jono

My 86 XT had similar headlight squirters with 3/8" supply hoses from the windshield washer bottle. The bumper was not original for the car, so car did not get the double pump washer bottle.

thanks to translate.google..... Thank you friends, for a collection plan to add a boy. And looking in detail at all glass sedan RX - in Russia this car is very rare and I can not buy. Just looking at their cars original exterior mirrors (three sets). My sister lives in California (Los Angeles), if you help me, I can give your phone, it will make the payment and collect items I think we have the idea Looking for windows for the EA81 two door RX 4WD ?

so scoobie..you reckon those pipes packed with asbestos ??

check the bulbs first!

might be just like mine, oil leaking from rocker cover gaskets or that low point of head gasket with the customary oil drizzle over the turbo exhaust that looks like a well baked baking dish finish . You also have an oil supply line for the turbo, its copper washers and lock nut on the banjo. Wow, gen3 heads and you punish self with no working temp gauge !! Get yourself a couple of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Aquarium-/251511389157?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item3a8f3f3be5 working really well in a few of my cars, just add wires, extend the sender wire with basic twin core speaker wire, clamp the sender under something metal on the block...... metal temp unit, not water so you don't have to bust into any water jacket

oh, not sure how true it is, recent car show, someone was talking about Performance closing factory doors and downsizing to smaller on demand or more personalised stuff. No idea how true it is ....

aha, so they are Cheviot mags. Seen them about on an L wagon. Think Cheviot is an Aus/NZ brand ? I don't think you could improve on their looks, just a good clean up, maybe new paint and spit'n'polish Wassort of money ? If not a rood question .....

seeing as though we are getting more dark hours, noticed the interior light was only operating on the passenger door. Armed with a screwdriver, found the EA81's are pull out , soldered up the near broken pos + power wire, (different to EA82? ) insulated it so not to zap against body as it goes back in, and a quick spray of silicone lubricant. 10 minute job if that. Now my ignition switch light-up works as well

word is that to boost an NA Subaru boxer of this era - could be fun for a while, and a lot of that could depend on how good the motor is in the first place. A fella did one down under , set the timing at ten instead of 20 to make up for extra comp. It was later advertised for sale, with a suspected spun bearing. He did report that it was extra torquey down low. I like the idea of the exhaust temp gauge. Must look into this ....

When the apostrophe bandit strikes, things start to read a little different than meant expressed .... " Yeah, even my wife is low slung" comes out when the apostrophe is removed, and words restructured to reflect Might be the answer, sling your Subie lower

I found it necessary to bench bleed a master after a resleeve and rebuild. I got a pair of steel lines from a wreck to screw into the masters ports on my Brumby, added some clear pvc tubing, filled reservoir and made pvc tube ends sit in the fluid and bench bled until all bubbles left the house. Then still needed fingers on port to minimise air again. It was the only way the master was gonna bleed out

Just pay special attention to each rocker anyway. I used grease in car, checked, but did not double check as I did them...needed a tyre lever and luck on my side to get the bugger back in line ! There was a big PHEW! soon after

no side mounted turn indicators ?? Gees, my email has gone off, might have to thin things out a bit. Was thinking A$50 pair plus postage, better check the exchange rate.....I'll find some decent packaging, weigh up and get an idea.Thankfully the $9 anti terrorism fee has been dropped ! Been in http://auspost.com.au/apps/international-parcel.html?searchCriteria.countryCode=US just under A$36 to send the somewhere between 750 - 1000g, with two options of pack and track which has tracking but no signature on delivery or the one below it, same price has signature on delivery, but no tracking !!

I have labelled the pic as i found my long stored parts. Think I am correct. I did read a very long time ago of a fellow who used hydraulic push rods for solid lifters and had a failure. The solids have a marginally larger oiler hole each end, they are also alloy so bend easier ? or harder to bend? than the mild steel ones of the hydraulic. Subaru Australia say that only solids were in engines of vehicles imported for sale here. We got hydraulics in import engines.

ah, clearance lamps you call them ? They have two circuits in ours, a park light and an indicator. Do the US ones have two circuits and just one colour, one very busy circuit ? I have two sets spare

Oh ? I read the thread title as wanting to remove the cam towers first, and that is how I have done it. Also done it on a stand that I had to make up an adaptor, then spun it so gravity was on my side

are these front indicator/parl lights specific to the Australian market or just non US market? I thought I read in here somewhere of a member scoring a pair of these with the raised orange bit

has it dawned on any1 yet ? The question of the original post - the answer is the three lll marks for setting timing belts as it puts the cams in a neutral position so the valve springs don't fight against things and try rotate the engine via the camshaft to crankshaft. I think this one position no turning does it for both sides, just you ned to observe the one rotation to get it right easily on belt install though !

the whole 'get a better engine' thing - I have noted on some stretches of road, up moontains etc that the EA81 twin carbed EA81 is going same speed and op temp as my EA82T with up to 12 psi on tap and same operating temp! Just a little more noise coming from the EA81 Some road stretches both engines were limited and that could just be down to the 8 valve config of the EA Series ? The EA82 is definitely a nicer engine than the EA81 noisewise and power delivery. No doubt the EJ are better again - if not, be a big worry I am hard pressed to see too many other daily drivers out there 30 years and older. Having sourced lotsa different bits based around the 4 stud and EA stuff, I am sticking with it for common parts reasons

Iiiittttt''''sss bbbbaaaccckkkkk !!!!!!!! More screws me thinks

I had similar starting issues with my 84 Brumby. Rather than go test things, I swapped in another starter and a starter relay in casethe 30 year old ignition switch was starting fail intermittently.. There, fixed it I thought...a few days later I found the power cable to starter motor, but at battery end, made difference. I had this problem before, think it was corrosion on the alloy cables, so even though was checked to be tight, and the other hold downs on power were tight....I snipped 10mm off and refitted bare cable under its clamp - all fine now !I am the one who checked battery terminals earlier so blam self.

sounds like you know your stuff....ok so you get a code 2-2 , knock sensor. You should be able to test the KS function using a timing light. Set up timing light, watch the marks on flywheel, then get a 1/2" extension 12" long or so, and give short blow to the block central and see if timing retards on flywheel. I can do this on my 3 plug ECU set up which has a test lead to mnitor the volts out of their separate knock sensor so can also watch 1.7V rise to 4.5V. You may not have the luxury with the 4 plug ECU

ah, ah, the idea of the screws is to draw the inner pipe towards the outr pipe to add some stress or tension to it to keep that rattle at bay. A straight through and across style bolt - besides making it look like Frankenstein would not do the intended job. no one has asked to see the other side of the rims yet ??

".......you guys can even get carbed manifolds for them way easier than us." not so, not in Aus, only got efi here

Wagonist ? Jay ? The EA82 RX rally spec ran different exhaust and ECU, increased boost control from inside cabin from memory and they ran them in low range all the time I think I read. The extra stuff was fitted up by Subaru workshops in Oz. I have the name of a dude who bought one of these hoping to drive it on the roads - roll cage and all - has no compliance plate I hear, so may have been a special import rally beast