jono

I have one acc cable US sourced for the longer length, $5 price and just found its carby pull end won't fit just yet as the finish of the cable being pressed into of the end pull leaves a little to be desired. The end was not cast into th cable, rather pressed with like a centre punch type securing method, and a bit of cable strand poking out end. I have a few more residing in Grayland at the moment ....* cough, cough if you are reading Mark ...dunno if they are the same yet XT acc cables are a heavier duty than EA81 and 2 series. An M8 thread on the throttle end instead of M6 and XT seems to have a ball and nylon socket at the pedal end

can you do same size pic for the silver one please ? Comes across at under 8kb, whereas the darker one is 169kb ! the darker one looks pretty good too. When you US guys talk of rockers - you don't mean the rocker covers/tappet covers do you ? door sill panel ??

86 - so it is flapper afm style ? with the cold start air bypass mounted on the coolant thermostat housing?

Did you read my posts ? (said in a soft, cool text) If you still need to clear the code, and if code 34 is for the EGR valve - you need to attend to the solenoid which should be on a black wire and blue wire in a white connector. Solenoid itself bolted to inlet manifold with an M6 , 10mm head bolt - this is what is yelling for help to the ECU. It is nice that you cleaned the EGR I got to know EGRs in a rather detailed way on an EA82T by plumbing in T at the EGR valve vacuum source on the engine, ran that extension through to the cabin where I had another EGR valve in working order, drove around for days with my pinky jammed in to feel the vacuum actuating while watching a vacuum boost gauge. Still to work out how a carby EA82 disengages the EGR at idle foot off throttle better add a disclaimer : My dealings were with a series one EA82T and code 35 is for EGR solenoid being stuck ON or OFF code 34 on Series one is a thermosensor ! But when playing with a later Spider version, did not wait for codes, just got in there and tested the two wires of the solenoids on a battery - both were stuffed, so replaced with used ones and is happy. Just been reading series 1 factory manual and it details the workings of the egr valve - and they are all different between carb, mpfi, turbo and markets! They have different cut in temps and speeds for cut out between all the varieties. But OP question was how to resolve without spending money ....check that solenoid

just waiting for Jeszek to come in and tell you that the last run of EA81 body styles in his region came out from the dealer with EA82 engines In the southern hemisphere we call the EA81 engined models MY, EA82 engined models L Series. Is your keyboard having issues with its 8 button ?

what is there ...two bolts either side of the gearbox cross member, two nuts each side for the engine crossmember if they don't break first, and three strut top bolts and it should all fall to the ground in a hurry which is where a decent trolley jack comes in handy to drag it out once lowered. Before doing that I'd be undoing the front hub nuts 36mm and cracking tie rod tapers, remove engine mount nuts. But why pull their engine at all, suspend the engine from a coupla bits of decent lumber or steel across the top of the fenders or just insiode so no panel damage and leave their shuff hanging - take yer stuff and thank them

OK, which EGR system have you got? I am going the other way and need to restore one or two EGR systems. Do you have an EGR valve as such or the air pump system? The air pump system does not actually have a pump as such but looks to draw air into the exhaust on one side just below the head and supply fresh filtered air into the inlet manifold via a plate and pipe where EGR valve would normally bolt on. EGR is usually only set up to operate when at operating temp and between about 1 to 10 inches Hg. If you have an ECU it may limit it to below 30mph as well, so I get the impression it is only for low speed operation such as in slow moving traffic such as in built up areas

Guess what !! Casually talking about the upper rad hose, quoted the number of hose used - turns out it was an EA82/ L Series/ Loyale TOP radiator hose. Fits just great. Looks like I am on my own with the bottom hose .....

Gees, can be confusing to use the word timing (alone) when involving the three lll marks on the flywheel. I reckon the word timing should be used together with ignition timing, for use with a timing light - and the three marks lll on flywheel in conjunction with timing belt install in order to get correct valve timing. And the frustraing thing at this stage is if you can't get it started, a timing light is useless. Was in this space last week with a forklift, and luckily it had points ignition, so used old school method of set crank to timing mark not TDC but may have been 8* BTDC, loosened off dizzy lock bolt and turned it to just as cam lobe on dizzy shaft started to open points, locked dizzy - laughed at the owner for trying subie firing order on a mitsubishi , bit of fuel splashed down throat and she started and roared like not seen before for this owner Has anyone ever done a compression test when valve timing has been wrongly set, either with the ignition timing mark or not roatating crank once between timing belt install ? Has anyone done compression test on this problem car ? I thought the lll marks were about 90 degrees after the TDC and ignition timing marks ! when turning crank clockwise, and when turning crank clockwise, think the dizzy rotor button goes anti clockwise - have you got the leads on cap in correct places and rotation ?

new PCV ? That's rare down under ! The little fibre filter pads would be a rare replacement also, the ones in the air filter box.. I did not have a blown fuse myself, just found solenoid did not work. As for odie, my factory manual describes EGR function as to operate only at operating temp + below 45 kph? + the way the vacuum controls it between about 2 and 10 inches of mercury Hg. Killed the theory that you gain 10kW by blocking off the EGR, unless they measured extra 10kW at light throttle rather than max power revs - there is no vacuum to operate an EGR on an EA82T ! You hook up vacuum at idle and valve actually breathes - you will stall it, coz you are feeding exhaust into inlet manifold. My ecu has not controlled EGR as it should, does it at all temps, all speeds above idle just with vacuum being at corrct levels to open diaphragm. You could hook up a micro switch on accelerator function to close of solenoid vacuum at idle ?

the ecu can't actually suggest the EGR is at fault as it does not have any elcetrical connections, but I think code 34 is refering to the solenoid valve that controls the vacuum to operate the EGR. Stick to open, or stick to close I think are the words. The only ECU code I have had on mine when I got it and assembled things and was spot on, not some flippin' red herring like ECU codes can be! The solenoids can be found on many EA82 and EA82T to replace it with. Can be a pain to get at some on turbos, but easy to test, just put 12v across ther terminals and listen for a click open, and shut. Maybe shorted internally use a fuse and see if it blows fuse. Be a good time to check and clean your PCV valve at the back of the inlet manifold too - 19mm spanner.....

jf3au5 6/89 build got ea81 882505 [now deceased - autopsy looks like minimal oil/young boy driver with tacho ] Forgot I even posted this up !! OK, no one has mentioned that some EA81 blocks did not have the extra 14mm hex keyed plug at the front of the distributor side block - into the water jacket? I have one without the plug or threaded hole. The crank that went with it did not have the space at the back behind the flywheel for that oh so pricey orang seal/washer/whatever it is meant to be. Came out od my 3/84 sedan auto 074839 for a jan 92 made EA81 Brumby , suspect it sounds like hydro ?? 604825 for 3/84 EA81 this one has the no room for seal on crank or the water plug at front 882505 for 6/89 EA81

OK, I hope the title is pretty specific. I have already been advised in here that when fitting an EA82 engine into an EA81 body shape - retain the EA81 radiator and use the lower radiator hose of EA82 series tobecome the top radiator hose - no trimming required - done it! This was on EA82 spfi inlet on an EA81 engine in an EA81 series body - specifically a BRAT/Brumby/MV1800 Next project involves an EA82 carb block, EA82T mpfi heads,cam and inlet manifold into another EA81 series body - another B/B/MV . You have no idea how much time I wasted thinkering to fit an EA82 series radiator into an EA81 series front end, there is less height to an EA82 radiator, and, as it turnd out, I was playing with an XT/Vortex radiator which was a litle longer than a normal EA82. Partly made up brackets to take the opposite gender of EA82 radiator bottoms compared to EA81 radiators .... Also gotta ask if an EA82 inlet manifold on an EA81 engine locates the thermostat in exactly same position as an EA82 engine in an EA81 body - guess it must if peeps have used same bottom hose for top in conversions - if you catch my drift ? Yeah, so what a relief it was to find a hose I had in used but near new condition worked as well as an engineered hose! Bloody beauty ! So, looking for hints on the lower radiator hose for EA82 engine in EA81 body with same easy results. The EA82 radiator is steep up outlet meeting with long metal pipe connected to water pump. Is it simply cut down EA81 series lower rad hose ? Heaps of thanks in advance for any hints on this one HNY 2 !

I have noticed the thermostat that was in my spfi EA82 manifold was a little taller and way heavier than a 'normal' thermostat out of these EA series. Did the spfi run a heavier duty thermostat or am I just lucky ?

on this one - no as I could not source the correct limiter to do as a spare, in order to retain original in case goes back to petrol. My other EA81 - brazed up the max ends of the slots, advanced initial timing to 14 ? and got just another 14 so a max of 28 total as suggested by gas dudes (and likely referring to 6's and V8's when they did so) My EA82T just gives it max advance until knock control cuts in - usually only under load on very hot days and hauls It is now pretty much completed ...with all the gaskets in place adding a bit to its height, still clears the underside of the bonnet better than its last set up. It also has room to add PCV hose to the top of the air filter casing. Need to wait a few weeks before it gets on the road to test. Not going to be the best comparison as it will be three months between drivng it with std EA81 intake and the wider insides of the EA82 spfi inlet manifold

Well jonas would be the best person to provide a picture of his end result due to not replacing/glueing plastic back in place. I have amate who has done the job - swung entire dash assy from one end, there are bolt downs near fuse panel and behind the vents for demister below windscreen. I have done Brumby dash removes two or three times EA81 models and is much the same, three 10mm head bolts below screen, one or two bolts holding dash assy to side of car, undo a few wire plugs taking digi pics of details as i went along, a few bendy wire loom holding loops, odd cable disconnect. 2 hours out, 2.5 back to running fine again. EA82 and XT series is scary to me, uninitiated at reassy anyway, pulled a few EA82 apart - with some violence

BRAT / EA81 rotors post about 1984 starting with the vented ones about 16mm ? thick have a 230mm dia, EA82 have a 242mm dia same thick Hat heights are what the trade measures , sit disc on flat like a hat, measure height and ask supplier....

assuming it is EA81 for starters , #1, #3 are LHD passenger side head, #2 & #4 are LHD drivers side. Looking at dizzy from the bumper bar, dizzy on your left, #1 lead comes from cap about top left quadrant of cap, #3 bottom left continues anti clock #2 , #4... Have you done the finger in spark hole to feel the compression on #1 come to a stop, see timing mark on flywheel about TDC 8 DBTDC and rotor is pointing towards top left quadrant and #1s lead post position? As far as weak spark - found a really poor spark once - feint yellow and google searches confirmed this would be the problem - when we found the real problem, still had weak yellow spark on cranking and she ran like a dream !

Thanks , just trying to match your XT halo repair quality. Secret in the LPG is its alleged 109 RON octane rating compared to the 91, 95 and 98 wet petrol choices we have. Many years ago when leaded petrol was compared to LPG mix of propane and butane, said to have only 80% the energy of petrol , volume for volume. So, to retain same -ish power - expect to use up to 20% more volume, and #1 it does, or did - until I added one leaning ring, fitted EA82 Y pipe and getting giggling great fuel economy and still driving well, powers well. This engine is only 30.000km since full flat top piston rebuild. Pistons were marked EA71, EA81 The valve seat issue - hardened seats for unleaded fuel and standard valves do the trick This is Subie LPG #3 of mine , first being my first Brumby EA81 that has done 250 - 300,000km on LPG no worries on . This one already LPG, just improving on things. I suffered a power loss after conversion due to the 20/60 cam grind felt only when loaded up or towing 300kg trailer up hills but EA82 Y pipe fixed that. Power loss on this EA81 minimal, just not chirping tyres like it did on petrol. Snorts like nothin' else sounds like a weber I believe ! #2 is an EA82T, draw through done about 80,000km so far and running up to 12 psi for brief moments and only in extreme hot days and mountain loads does it even tickle the knock sensor I monitor in dash. As for legality - all complianced ! 80l useable tank in one - got a bit shakey at 720kms the other day, gauge still showing a little bit left, did not fill to work out economy but happy since it used 70 litre +/- 2 litres for 540km for ten years ! 71 litre useable in the other ute, think sdan turbo EA82 has 72 litre capacity

early ones were flapper, 3 plug ecu with separate knock control module mounted between glovebox and outer body - you'll see two extra screws in door jamb when you open front passenger door, not on other models. Flapper afm, and are white plastic knock sensor that are two wires supposed to be shielded come from the knock control module KCM. G for green is neg and R for red wire ? is positive.I suspect those wires loose when car is running or ignition on, may just be feeding pos power and earth to the sensor. Green plastic KS are single wire from 4 plug ecu EA82, so makes me wonder if it is not just a spider been adapted to an early EA82 block - rather an entire spider engine dropped in ??? given the green sensor being there and not bothered to hook it up. I'd look into fitting the two wire white sensor check those wires and where they are from, whats in them when ign on and cross fingers. Those sealed black plugs often stik on sensor so well, butchers pull the wires out of the back of the plug while trying to pull plug off to pull engine - in a hurry - what else can you do ??

Here is a pic of how it is ..err...stacking up with my tricky little adaptor, an IMPCO CA125 mixer, and A3-32 adaptor sitting atop an EA82 spfi inlet manifold I managed to prise from the grips of Scott in Bellingham , export downunder..... Uploaded with ImageShack.us I have since added about 10mm of spacer tubing between the acc cable pull mount and manifold on longer bolts to improve the line of things And this is how I finally on third attempt, managed the clearance issue there is between the EA81 edizzy vac can and the water pipe for the EA82 thermostat housing section of the EA82 spfi inlet manifold. First two goes involved tapping the hole of the drilled out pipe location to 1/8" NPT to nicely take 1/8" BSPT fittings, now blanked off with a brass plug. Final method is a mounting tower for something topped with M6 thread. i reduced it in height with a 13mm drill bit and hacked off remainder, leaving nice thick solid boss to drill through, tap to NPT and screw in a M F 90 deg elbow in 1/8" BSPT, select 8mm barb for the hose, and viola! as they say. Takes the factory 7mm ID bypass hose without trimming, a little trim may be good.. Also real stoked to see a trial fit of the lower rad hose XX correction , it was a top hose from EA82 XX of an EA82 fit in reverse ? to the tight fit location of EA82 inlet thermostat housing to the EA81 MY radiator - looks impossible until it went on nicely Uploaded with ImageShack.us The reasons for doing this in the first place was primarily to have a more sturdy setup than my silicone hose sleeve between the mixer and Mitsubishi efi throttle body adapted to an EA81 inlet manifold I had prior> Additionally hoping to employ the vac advance benefits , which are often unplugged on propane coversions anyway. I have run vac advance on same EA81 before without issues. The issue this time around may be that spfis did not run vac advance anyway :oops: We did not get the spfi option down here, just mpfi with or without hair dryer - and carbies. Now that I think about it, NA mpfi did not use vac advance except the early XT 4 Vortex. I have a choice of three vacuum ports on the spfi throttle body to try anyway. May have port my own !

maybe try swap the temp sender unit.

Found my notes of EA82 DR 5 speeder into my Brumby - so may help reverse switch is on LHS of box 4WD dash light switch is at the rear at the top low 4WD dash light switch is on rhs of box MY 4WD dash light switch is at base of the 4 selector lever itelf so may be same for 78 ? Extend this wire to new loom Reverse wires , green/white trace and green /white trace 4WD low dash lite blue/red trace earth is black wire

bolts of correct length won't hurt to get it up and running, but may come undone - just think the stud method allows a tighter and more resist to rattling undone than bolt system. Somewtimes thinking is not my strong point The heater blower uses a clever little side tube that blows air back in on the electric motors brushes for cooling I'd think - comes with above warning - I have had rusty windscreen metalwork allow water to drop into the air ducting and the lowest point is the tube feed to the brushes and eventually stufs the motor bits. To fix this I removed the air feed tube to drain on the floor instead.

those three lll marks are an ingenious EA82 only thing I believe, no other manufacturer has done it ...it is the sweet spot of the valve springs having no resistance either way on the cams, so position the timing mark on the casing with the middle of the three and it is for setting belts only - at this point there is no spring trying to turn the engine over this way or that! Lets you get on with business rather than fight cam wheels, crank etc moving on you just when you don't want them to. First flat engine too ? First all alloy engine as well ? Watch out, the Suby bug has bit you