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84 Brumby got plain old oil change as per evertime od hits another 10,000km, last one indicated 360,000, this one 370.000. Amazed as this speedo unit is the fourth one I have installed in fifteen years and it still counts, though nedle guts or cable needs a lube - getting wavering. Valvoline 15W40 Engine Armour of the like, and must do filter included. Oil looked a bit dirtier than I expected out of the cleaned out internals EA82. The engine Y pipe metal screws got a new lease of life on the double walled pipe, bigger thread size this time.

it is a shame society is like that, in not being able to leave a break down for fear of its safety. Wonder how far back this fear has needed to exist? Did our forebears fear this with their horse and buggy if something crapped out, or could they just leave the 'vehicle' for a few days until a new part been made , scrounged or ordered ?

have you got to the inhibitor switch wiring yet, so you can start it ? The loom along from the dash to the auto shifter, think it is the black cable in and out yellow stripe, just needs jumpering. I used the shifter side of the plug pair, reefed the pins out an chucked in a thicker to match wire as a loop, plugged back in.

I did a write up years ago, when you need it by ? Few tricks. The grille removal to access the top three M6 bolts, I then drilled 1" homles for them, rubber bung plugged for next time 1/4" sockets are excellent, all sorts of the drivers to reach and undo with screen in. The centre piece in Oz delivered has hot/cold and fan switches, plus selector, plus fresh or recylce air. It can remain in place just by juggling it in through its hole through dash and leave it hang thre. Quite a few wire ties along the inside for loom stuff. Drop steering column and is easier without wheel, just beware any airbags actually I recall undoing splined knuckle under bonnet and pulling whole column out, no chest injuries then, more room!

the first of the two pics is your temperature gauge sender unit - try disconnecting it and see no result or change on the gauge on dash the second pic is the controller for afm metered air to bypass the throttle body butterfly for a faster idle. I think it uses the heat from the thermostat housing to regulate it. The next gen vrsion of this unit was remote, not on any heat device, think it was a timer system - seen on spider manifold EA82's It may not be the sensors themselves that cause the error codes. It may be corrosion of wires in connector plugs or a bad earth on inlet manifold. The the black earth wires with brass eye behind the throttle body..

post#12 http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24716&highlight=wire+EA82+mpfi&page=2 has direct copy and paste from a recent post in here, linked from a link in a post from last few days on the spider on an 85 turbo ....problems etc

leads out by 90 degrees on the cap ?

Just last few weeks sorted my EA81 driver door from being an extra reason to take it off the road and put out to pasture. Only due to fact window seized up and quickly did I do anything. It was the firt of many times I acyually did not min working with the window and its manual winder mechanism . I scored another door, used its mechanism and the guide that slides in the fronter guide channel - for MY EA81's it is part number 762243030 and about 13 bucks in Oz. For the rear guide channel, looking at the two wheel rollers, one is a fixed axle, the lower one, so no idea why it is round, other than cost saving measure. The upper of the lower guides, white nylon wheel is on an axle and it slides back and forth. Lubed it up, sprayed lanotec on channel insies, and window is like new !! A82 may use similar channel nylon guide

the relays are same as headlight ones as well, could try interchanging to see, mark which was which though. Look at gen relay, they have a pair of copper male spades, and a pair of brass male spade terminals. Study the top of relay for its one way up shape, study printed sketch on side of relay to see orientation, the lighter duty switching coil side of the relay uses the two brass coloured spades which is diagramed on side of relay as well, looks like an Evil Knievel launch pad, jump and landing, the heavy power for the pump is carried into one copper spade and out of the other once 12V is energised across the two brass spades. The jump is path of power being switched, is there a curly diagram as well ?? that is the switching coil, does nothing but create path for heavy power. Which is why four wires. So, with the relay can be rigged so you extend wires to be able to jumper the two brass with 12V = and 12V neg, shoul trigger the heavy side to power up, if you get me ?? Extra fuses are great for beginners like self, add one to your jumper wires in case !! No idle mixture adjustment as such, that is the O2 sensor when it is at op temp, it controls the ECU controlling time fuel squirters are on ...

I have an EA82 radiator in my 84 Brumby, but also have EA82 engine. I have spaced the top of the rad towards the engine, using hoses in happy place to govern just where rad should sit forward at top. The major differences are (as far as the stuff we got) single core EA82, twin core EA81 EA81 body has locating pins coming up from chassis rail below radiator EA82 rad has the lcating pins and rubbers on radiator pointing down to locate in mounting brackets with holes To make mine fit, I reduced height of EA81 body mounted rad locating pins, instead of complete removal in case ever need to fit EA81 rad back in. Salvaged the holey brackets with locating holes off the EA81 radiator bottom bracket and riveted them to the chassis rail below. The EA82 radiator and its mounting pins and brackets now sit in these roveted in place brackets. Hoses are another different thing to play with. You will likely find EA81 top rad hose fits up nice to EA82 rad, but bottom hose you may need to sort out, join two odd hoses together. Then, the two holes up top on body, don't line up with EA82 rads top mounting bolts. I redrilled the radiator top frame to suit my spacer bracket.

Agreed, those diagrams are fantastic ! I can now see the altitude wire from kcm to ecu not in my 85,86 manuals - yet I hav a US kcm to use one day, so this diagram is of use to me too. Thanks It is funny you mention loose dipstick or oil cap affecting operation, as when we first got efi on common old Fords as an option for starter on the 4.1 I6's word was if you left one out, off or even the fuel cap - would not run - never saw it though ? Mos EA82's I have got came with near clogged PCV hoses and vents, might have contributed to health issues of non going engines, always cleaned up before ever running them, so again, never saw results of clogged PCV. I have done though 2 so far EA82T and NA, with each rocker cover vent fed off to the air filter boxes, separately, without considering one should be in the draw through position (closer to outlet to engine side of things) more than the other, and never had any issues. I was suggesting, just forgot to say, I think a spark plug fits in PCV valve hole, surely that will block things off and not allow any PCV issues to upset the running of the engine ?? Nice pics by the way. Just can't help notice less cluttered hoses on the passenger side back corner of the spider body. Mine's a bastard and the plastic elbow seen further away is really tucked up close on mine. And TPS - you are saying the TPS unit on side of TB is the 3 pluggers TPS adapted to fit the spider TB ? Or you have complete 3 plug TB and TPS adapted to the spider body ? I have a spider that has a throttle body and TPS adapted to it I think, given the surgery on the wires and resulting dodgy looking finish. If I can find it, I'll have a look see what wires joining what wires if need be

You got a fuel tank, surely you gotta start with a charcoal canister to deal with the line from the tank to the char can and the fuel smells. If you see two ported vacuum ports on TB, the one that is on same side of throttle body as cannister, supplied the cannister, but if flipped the TB to fit spider, it is other side Miles has already said this next bit, so excuse me for repeating it Take yourselves back to the sixties with the engine , plug off unnecessary vacuum sources, PCV valve, shove small filters on rocker covers breather vents, block off EGR, vac advance to dizzy not needed entirely, just ensure you have vac booster for brakes and vac for FPR. edit, sounds like this has already happened .... "What i need to know between the disty, recirc valve, and cabin vacuum, is which goes to ported vacuum, which to manifold vacuum, and were should check valves be in between." recirc valve - EGR valve gets manifold vacuum via a solenoid which is switched by the ECU - generally only operates between 2 and 10 in Hg , supposed to be also only at op temp and below 45kph. Mine ran all the time, no matter what temp or speed. If it had 2 - 10 in Hg vacuum, it opened. Cabin vacuum must be last on your list? Does not affect GO factor ? What is your idea of what a check valve is ? A one way valve ? Or restriction orifice to soften the vacuum source ? Add one system at a time and ensure she runs right after each addition. Surely if you start with original 3 plug ? ECU and all its mates, flapper afm, same throttle body just adapted to fit the spider, same dizzy (wil still run even with knock moule disconnected) same coil to match - did not have the transistor mounted coils of 87 onwards mpfi on 3 plug ECU, timing set right for upped comp raTIO - about 10 BTDC worked in southern hemisphere on carb block with turbo. What sort of cranking pressure you got in the pots? It has knock sensor control which will pull timing back - this can be monitored at least on 85.86 sedans ( don't think I found it on my 86 build EA82T XT ?? ) where a white plastic connector, female spade sitting minding its own busineess near the coil. Must be another check plug terminal to get this reading, monitor that it has 5V on start up, settle to 1.7V running, if it ramps up to anything above 1.7 towards 4.5V max it is retarding the timing, and you can see that on the flywheel. If you running carb or spfi compression with nice turbo maybe you are getting knock, or is knock sensor too sensitive , operating correctly ??

EGT climbs high, and you suspect ... I am confused falls flat on boost, which is essentially accelerating , yeah ? fueling on acceleartion or over fueling, or under fueling, what do you mean by fueling ? overfueling would help lower EGT ? I is the exact opposite with LPropaneG and Diesel fuels though fuel pressure reg, where's it get its vacuum source ? Coz, you know, my original fuel pump on my 85 turbo would survive idle, stationary revving, take off, but as soon as boost was asked of it I saw pressure gauge Teed into the line, strapped onto windscren, would then drop from mid 30's to 10 psi. New pump fixed that, so is your prob coincidental in that as son as you swap manifold pump gets ill ? ? Have you also tested fuel pressures on road? Also curious to know what you expect in power.torque etc from the manifold swap once sorted ? "where an 87.5 spider has an extra piece for hte distributor vac advance which we do not have." what? what is this extra piece you talk of ? My 87.5 spider does not have any vac advance on distributor at all 85,86 turbo mpfi fuel rail spaghetti includes a metal vacuum transfer tube from the distributor side of front of throttttle body of the two ports - other end is just near dizzy and feeds vac advance cannister. Think I have seen early EA82T XT NA 5Sp manual with two piggy backed vac cans on its dizzy, so suppose it had two metal transfer tubes from two different vacuum sources ?

OK, surely the pics of those two solenoids are same as my 85'86 Series 1 turbo. My 85, just before I dismantled, I disconnected, believe now, for I left it to my memory, with top one disconncted, the boost light in dash still worked. So, I think the bottom one is for bost light in dash, and top one must be ECU overboost protection solenoid. Again, from memory, both of these were connected vacuum wise with a T junction nearby and a further junction where one end, yes, went to the cylindrical gadget plastic up on RHD drivers side strut tower to firewall space. Cylinder has two hose ports , labeled 1 and 2. The vac supply for all this and more - vacuum controls in dash - came directly from intake manifold, near RHD brake booster vacuum port with T junction goin' off to the solenoids in ya picture easy

hold the bus ! What about a carb block not having the rear turbo side breather for PCV, at the back of the mpfi blocks behind the flywheel is a baffled plate that leads up to the top of the block with its outlet near the knock sensors threaded hole? Carb blocks generally did not have the whole extra passage did they ?

I can see in my minds eye these little IHI turbos already off an EA82T with its wastegate vacuum/pressure line self contained sort of thing ? Goes from an outlet on the turbo to the waste gate levers diaphragm - yeah ? That is a factory non valve adjuster in the mix .....

it's not back ...screws were starting to loosen off their hold tension on inner pipe. A retension and some silicon as a fastening device and she's apples again

you won't have the same problems I had with a draw through LPG propane set -up, but idea might be same to chase. I followed manufacturers technical advice for install at first - must be turbo blows through gas carby -undriveable, could only no boost drive around the block and only just make it back in shed. Push it and got backfires blowing off the intake hoses and clamps. Reconfigured things into a draw through carby, then compress fuel air mix. Ooh yeah, that's better - KABOOM. It became driveable to a point, I'd hear a phisshh, noise under bonnet at about 3 psi boost, ask for anymore and I'd get a back fire again, blowing hoses and clamps all over the place. Five months later, chewing fat with gas guru, mention vac advance, boost retard system and wondering if i had trouble with it. Guru says to think about it for a moment, boost pressure is suddenly in all vacuum lines and if a hole anywhere it is gonna leak off. Found hole in the vac advance boost retard diaphragm ! My spare allowed 4psi boost before it too started to phisht and stumble, push it for more beyond that and you'd get a backfire ! A new vac advance boost retard diaphragm ex Japan fixed that - $227 Boost pressured gas vapours and air where getting in around rotor button, catching a spark and igniting, just enough for small explosion to phishht out the dizys breather holes or between cap and dist body

I do mean the gas gauge post. No idea how a turbo feels with no more back pressure than a cat ...may be your problem there ??

oohoo, when I had a fusible link corrode away at the worst moment, voltage spikes killed many circuits including blowing the filament of the indicator bulbs (because I had my hazards on for a moment) I was chasing this buzzing noise in my 85s indicator switch, checking light bulbs, redoing wires bypassing stuff - only to realise the bulbs I was checking in the rear of sedan were actually the reverse bulbs and not the indicator bulbs in the corner (yes, was laying down new wire from switch to the rear bulbs ) , then hard work to get at bulbs in front bumper ....found as I replaced bulbs one by one - all six were gone, the constant buzzing in switch slowed, slowed to a normal tick a tick when last of six bulbs were replaced. The filament had blown and fused to the glass on the inside !

an inline six, known as a red motor in a GM-H sedan, did common old trick of throwing a leg outta bed. I found it ran better after I removed rocker cover to remove overhead push rods & rocker arms for both valves and spark plug of affected cylinder. Fortunately #5 did not punch like they usually do so the starter motor remained useable to get it going and home again. Was only at home a mile away did I realise (by the trail) that it was actually a conrod through the block, so then had to do the run again with another car and some cement dust and sand to soak up the mess

Aha, WOW ! And thanks for coming back in to finish things off, but your other post is with same car, just diiferent symptom ?

if you are led to believe it is as a result of the depth gauge moving - disconnect gauge sender wire at tank sender, see if things change ?

need a slimline fan on water pump side as not the clearance for fat fans. Definitely quieter smoother operation of engine with two elec fans I used the DCSL12 on water pump side. Davies,Craig avail in US ?

part way doing mine now, EA81 in EA81 ute. The longer headbolts from the rocker shaft line up almost with the rubber bung plugs in the chassis rail, plugs inner and outer. You may need to juggle engine or have a friend do so as you guide the bolts through, or even just use the cavity for a thre point turn . Funny enough, Iam waiting on near long forgotten gaskets to shift from WA to come my way...anybody see the good T'subaru ? I dropd exhaust, pulled inlet man bolts to get head off, will need to properly pull inlet off to redo on assembly