jono

So, is this confirmed? Intentionally advanced by one tooth each side of an EA82, T or NA, correctly ignition timed to suit will run and idle like a bag of poop ??i

Wow, 85% ethanol in an old Subaru - wonder if it has rusted away from the inside by now - 8 years later ??

Copffs Harbour? Not the place sometimes called Cox's Harbour where bananas grow nearby ? The organised tangle of silver painted metal pipes and tubes that carry fuel and vacuum on the EA82T's are different between models. If you tell what the ECU is by part # or plugs might help get a correct answer..... If the ECU is a 3 plugger running a dizzy with vacuum, you mention turbo, so is EA82T not just an mpfi EA82 from a NA Loyale or Vortex ? -the EA82T 3 plugger with flapper afm has a vacuum supply pipe to the dizzy location. If the import engine you got has a no vac can dizzy it won't have a vac supply either. Non spider inlet manifold throttle body should have two vac supply ports on the front side facing up. The one on the same side as the dizzy gets vacuum to the dizzy on vac dizzy models. Yours should still have two ports, just need to T piece into that side. Those dizzy caps with hole on it for a tube? usually has a rubber vent cap on it to stop moisture getting in, not sure why they have the hole/breather - an electrical thing ? Always the way when someone sells an import from Japan - someone feels the need to break the dizzy caps Where'd you get an import EA82T in this day and age ? You'd think Japan has not run an EA82T for at least twenty years !!

:D Mine was faster normal, not anything special or appearing on the options list, bit like rybikes double speed something goes dry in the speedo head and CRC556 sprayed in the cable hole at the back by my assistant RubberMan fixed it. My current one with the box swap is sluggish at times. At other times the tacho goes to sleep

I have had the faster speedo fixed with crc556 sprayed in the back of th speedo head. I have a sometimes slow reading in my GLTA ever since I fitted the 5 speed manual retaining the longer auto 3 speeds cable. Three speeds auto cable goes in on LHS of box, 5 speed cable is on RHS of box. In a RHD world the longer auto cable bends a bit more to reach RHD speedo head so I suspect that is my cause. In RHD, a 3 speeds longer cable is desired for lifts. US manual box likely uses longer cable in manuals ? Made any tranny changes ?

My first encounter with the very first of my EA82T ownership was not good.I bought a tragic overheated sedan, bought a replacement engine, tore its heads off to inspect for cracks before warranty ran out, before I even fitted it, found cracks that warranty issuer decided I'd voided warranty by tearing heads off to look for them in the first place/ A 400 mile round trip prepared to tear his head off resulted in financed repair of EA82T head. Funny how face to face can resolve things when distance creates some bravery Anyway, heads welded and serviced by large company scoping work nationwide it would seem. On with new gaskets, the rest carefully assembled then installed. Engine develops a funny miss affecting the idle speed. Checked compression 130 psi all four, new plugs, new leads, next new cap and rotor, checked,cleaned and swapped injectors ....checked everything possible...even new fuel pump ! Would start real nice. As soon as tap the accelerator or increase revs by cable it would come back to idle on three cylinders - always #2 A forum member on ausubaru swore it would be a weak valve spring as the springs get heat affected from turbo at #3. Head reco crowd insisted all springs are checked to be within spec ( a clue here, no max an min limits from Subaru ) and that it could be/would be a dodgy HVLA. So, new HVLA done in car on all fresh assembled engine - hate doing something twice . All back together and the miss is worse - stronger I found that to get in and drive it would sort the miss out and only on sharp decel would it realy return, other than first start, oh, and at high revs as the self shifter went from 1 to 2nd, 2nd to third and would carry on a bit until settled again and I could race on normally. Bad thing was fuel is propane and ignited propane of #2 would flash back to help ignite stuff in intake manifold, turbo etc and blow off my ducting and clamps all over the road, disabling me from an overtake manouvre to the roadside. Drove like this for 20,000km until I had time and money to fit new factory valve springs with engine out. Dissemble a second time due to some a holes inability to do a good job ! As I am swapping springs on head with crank locked, air fed in to push against valves - I have #4 fitted up and compare new to "within spec" springs with complex measuring device, fancy digital piece of equipment every good machine shop employee should have most of - the human finger....the springs on offending cyl 2 were as soft as a bloody marshmallow! Seeing this I was confident the remote diagnosis would be correct. Turned my PITA into a great little flyer, smooth and quiet power delivered, the boost gauge did not quiver anymore, and I could pass slower stuff and not have to pull over soon after to collect belongings off the road - and I had a 5 speed to replace the auto So many things can go wrong ......

Is this an auto or stickshift, as you guys call them ?

That Giles is a bit of a wheeler and dealer ain't he ?

OK, starting to smack of something, but don't let me lead you astray. I haven't got my spfi leftovers anymore to look at to compare so going to ask if the spfi has a separate faster idle circuit like the mpfi has on the throttle body. The mpfi throttle body non spider has a solenoid unit of about 19mm hex bar, an earth wire and a power wire.It has a rubber tip on the plunger and diverts air past the throttle blade when the power wire is energised and the speed is increased only 100 or 150 rpm. It might be for AC on load only but is on all my mpfi non spider throttle bodies. I can imagine I'd get a hunting idle speed effect if it it had constant on/off power supply due to broken/bad connection ....but can't imagine it would keep it up so consistently as your problem. What could give this consistency would be if it was a dicky relay acting a bit like an old basic alarm bell I made as a kid with a hacksaw blade acting as part of the switching circuit, a donger on one end of the blade to hit the bell. A magnetic coil winding would be powerwed up and conatct broken everytime the blade was attracted to the magnet - perpetual motion to ring a bell until main power disconnected ....just to explain where some of my random, cryptic thoughts may be coming from I should have suggested plug off the inlet manifold when you pull the vacuum booster hose and every other one as you are trying to isolate the problem, not create a new one. Oh, your PCV valve screwed in the manifold, wrist tight is enough, we all see extra thread on outside Got an extra earth strap between block and body just for good measure ? My thinking here is that if something is starving for a decent earth, it may have an earth but not good enough...and thinking here is when a rear brake/tail light bulbs blows, filament falls across the other circuit - one circuit is earth switched - tail, and brake circuit is power switched you get odd things, or if an earth is not good for one circuit so sucks it from a nearby source but needs to share you see funny cyclic things happen with lights esp in the blink circuit Another thing, we had a guy with an EA82T in a wagon here in Oz, with an impossible to find problem at speed I think his was. I think it went a few thousand miles by truck or train to an expert to be sorted....things went quiet....vehicle sold on, sold on. I ended up with a pair of heads from the troubled guy , and do not know if they were off his troubled beast but...inside, one valve was wearing unevenly into the side of the valve guide, think it could get stuck, not closed sealing properly. I had some new guides or Klines installed and running them now in my Mizpah'd EA82Mongrel

Well, you may have worked out why it did not change on disconnecting the IACV but did when you pulled the hose off ?? If you pulled hose off and not blocked the hose, you allowed unmetered, unfiltered air into the intake boot, leaning it out instantly Not your answer though. As this thread grows, so too are repeat questions. Can we do signatures in here? So you can list what you have done in point form in a sig to follow you about ? If this was my problem at this stage I would be plugging up PCV valve hole solid and let rocker hoses breathe to atmos for testing, block off IACV totally. I'd also be looking at all hoses running off inlet and throttle, one by one, disconnecting from inlet to rule out weird things - including brake vacuum booster - but don't drive it disconnected or unclamped !! For safety sake !! Not ever had a bad booster in a subaru, but imagine if fluid leaks back of master into the booster, forms a puddle and the booster diafragem has a hole, air blubs it way through ......to inlet manifold , weird idle - straw clutching now ....

OK, so it is mpfi or spfi, and 1990 so it is not the idle air control valve mounted on the thermostat housing like 1985,86 model mpfi's. I run both early and late without idle control valves able to contribute air anywhere - just a bit boggy on start up - just like starting an old car with a choke knob, or without, may take a little juggling. Try blocking it out for test purposes. Have you checked the PCV valve ? If the rocker breathers are blocking up the crankcase may be getting a bit too much air in it with an escape out the PCV valve causing a hunting effect. Try a spark plug I think, blocks the PCV hole for testing ???

ooh! You have no idea just how funny that is !! http://www.reddit.com/r/keto/comment...to_fart_a_lot/ culprit for me last few days has been isomalt

the L Series EA82 front shafts themselves are about 40mm longer than MY/Brumby front shaft

I have a head just the same, they spin, just won't bloody come out. Watching this post thread with interest

That is correct, am in Australia and is an AWD EA82T gearbox I have - single range with a big clanger of a vacuum thing for centre diff locking. I have just wrestled it out of the vault, backed it up against a wall so the tin cup protector of rear output is square on the 'wall' let's call it, jacked up a bit under the back of the box to get it square ona nd level for measuring. I get 735mm from rear of protector cup to mating face of casting at bellhousing, take off the 3mm the cup protruds beyond the end of the output shaft 732mm for the AWD box. Last time I measured things was not this precise. Before I can do this box in my Brumby I need to knock up some front shafts with 25 spline DOJs.The Brumby currently runs a 23 spline EA82 5 speed DR box and EA82 two piece tailshaft. I have a pair of one piece tailshafts meant to be for the 5 speed DR in Brumby without centre bearing mount. One shaft is longer than the other ?? One shaft is claimed to have a vibration

those three or four M6 bolts holding front covers are often seized/too tight inside their respective brass captive/cast into the plastic nuts. End up breaking something to get them undone, so not always 'easy' .. When refitting I use a tiny rubber O ring as a washer to do the fastening, without letting the underside of the washer like bolt head bind on the plastic casing ever again - they come undone with true ease the next time ! The belts are adjustable through the rubber plugs in the front casings, but takes some experience to work out the lock bolt and the adjuster bolt of each plug. Can't remember if it is 12 or 14mm head ??

No, you probably have the brother to my old gauge sender I thought I had a cool running beast,never got hotter than 1/4 BUT my watchdogTM2 was reading higher at times and the gauge never went above 1/4 still ! Until I fitted another sender unit - not a new one either.Still runs about 1/4 unless hot days, mountain climbs goes to about 1/2 Now running another EA82 combo in another sube. Is EA82 carb block, mpfi turbo heads, cam and the mpfi twin port inlet manifold for the best LPG throttle option. Goes great now i have learned how it is to be driven, flooring it in first and second gets it up to 50 mph ~ 6000rpm. Now without crapped out clutch fan, is so quiet and smooth on the mizpah engineering reco lifters. Hoots better than the twin carbs on EA81

just don't mix the 21mm step and 23mm step pressure plates, one is for EA81, other for EA82. I think people have altered step to suit the pressure plate of choice

EA81 engine in to replace an EA82 is a retrograde step pollution control wise and may not be accepted by authorities. When I fitted EA82 engine into MY EA81 Brumby the engine mounts are stressed as the angle is not the same, so I would expect EA81 engine mounts on an EA82 engine crossmember to be equally stressed the opposite direction. Lower radiator hoses will not be same and need some matching, cut, join work. Both are 30mm ID An EA81 radiator is likely gonna be too tall to use in EA82 body. Use an EA82 flywheel on the back of an EA81 crank ? I guess they will line up - anyone confirm ? If I can use a 740mm long coil lead to use an EA82 in an EA81 Brumby body, you can use a long coil lead to avoid moving the coil if run an EA81 engine in an EA82 body

I did exactly the same 24 hours ago in my 84 Brumby !! On the other side of the globe too !! 14 Vots at idle and before even 3000rpm get 17 and 18 Volts. Must have been like this at least 3000km, lucky nothing fried. The reg is inside according to the Hitachi label. I wanna keep mine but find a universal fit up external regulator so I don't have to trash the alternator. A word of warning. The same thing happened to me years ago, so replaced the replaceable regulator in the back of the Boschh unit to get same result. It turns out that a near dead battery in the multimeter was the cause! This time, I double checked two DMMs and two cars before swapping in a spare alternator

Four weeks later ....nothing. Have we given up, crushed it, gone into hibernation ? I've come in to add the bits I have just found If it is a three plug ECU, flapper style AFM with gold zinc knock sensor module running off the four pins on Hitachi distributor with vac can for boost/retard timing and springs and stuff inside - the factory coil has an A5 round sticker on it and C1T- 117 in red fine paint print on the side. I have used a Bosch MEC 717 for a year before it pooped itself. Running genuine newie of above numbers since. Come back and fill us in on your present torment! I can go through each wire to coil to give what I have on mine to compare. There is a factory test procedure using the test plugs in the loom under the bonnet as well

In Oz, always thought the Leone tag badge was only for sedans that were FWD. For convenience at after market places we called anything a Leone just to ID the thing. Then the 4WD wagons (2WD rare -as) just never had Leone badges until yesterday - saw the badge on a 4WD auto carby wagon. I thought the Royale - FWD mpfi sedans were just a celebratory thing for the Royal wedding, not simply post 1990 models as Lee suggests. Have seen a few Royales and they had the RX rubber ducktail bootlid spoiler - maybe ftted after RX and GLTA stopped sales here ?? I could well be wrong about the Royale being a celebratory car. One Royal wedding was pre 86, another mid 86 (got booked twice in an hour for speeding the day after) then not until 1999 for Edwards. Other makes here had Royal special models - one was a luxo top of the line Japanese - Nissan Royale Saloon or some such and I think another was a slow selling 4 cylinder version of a I6 or V8 family car made in Oz - and sold to the New Zealanders , which is probably when they revolted and imported the used Japanese rockets we can only dream about here A nice little reference site for Aus DM cars is here http://myrta.com/rvd/ but be aware it has operating hours !

maybe, this time, stick with the norm on the old girl. The jet sizes people have supplied about the place are mostly for the 32/36 ? When you make adaptor, don't do what i forgot once - that the butterflies need room to move under the base line, and I think it helps if that adapter has two corresponding round holes directly below each trottle plate..think It is a pity that the whole thing needs dissembly* to swap in a cam change as you probably know this might assist with your low end torque needs * the sump has to come off, can't recall if block needs splitting once valve tension off lifters and you rattle lifters away from cam

that's be things like best grade brake pad material, slotted/cross drilled discs if available. A fluid change always helps and oddly I found with one vehicle non Sube gave better pedal feel at least, was with new hydraulic lines !

I am confused...when OP says "Is the electric fan the main cooling fan with this engine or is the fan with the fan clutch the main fan?" I'd say he asks about a vehicle with a viscous coupling clutch fan on the alternator/dizzy side and an electric fan on the turbo side. I'd hazard a guess that the viscous coupled fan is the main fan with the electric a secondary as he also suspects. The only time that turbo side electric fan is the main or only fan is like my non AC EA82T XT - when apallingly it is the only cooling fan ! I have added an electric fan to the alt/dizzy side working in unison with the factory lonesome primary fan electric fan.