuel, altitude (600m) etc

which is why I suspect when US guys say they set it to 20, it is just a reference for ECU to know where to go from there. So, my post probably only applies to non mpfi/spfi, yet, i suppose if those were also n propane, the base setting would just get a bigger number to start with and go from there. I'm still thinking about using the series 1 dizzy, coil, knock sensor and knock box and winding things up a bit more , let the knockbox do its job No green connectors - simple - old skool octane ratings between us and aus are different am sure our regular is 91 RON, then maybe some had 92 but 95 was then considered a premium PULP, sort of gone by wayside at SHELL who now only have 98 Premium, may have at rare times had 100 RON. Propane butane mix for road not bbq was at 109RON, rumoure to have dropped a bit. Is quieter at 22 degrees

22 dbtdc at 800rpm idle, vac advance disconnected and plugged to time it. Bit peppier down low

for the 87.5 spider turbo ..... the T off the device (mine has same red part number label)goes to the wastegate diaphragm, so this is the bit that is off to right angles where the other two go through device in a straight line OK ?? The straight line on device all on its own goes or rather comes from the turbo alloy housing just in front where outlet hose for compressed air comes out of turbo, It has a small inline valve for either restriction or flow direction. The other end, closer to the T off is like a vent outlet and ends up witha T fitting and goes to intake boot, the other end of that T ties into a metal tube coming off inlet manifold tree of tubes, comes around corner and its end points right at turbo

OK, took some thought where to best affordably source a pane of glass (long a sound , like glarce) and went to the dump shop, left a poor condition cane coffee table settee sans glass top and paid $4 for 6mm thick 2.5' x 1.5' ready for some backing form ply. Expensive bit was $15 for contact spray adhesive, and 1.98 for 220 grade sheet of paper wet n dry Alternative cost was quoted A$80 each head just for surface grind, not even a compression hike shave !! next sheet needed, found i was paying for convenience or quality at first place for sheet wet n dry. Picked up some flexovit metal grade 240 think it may be more robust or do faster job ? Or faster to muck up ! the first head is as true as both sides of the straight edge

thanks Mr Jesz, but is one of us misunderstanding the mpfi 20 degree setting ? Is it not the mpfi gets set at 20 with some plugs jumpered and that once set the ecu takes over and if checked with a timing light will not actually be at 20 at idle once ecu has control ?? And the difference between mpfi and carb is a vac can at least and internal mechanisms for advance. OK, call me lazy or weak, I'd betteer try 20 now

Just checked the ignition timng on my EA82M which is a bit different. Runs carb block, mpfi heads and intake to ease a propane only fuel set up. Not sure what I timed it at on install, but have since done belts and just driven it. I sort of cringe when people say thy have set timing to yet omit the speed at which set, so .... @750 - idles too slow @ 800 rpm is just right when at op temp 92C when 1 fan cut in, down to 72 when it switched off by the TFS132 switch Saw 18 DBTDC, until I disconnected and plugged vac port to dizzy, so once speed altered again with air bleed adjust on mpfi throttle body I got it at just under 16 DBTDC @ 800rpm. I read some have set their EA82 to 20 deg, but think that is your baseline with mpfi set ups ? I reckon if i advance things anymore, i am probably going to have to drop it again when towing or summer hills come along again. Will just leave it me thinks, getting good fuel economy, drive feels OK, just got no wheel chirp on take off

mine was direct on 85,86. 87 models got solenoids etc to interfere orcontrol things better

I don't wanna sound harsh , but - little wonder no help offered. If you have non factory wiring and don't know where it goes or what it does you have fat chance of anyone else being able to tell from a photo collection. You neeed to follow those non factory wires with dodgy looking connectors to see where they go. Agree with above ++! Wires go nowhere, mark, catalogue and remove. That metal box with blue factory round multi connector has to be mounted in some way to the car until skyhooks become in wider use, doesn;t mean the workings of the electrics inside are earthed to the body by those mounting bolts. Not seen one of those on 84 model, nor have i seen a fuse box with glass fuses xcept on older Japanese models. 1981 and EA81 - is it same as 83 and 84 EA81 series bodies, not seen that early with factory elec ign dizzy, but yellow wire of coil is at neg post anyway. I love how someone goes to sell a car, claims just needs new coil - wouldn't it sell easier and better if they just got it what it needed ? That yellow wire that you say earths at front of engine block ...got a red tracer colour ? An insulator sheath that was likely clear when new, gone yellow with age ? That looks like it is the oil pressure switch wire for the oil warning light in the dash. If it is earthed and everything else is connec ted correctly should get a red light on dash with ignition or engine on. It should be connected to an oil pressure light sender unit on the oil pump below crank pulley. Fit a new switch for reliability.

is this the same vehicle you have lots of posts on ?? My 85 EA82T boost light came on about 2500rpm, but only when conditions were right - a vacuum/boost gauge really helps to drive a turbo by. Should feel the power (be careful ) about 2500 up to about 4000 on most EA82T. Only when something was wrong with my blow of valve install did I only feel power starting at 4000rpm - hated it, nasty slap in the back and 1500rpm too late, snails were sniggering at me