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jono
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Everything posted by jono
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EA82s- endangered species at the junkyard
jono replied to kayoteq's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Tweety might like to get you to send the lot of the spfi off to the crusher/melting pot to save any grief for anyone in the future -
Hmm, been getting the odd, random jolt as I zip along, light load once, just off boost for another jolt. It is ignition cut out and is whole of engine, momentary cut out and back to happy again. It is gonna catch me out one day and really upset the traffic around me. Wondering if it is characteristic of the 4 pin ignition modules in the EA82T first series with 3 plug ECU, flapper AFM systems?? Sort of a bit like when I had the std 2 pin modules die in my EA81's - a precursor warning before completely lets one down. These 4 pin modules are nearly $1000 from Subaru ex-Japan or $300 Rockauto. A breakdown tow job is similar to Rocks pricing and stil doesn't make engine spark again.. Anyone had similar experience with these early systems and have an outcome ? My leads are maybe 60,000km old, genuine $100 coil about the same age. Non genuine made in China did not last more than 12 months. May be time to check fuse links, relay swap, battery terminals and earths ??
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really not much in either of those threads .....but raises one question for me who has done one EA81 4 to 5sp conversion .... the bolt pattern of an EA82 flywheel - is it the same as an EA81 ? I retained the EA81 flywheel and its 200mm pressure plate. Isuzu did a small 1600 sedan in mid 70's in Australia , we called it a Holden Gemini. I used a friction plate for it as its 200mm plate also had correct splines ~ 0.10 mm to suit the EA82 5 speed input shaft. They differ between EA81 and EA82 4WD boxes. With a EA82 flywheel on flat floor with its engine side on the ground, sat right next to an EA81 flywheel in same position, you can line up the starter riing gears to see they don't mesh at the same height off the floor, so would give starter motor meshing problems over time, or maybe first try. I and many others fixed this by making a spacer for between same EA81 starter and the bellhousing - the difference of the above exercise. I found 4mm stuffed on floor beneath one flywheel just for measuring purpose meshed ring gears perfectly in my case, so used 4mm sheet aluminium. If I'd had and used an EA82 flywheel and clutch then, no need to make spacer. Back then I would have also learnt that an EA82 clutch pedal was also mandatory to get correct cable pull of about 25mm measured at fork. Use EA82 clutch cable, modify pedal box to take its easier mounting sytem, with a 10mm block between pedal box reinforcement of 1.6mm mild steel plate welded or riveted. The EA81 4 speed gearbox mounts and crossmember can be retained to hold the 5 speed in place. ID whicjh mount was on left hand side, which is right. They stay same, just one each has one hole each elongated with a rat tail file to mate up with 5 speed. Look and you will see. I also used EA82 two piece tailshaft, made up flat bar 4 or 5 mm thick, 40mm wide, kept flat, no bending welding just drilled holes and when tailshaft was straight using string line from rear diff centre to gearbox centre line - held these flat bars attached to centre bearingbracket and drilled up through floor to bolt in place under front seats. Done
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25.4mm to an inch, sorry, I was too lazy to convert....so....you mean your clutch cables are same as ours ? yet our pedals are in different spots !
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Urgent ea81 SPFI conv ignition condenser question
jono replied to tweety's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
so...these spfi EA82's used similar ignition set up like 87.5 XT and mpfi including turbos, and an optical dizzy ? -
I have a sedan known as (by very few) as a GLTA - came factory 10/85 with EA82T and 3 speed 4WD auto, later ones got E4AT air suspension and a non checkered interior, so call it an auto version of an RX for simplicity, maybe the OPs is auto and a softened version of an RX when its not an RX, like mine ?
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gudgeon pin bush ?
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OK, wow, must check myself I have two measures written down as 765mm from end of thread to centre of pin hole at pedal end for XT4 Turbo FWD and approx 730mm for 1985 RX using its special pedal box assembly & all other EA82 4WD. So far XT4 Turbo FWD and 4WDs got same clutch forks - thinking non turno FWDs clutch fork may be the key here too !
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The difference in length is in the inner cable and noted on RHD FWD turbo that it got the longer inner cable of the two cables I was able to compare at the time. There is only one clutch fork part number for all EA82 from memory, must cover the 200mm FWD NA clutch and 225mm 4WD/ FWDT ??
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then you can tap the engine block with say a 1/2" extension bar to effect a knock to be sensed by the knock sensor, watch the voltage from the test wire near coil if it is Series 1 3 plug ECU to see if it spikes from its happy running 1.7V up to 4.5V and see if timing retards and returns to previous seen timing - can be done at idle. A no BS calling comment as per usual, in light text, tone is adjusted to bold if I get excited. Sorry if you tok insult WoodsWagon, none intended
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86 BRAT Fuel pump/Disty issue?
jono replied to TIMBERTIGER's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
fuel pump timer is the safety cut out device found above the pedals, black box with about six wire plug in it. It is a neck and body twisting effort to get at, let alone test it in that spot. I would be testing at the fuel pump and be testing across the two wires at pump - meaning source your neg and pos from the fuel pump plug and see that the test device does not lose power after engine is running. With my 89 Brumby I found fuel pump does not get power until engine is running, so no fuel pump power in start/crank key position as it should start with what fuel is in the float bowl, if engine stalls with ign in run or IGN on position, black box cuts power or earth to pump for safety. However, I tried to disable ignition spark during a comp test so pulled ign fuse I think it would have been and noted fuel pump then ran at odd key positions - didn't run the same protection mode ???[ -
This is interesting as I have fitted up an EA82 cat Y pipe for its larger pipe diameter to my EA81 Brumby that had no cat being an 84 model, actually an 85 made in 84, and got improved fuel consumption and torque over the 2" sports exhaust system of no cat, no dog, just a noisy rear muffler. Having then mated the Y pipe up to its original EA82 in the Brumby, for a lower kilometre, reco lifters, heads etc and fit new larger clutch in the ute, I have returned to not so good mileage Might be due to the less torque I fel I get from this engine compared to the EA81, and it breathes better being a twin port mpfi and revs a little higher - the power band feels about 3500 and above to about 5000, has seen 6000 - something my EA81 never saw !
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Help with PCV system please
jono replied to Radio Flyer's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I'd be checking the condition of all the breather hoses to ensure not blocked at all with carbon crud - includes rocker cover removal and wash through the breather baffles with a solvent. A catch can is a great thing for this problem if it continues after inspection and clean up. -
really ? is this comment from theory land or experience? The only reason it is theoretically pulling timing back (step-by-step) is that things are at max power producing before detonation and I have seen my knock boxed system in midst of its retardation by monitoring the output of the otherwise not connectd terminal near the coil on 85/86 models and seen it run up to about 4.0V and not felt any falling flat. If the knock sensor circuit is suspected, does the 4plug ECU have a test point like 3plug ECU;s with separate knock control module? What ECU have you got ? Flapper MAF or hotwire ? Sounds like you may have 4 plug and hotwire ....
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Fuel pump is in good working order ...based on what info ? The only way I have been able to correctly test these efi fuel pumps is T piece in a gauge and run it on a "dyno" and find it is usually or always lower down the revs that its pressure drops off, not near 4300rpm. Needs to be ~ 36 psi, seen EA82T bog down at 10 psi just when you want some power about 2200 when turbo starts to spool up. Just because it pumps fuel don't mean it is healthy - it is correct pressure, so, what about fuel pressure regulator and its vacuum supply hose ?Maybe some injector cleaner? in fuel? Air filter element healthy ? It is efi - could be a few things you won't be able to put your finger on until swap bits in and out .... coil, or leads?
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EA81 running on one side of engine only
jono replied to el_freddo's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
the ea81 that came out of b3 are a bit like that on top - flat, zip markings but still got sube marks inside -
length difference of EA82 5MT DR box to XT AWD 5MT SR ?
jono replied to jono's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I really need to get the boxes in a better place to measure more accurately then with this news. Hard to believe an engineer makes a different version of a box the same - they didn't make the auto the same length as the manual box did they ? I am going the 25 spline inner joint DOJ option on the Brumby front CV shafts as I have the bits kicking about. If the AWD box with centre diff lock turns out an expensive mistake and full of noise I have a 25 spline 5MT 4WD DR to take its place. Really don't want to have to modify a tailshaft to find out the AWD is a bad thingj -
seat bracket compatibility between models & years
jono replied to Marck's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I have seen EA82 seats of unkmown year adapted to fit EA81. The bolt holes are wider apart on EA82 than EA81, but same from front hole to back hole, same shape to deal with. I have 86 made XT seats in my 85 sedan and are same width apart, but about 60- 70mm longer in the runners from front hole to rear hole, so spacer brackets have been made up to allow this. Had no trouble fitting 87 EA82 model seats in 85 EA82 -
EA81 running on one side of engine only
jono replied to el_freddo's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
didn't think to tell us you had a hydro engine, sure ? Import only as a used donk or special car import according to Subaru Australia. I had an API import with....guys, Bennie forgot to tell how he drained something like 14 litres of black buttermilk out of this long standing ? thing...when I had a welch plug go on my hydro, engine out and back in, oil change, had a miss and a tick for 10kms before the crap in the lifter worked its way out or evaporated. -
From crude measurements taken, there appears to be a difference in total casing length of the two boxes, Whether that involves total length between the rearmost of the rear output shaft to the front of the bellhousing casing I am not sure. Has anyone done a direct replacement - toss the PT 4WD box, fitting in the AWD SR and not had tailshaft issues - retaining same tailshaft? Maybe in an MY EA81 to be specific ? I currently have a PT 5MT 4WD DR in my Brumby and use the two piece tailshaft that accompanied the box from an EA82 L Series wagon, and can't recall if it was a close tight fit - if it was, the AWD box may be a problem. I think the front half of tailshafts of XT, manual and auto EA82 4WDs were different lengths, just unsure if any combo is going to work or major cash needs be spent on slicing a bit out of a tailshaft. The box intended to go in is of an unknown to me quantity. Claims from the wrecker that sold it to the guy I got it off were that it was nice. Since discover it was high miler, and subjected to a joy flight
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Dash and park lights come on during braking.
jono replied to Travis1992's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
one brake light filament fallen off its post and made contact with the park/tail light/dash circuit ?? Check the bulbs for brake and tail circuits working correctly ? Got a tow hook up cable for a trailer with water or mud in it ? -
Excessive engine noise after timing belt job...
jono replied to 92_rugby_subie's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
sometimes new belts can sound a bit tight and give a whirring sound. hear it at times in traffic. It is always a good insurance policy to replace all the tensioners and idler and know the correct tight torque for those tensioner bolts is quite low to avoid stripping or breakage