jono

after getting a positive click, click from the starter too many times before getting a start, I chucked in the starter from my just picked clean of all goodies EA82 GLTA 4WD sedan, and its starter relay and wiring I made up to take electrical load away from ignition switch circuit. BINGO

sounds electrical of some sort. I think others also thinking that you got a car new to you, save yourself a heap of hassles and give it: a fuel add cleaner treatment before anything, and run it as much as you can to let the cleaner do some work, likely fill the fuel filters front and back with crud. Go buy new spark plugs, new HT spark leads, dizzy cap and rotor, fuel filters air filter and give it an oil and filter change contact points or electronic module in dizzy ? get some spray in its throat type carby cleaner. Then see if your problem is resolved, gets too hard for anyone to remote diagnose your problem correctly. Still problem, come back to this thread and list what you have done and go from there

is everything set as it was on the last engine build ? You most likely know an engine in a vehicle it was designed for likely runs at 10 or 12 DBTDC at 750 - 800 rpm. I have recently comp tested one EA81 at 510,000km and it was all 190 in 3 pots , 180 in the remaining. Another of unknown age was 180 in 3 pots, 170 in other both were idlers about 750 rpm An EA82 I have just built up not touching short motor returned 20 psi less on one pot than the other three, 185, 165 - it still idles fine. Have you tried an AFR meter on it to see if it can guide you somewhere further ? Seize mid air ?? Ever seen the watchdog TM2 or TM4 from the Signals people in Brisbane? Helps avoid some overheats. You've obviously run the twins before and theyve been fine ? Do you know whose kit went through them ? Fuel miser ? And that each gasket was replaced with one like for like, and not a mix up. Never had any trouble with my twins, never thought to shut one down either, but when you did - how ? Shut of its fuel supply as well as block its nose ? Can still draw air in through fuel jets once bowl is emptied, via chamber vent, no, you blocked off at the top . Is it a std EA81 with the twins or a true EA81S with intakes at the centre of the head rather than intake valve at each end of th heads? Some may also ask if it is solid or hydraulic lifters as all Oz delivered were solids, imported used engines scored hydraulic. Did it feel right in the begining since the build ? Nice and tight and torquey ? Talk to engine builder ? Did balancing the twins make a difference ? Thought balancing was really for multiple carbs that were not interconnected in the manifold. Think I used HT413 and picked through the gaskets to cover a wide range of Hitachis to kep everything the same when it went back together. Was the carb rebuild chasing this problem or done at same time as engine rebuild ? making it harder to diagnose It is a different specced engine now isn't it, but should rev and idle - must be in the carbs - the idle, surely ? I run my EA81's with a 16/56 cam and got engine to op temp and gacve both in and ex 4 thou

Yeah ? I recall a few have cut these EA82T cat converters up to tinker. I have had some that have had stuff fall out from between the heat shields and the cat itself and it floated like a weed flower or even dust in a light breeze. Some has been whitish in colour, another pinkish. Tell me this is not the deadly asbestos !! If its not, what is it ? Was nicely encased when it was made in 1985, but as things crack up and rust out it opens the insulation section up to the outside world where it will be a danger to someone if it is asbestos

Just don't drive while texting these new pics ! Looks terminal to me, unlss you have talented fiends who work for love or a few beers

man, you can measure boost direct at the inlet manifold take offs on my EA82T, but is not an 87.5. It is 85 modl and its boost light comes on at 2 psi. as you found , could be a few things, blocked cat ? This only happened when you fitted another exhaust and that was the pipe from left, to righ to turbo ? They do differ in the size of the hole in the mounting flange from about 36 - 42 mm. My 87.5 that I am yet to try a boost gauge on - at the manifold - runs a 36mm which I am pleased about. The smaller the hole to a point, the lower the torquey boost comes in. I have also run a 42mm one where it seems to be slow coming , then a great rush all of a sudden and would spin way more freely to 6500. Can you drop your broken orignal in to an exhaust shop to have them repair it and try it back on car ?

and be careful you don't just get bare inserts that are made to slip into a tube housing that has the mountings - they were for pre 84 MY. I got caught out there !

does it go to the knock sensor ? One wire , goes to a two pin plug. Just one wire to one pin? Are these round pins, flat 6mm flat spade, 3mm flat spade. Has the kcm got a part number or makers name or logo on it? gold zinc metal box or black plastic box? Knock sensor got one pin or two in it? Round pin ? Colour of knock sensor ? May as well try give all the wires colours and positions to see how it matches up with the 85.86 EA82T version try this link, look at diagram supplied by a Subaru Parts manager - see if it helps http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11260&highlight=diagram+knock+sensor

confirming , yep, that line is just utilising the collection of metal lines to get the line from one side of the engine to the other - neatly, and to the char can. That engine should push the bug along nicely. I have seen a WRX engine in similar age 'Bug here.....mind boggling how it all fitted in ! Just looked at your build thread Now can see why the VW was used for kit cars - never seen the body off like that ! Love your hard work on the fan install ..is that what others have used ? They are the main cooling fan on EA82 and my non AC EA82T came with just one, so all should be cool, what with, them being plentiful and cheap to replace, and ever reliable. I think the reason I have so many in my shed is never found a dud ! The AC version came with a clutch fan on the water pump. I first heard about Subes in bugs when talking to a guy who had an EA81, twin turbos, twin carbs - quicker off the mark he claimed that a WRX, just had to get out a slide rule to make some calculations before cornering though

autos engines are less likely to suffer crankshaft end float tolerance issues. You bought it ! Enjoy !

OK, I've seen Impreza dash set in an EA81 Brumby housing. Wondering after sizing things up, if anyone has been able to do same with EA82 dash gauge set - speedo (not budgie smugglers - both originated in Oz where one is called Speedos - always- as in plural of a single item ) tacho, fuel and temp gauge, high beam indicator, turn indicator and a few other warning lights. Would have to add in ignition lights as EA82 run them outside the dash pod, EA81 is within. I'd just like to have the tacho and my boost light I become so attached to even though forgot the tacho goes AWOL from time to time

well, if it is a sealed inner pipe within an outer pipe like I think it is now, the hole up front on the inside would be leaking into the vacuum and could be part of the problem. It may need a bash and weld up one day soon

and remember, here down under, we do have something that is always bigger than in the US - the gallon A US gallon is 4.0 litres, an imperial UK/Aus gallon is 4.54 litres ! Has it got an AWD "icon" in the centre of the dash ? Or are you being led to believe it is AllWheelDrive rather than 4WD which is all we really got - normal tarmac mode is full time FrontWheelDrive then you can select PartTime FourWheelDrive? Not a turbo? Not got disc brakes on rear ? I had a PT4WD with smart technology self select 4WD if a switch on dash right side near light switch, is "in" - trans would automatically select the rear drive in when ither kickdown switch, brake light switch or wiper switch turned on. You may just be looking at an auto 4WD L series wagon. If you not interested, can you send me a link to it if on the web or PM me details - I have an old friend with a bung clutch knee - wants what you describe

The EGR valve is directly above where it comes out of exhaust, but on the inlet manifold closest to the firewall, not the radiator, or has someone plated it up ? Two bolts hold EGR in place

aha, great, thanks fellas for the input Once saw a sticker, buff fella leaping out of the bedclothes, his woman wielding a big knife. "Never blame your tools" So, I have a very affordable gasless wire feed welder, or a stick welder and my skills have never had a chance to excell, so always try to steer away from welding thin things like exhaust unless I can get near a proper mig or two - then my skills improve immensely! Thinking I might also try random self tappers screwed through from outside until I get the sweetspot - picturing a hex head studded Y pipe

Just asking if anyone has ever disected an EA82 NA Y pipe (or run one to disintergration) ? I've got that awful loose baffle/loose cat/ fractured inner pipe rattle that comes and goes - sounds bleeding awful, embarassing etc I recall that viewing from the head flange I could see a hole into between the inner and outer tubes - just an inch below the flange. Now wondering if i should have belted it or tried to weld it shut. No idea how far this double wall/skin/tube goes for ? Thinking would love to be able to drill an access hole, belt the stuffings out of it, weld up hole and go on my merry way Otherwise i will just have to put up with noise until it comes off road in a few months

Sounds like a HVLAs characteristics - if you fitted new belts, they are not even minutely stretched and will have pulled cam timing back into spec with crank that may have put a new found load on the lifter at a different position...... five minutes sounds like a awarm up time. Problem solved ? Gees, does everyone in here wait for a belt to break before fitting new ones? What ever happened to service intervals and preventitive maintenance ? Once had a hydro EA81 that took ten miles drive to sort out some water in a lifter after a welch plug went in the head - so water in oil can do same sort of tick.

gear selection can be difficult, maybe not actually happen?? if the engine stay rod between firewall and engine is not in place ...... did you fit this back in before trying? I don't think you can fit the clutch plate in wrong faceway and bolt it all back together nicely without realising first, maybe not first, but as you tighten things, on these clutches. Think fly to crank bolt heads interfere ....

Fun ! ? From a right hand drive perspective, I found it a little unnerving when you took the roundabouts right turn and straight ahead - asking for trouble if you kept taking them like that down here Realise after that for me to view from near normal RHD driving position and you sitting on the left in total control seemed OK :)l 360 cc fuel sipper - looks great, sounds very healthy. Waiting to see the sequel with it loaded up with the film crew

actually, the EA82T sedan has an air filter in the wheel well anyway . The plastic pipe may not sustain a backfire as well as sili hoses etc idea shelved for a while.....

aha, non turbo as well - XT4 only, thanks for offering up that info ruparts. Wags, yeah, spider reminds me of EJ volume, and figuring an AWIC would be useless on an NA, so yours must be turbo, so you are about to go from old log style to spider - love to hear how it goes (so, will you hurry up please ) On one posibility the EA82T my propane carby is before the turbo so would 'just' need to replumb from turbo to new spider throttle body. The other is just mpfi EA82 NA and it needs a gasoline tank removal to make way for a spare tyre underneath or could plumb in propane carby around the corner from the spider throttle body if tyre was to remain in spare wheel well

Wondering of the huge collective of USMB readers, if anyone has done a conversion using the 'spider' inlet manifold of the EA82T (was it only XT Turbos that got these, and only 87.5 ?) I may have the opportunity to try either on my NA EA82 or my EA82T - just wondering if any improvement will be worth the effort of new gaskets, new intake plumbing,boast value and the effort (if it ain't broke theory application) I don't have to worry about injector compatability or TPS as I run a propane carby feeding fuel. Also keeping in mind, old theory that goes with the old IMPCO gear and smogger style fuel delivery is the smaller the air space between throttle and intake valves the better the fuel delivery can cope with changing mixture needs or to that effect. I'd be increasing that swept volume is it? against the theory. So just wondering if anyone has done such a simple swap and got better result in power delivery ??

Not criticial of you or anyone else but...starting to think it would help the OP's with diagnostics if posts were set out a bit like this >> Hi, new guy here. I was happily driving my Loyale down the highway when the engine just quit. no stumble or misfiring, just completely quit, it wont even think about starting. it cranks at normal speed? so far I have checked the fuel pressure just after the fuel filter, looks same as any random fuel pressure inspection done when car has been running fine? you can tell us if it is carb, spfi or mpfi ? fi neds about 36 psi , not just low pressure delivery so have you tried a momentary spray start assist fuel replacement in air tract ? checked that all plugs were getting a spark, checked compression. so far all is normal except the compression on the left two cylinders (from the drivers seat) are 80 - 90 psi that 'd be cyls 2 and 4, dizzy side ? how much in normal cylinders ? I figured a head gasket problem, why ? but would that cause the engine to quit like that? what else should I look at? thanks. nic

I had a rear nut come loose, just enough to cause intermittent squik, squik noise - and it was some tim before I noticed the nut was loose. Replaced the cone and spring washer with nice second hand pair, retorqued with long bar and foot...12 months on still fine

keep advancing until ping goes away ?? must be a northern hemisphere thing, coz down under we reduce timing advance in fact my 85 EA82T has a boost retard function in the vac advance cannister and the knock (ping) control module pulls the timing back from 20 to near 10 DBTDC until ping has gone