jono

you missed the supercharger era of Tweety, long and sad saga though it may have been, you still got a power hike ! Idasho - how'd you get high comp ?

Does it help you if you take into account the rubber intake boot has a junction at its base in the middle? Think one hose goes there at least. Not seen the cruise control before - is it factory ? My after market CC needs vacuum to keep cable pulled. That vacuum changes to pressure under boost, you have turbo - so, is there a separate vacuum making device like later Legacy turbos i believe, that you can hunt around for ? or does CC drop off under boost ? I'm considering will have to go electric next time around to cater for boost interference if it at all happens

Um, if you do, plug up any holes it leaves behind in head and inlet manifold. When I first got my 84 Brumby, it had an import engine and this can hanging off one end and disconnected at the other with a bit of wood jambing up the hole - was enough to fool the rego inspectors. Sem to recall a spark plug may fit the holes where it comes out ? Inside may have been just a roll of steel mesh ?

hiclone qld have been advertising lately - that oughta give you a Kia like swirl ! I used to have some mazda TC 1300 heads with built in swirl inducers above the valve seat - nasty things when mixed with fingers poking about. Not a continued enhancement. Cough * 16/56 0.235" lift EA81 really not a revver so low down torque pursuit is goo idea.The crank can get a bit of flex in it and pound out the centre main bearing tunnel and develop a bit of a knock. No idea if EA81S got a better crank for its high revability

another question .... did the leads or cap come off at any time ? and firing order is still 1 3 2 4 as you have #1 firing at correct time. I have done 3 1 2 4 before on an engine assembly in cramped conditions on the floor under a bench Think I have done 1 3 4 2 as well

i am think OP mad pig has something like what i had - silver coloured metal can about diameter of 330ml Coke can and had a spring clip retainer on a lid, one end from the top ? of 1,3 cyl head and then feeding into EGR feed ? on an intake ?

So, it must have sounded different? better ? I am not alone in weird ideas department Just wondering what the white stuff is under the heat shields - looks like the benchtops we used to have in metalwork - all these little white chunks crumbling out. James Hardie Industry product ?

Great stuff, thankyou I have tried right click and copy file - got no idea where it went. Another right click function was save file and she downloaded the images to my desktop, so from there, picasa should help, then maybe I'll try printing off. We have matching finger nails too. Come to think about it, so too did the girl at the dominant pizza joint last month

180 degree out dizzy engines don't even start do they ? This one started and ran nice until operating temp, so I can see why you are stumped - especially after so many checks, so, I think I asked if you had a chance to check compression ...sort of takes you back to step one diagnostics so you can at least add good comp to the baffling mystery. Sounds like someone dropped some coincidence while you were in there It is a carby set up ? Tell you what stumps me (for the moment) is how you can say it is the right side ( ie non dizzy side / cyl's 1 & 3) that is back firing ? You got dual carb or exhaust ? I admire your temperature taking diagnostic Or another thought, when you have the three amigoes lll lined up from memory it is the non dizzy side that has the tiny hole in cam wheel that lines up with timing case mark/top of head - your rotor button is pointing towards firewall and #1 post inside dizzy - silly question because you said it started and idled nice

Anyone tried using an EA82T exhaust crossover pipe on an NA EA ? I have thought about it - I have: the turbo gouge in the crossmember, a spare turbo pipe with turbo flange issues that called be resolved with a chop , talso have that horrible loose cat/lose baffle/loose inside pipe ratle of my current EA82 Y pipe the idea that I might get a different, almost turbo like note a tight budget to join things anyone else thought of and done this ?

The line up notch is same line as the join of cam box on head - nice engineers Recently done two sets, and once sort of broke the rule of never turn crank backwards and the dizzy side belt managed to skip a tooth even though I let the tensioner do its job! Once both belts are on and correctly tensioned, I rotate a few turns more to ensure all markscontinue to line up and tensions are still good. Were you able to measure the torque on the cam drive cogs in anti clockwise with torque wrench? I had to use guess work as my torque wrench is damagable if I use ratchet in anti clock. I lost the ease to rev to 6000,6500 once new belts were on, but power came back down rev range - maybe by 500rpm. Got my best fuel economy since doing them Oh, I know it sounds absurd, but on ausub a member onsold his EA82T, that later did a belt and n.o. mechanic claimed valve had hit pistons, possibly due to a few shaves too much ? Comp test coming up ?

I am another no one who has recently done this on a non lifted EA81. Swapped out 510,000km EA81 with twin carbs, swapped in an EA82 180,000km with turbo heads, cam, inlet manifold and run LPG though the mpfi throttle body. EA82 5 speed dual range box already in and running last 9 years. I recoed my heads, mizpah reco lifters and just fitted new timing belt kit and got economy back ! Don't regret the swap for one minute . You use word 'tranny' - slushbox or manual stick shift ? I know zip about putting auto in - taken a few out though If manual, you must use the clutch pedal from the EA82 as it increases an EA81 clutch pedal pull from 16 to the required 25mm. Mount a 10mm spacer between EA82 cable and EA81 pedal box once you have cut off EA81 pedal box cable mount. Tal shafts need consideration too. I bolted a two piece EA82 tailshaft in to simple flat bar 40mm x 5mm brackets bolted to just under seats on both sides +1 on extra wide eng mount slots, and as you drop engine in, undo the engine mount to block bolts 1/4" so the mounts flop loose, minimises the distance the engne x mem studs are and just drops in so easy, and easy to get at to tighten up once in place

Stuff I have found out - EA82 racks with their rack ends and tie rods are longer than EA81 rack assemblies. The gender of the different rack ends differs between the two models so EA81 rack ends won't fit EA82 racks. Not sure if some thread can be cut off EA82 rack ends at tie rod end to make same length? Will EA82 tie rod clear all EA81 brake, steering and suspension components ? EA81 power steering pump brackets need threaded holes in the cast bosses on dizzy side head. EA81 uses a longer snout on its power steering thermostat housing. New ball joints and attention to top bushing of strut may lighten up steering of manual steering

anything specific ? In paper form they weigh 4.7 kilos (2.2 lbs to a kilo)

"87.5 was the last of the Turbo 4cyl model......and the only turbos to get the Spider intake. (85/86/87 use the "flat" intake....Flapper MAF, 3 plug ECU) 88 they introduced the XT6.....Dropped the Turbo 4cyl. N/A 4 cyls were still available in both 2wd and 4wd til the end of the production run." quoting Gloyale above Here in Australia , we continued to get the turbo EA82T Vortices into 1989 but never got the XT6 The turbo AWD XT in 1987 was priced at $34,400, twice the cost of a most basic General Motors Holden 4 door passenger car equipped with the Nissan 3.0 litre I6 turbo @ $17,100. The XT or the RX ~ $22,995 !, GLTA did not sell very fast and came with incentives for the sales guys something like 4000 points for an RX or GLTA and 8000 points for an XT sale. I recently met an old guy who sold four in a month and earned himself a trip to Japan to tour the factory where he watched XT6 production!

Aha, thanks for fast responses guys - skishop - I see in your signature - now - that you have an 87.5. Should adjust my sig I have the two blue folders of the 85,86 MY and it has quite a lot of XT stuff scattred throughout, but of course is too old to feature the 87.5 spider turbo. What I'd like is a copy of the diagnostic process of likely 2.7 - like the testing of the air flow meter, TPS, the chart and pinouts of the ECU for correct reference just in case something goes awry with my 87.5. The distributor is a different part number between early half of 1987 make dates compared to later half 87 make dates as they are the 88 MY. The ECU is also a different part number. I'm told by a reliable source that the wiring between th ECU and distributor is different - two wires interswapped ? I have a download pdf from an 88 Vortex manual found in the download section of ausubaru.com

sounds like an issue with retailer I have had that tingle off the back of my L tacho green tacced on my Brumby steering column - not a sensation the body wants to continue with - but I'd say is normal - how long did you hold it to keep tacho read nice ?? You'd think a dicky HT lead may cause this - if you also had a miss. Got any leads to swap in one by one just to see if any change?

all the fuses inside the car are good - what about the fuses outside the car- the FL's - fusible links in the black box of three? fabric insulated things of the + cable from the battery - they corrode, bust, but rarely burn - usually at age 23 in my experience !

OK EDIT. would not just be an XT4 manual, it would be part of factory workshop manuals for late 86, early 87 MY87 EA82 powered things I know there are links about the web to 1988 XT Vortex workshop manuals, but what about the models made in the first half of 1987 with the spider manifolded turbo AWD? The 1988 models began production somewhere in mid 1987 and have minor differences in the ECU and distributor. I believe that in the USDM the 1987.5 edition was the last of the XT4 or was it just XT4 turbo replaced by XT6 and NA XT4 still available?

:oops: :oops:

thought you were an old post dredger - but it's your thread to begin with - just four years and three months later. Good of you to complete the thread I've got a few intercoolers around that need this finalising Hey ! You have an EJ plastic oil cap and what looks like an EJ oil fill tube. I tinkered with idea from an EJ16 - don't think any holes lined up. How'd you do yours ??

Googled snow for you wagonist and found this http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13837&highlight=snow

it's how I read it at first too, something got lost in the translation Another thing lost is how a 1" 12 point socket fits over the EA82 oil pump pulley for starters, then if socket does fit, how do you then access the small nut holding oil pump belt driven pulley ??

Is the spare parts network in the UK for the dealers good enough to be able to ask them for a price on 721032064 to get them in from the motherland. I bought a pair of same ambidextrous number in last 18 months from a convict land based Sube dealer - about the A$170 ea come with factory adjusters, fit right in, satin black and give nice ride

Well, a new dizzy cap to suit that dizzy off your old engine will likely be Bosch GH617 with rotor GH605 Good luck.