jono

some say at this stage to check your hubs drive splines first. Also seen a week old CV joint split in half at highway speed crippling vehicle until RWD selected

It depends on what you find - 8" or 9" clutch dia and matching flywheel. I found 8" behind my 4 speed hi/lo 4WD box on my EA81, and was able to keep the flywheel and pressure plate and had to purchase a clutch disc to match the splines of the late 86 make date EA82 L Series 4WD hi lo 5 speed. Here in Australia we had a thing sold as GM Holden Gemini in mid 70's made by Isuzu - a 1600cc 4 pot rear wheel drive in petrol or diesel. The petrols clutch disc was perfect for the job. I also modified the pedal box to retain EA81 pedal to connect to EA82 clutch cable, grind off the EA81 bracket. If you can make EA82 clutch pedal work you may get correct throw. Need to change tail shaft as well. Get a custom one piece or make up flat bar brackets to take the centre bearing tailshaft from an EA82

I think many utes had their AC fitted at the dealer, not the factory, of locally sourced kits , local components. Maybe if aftermarket AC install is still a live business , doubt it, they can find suitable part. Got a pic of your TX valve and where is it in the car ?

Does not look to need the manual with that diagram. I actually ran my turbo with one of the connectors undone, think it was the knock sensor plug with some other wires and not at the sensor. Ran fine. I had three vacs and all had holes - not good for your underpants when running propane - the hole feed boosted propane inside distributor cap , met a spark, went pooft, ask more of it, backfired and blew my intake ducting along the road. We have a company in Brisbane QLD that rebuilds the vac cans at about a third the price of new exJapan cans

Jono has been sitting on his pistons for a while, sourced from an engine building parts supply in Lakemba ,Sydney, Australia - Fabre 02.9758.1966 TIK # 1S920400 model # EA82T size 1.00 Parts no. 12006AA240 aha check this gen number !

You can't be that challenged surely ? You have opened the box and looked inside, got the diagram, well US diagram anyway. I don't think my 86 diagram has the altitude bit in the circuit even though it is for 84 models only. 22070 AA 011 think is the same number I have from US 22070 AA 002 I think is the Oz version I am not up on the GL10 features ....our EA82's in turbo version were either the RX - EA82T PT4WD DR 25splines, disc rear with sexy chequered interior or the GLTA EA82T with 3 speed JATCO PT 4WD, disc rear, Power steer, air, choc brown interior (luxury) , later GLTA's got the E4AT and of course the variety of Vortex engine packages Good idea on advance being different, the dizzy also employs boost retard in the vav advance can...

I have got the bits, even the pins to renew wiring in the plugs if need be, and that is the diagram , yep, I have a Denso knock module I think came from a New Zealand model, black plastic box casing , got a USA knock box via T'subaru and an Australian knock box of the Hitachi metal casing box. US and Oz numbers differ. I am curious as to the suggestion of knock control of non turbo ! Maybe for a pollution control state ? Quidam, are you running this system as a conversion from kno knock control ? That check terminal is a beauty - I have set it up to monitor knock sensoring in my EA82T GLTA L Series sedan (auto RX is best comparison) Running 12psi boost, it takes a hot day of 35C and some load before it triggers off the 1.7V reading towards 4.5V on the in dash (clock hole) permanent hook up

I am considering using the dizzy from the first series EA82T with three plugger ECU and separate knock control module, in a mongrel EA82 I have. Anyone done this swap ? Would need to swap in the four pinned module dizzy and its loom to KCM found beside the glove box, and also add its knock sensor. I have a block from a Nov 86 production L Series Touring Wagon carbied, fitted up with EA82T mpfi (+ EA82T exhaust valves and oil feed for turbo) heads and camshafts , mpfi inlet manifold and throttle body. Injector holes tapped and plugged. Fuel is LPG dedicated. I am thinking I can get best advance from the engine if I adopt the knock system and be non turbo for longevity on its compression. No idea what its CR is supposed to be

Definitely labeled and sold as EA82T, may also be interchanged with EA81T I wonder ? Being aftermarket they often need to take shortcuts to keep different part numbers down. I have rings running in my 1.00mm overbore EA81 - packaged as Volvo rings !

half inch ID heater hose does the immediate trick for the hose that carries air between the thermostat gadget and inlet manifold of an EA82 mpfi turbo inlet. I actually have mine blocked off with rubber water caps, just control fast idle by foot when cold.

3 plug ECU or 4 plug ? 1987 was a tricky year for some of us. I have a 1987 EA82T that was actually built in 9 , 1985 so it is 1985 stuff. Another 87 wagon was made late 86 for the 87MY so it was an 1987 model. 85/86 did not use resistors on injectors did they ? Isn't there a flow chart to follow to test each injector wiring ?

If it was just your flashers I'd say check the bulbs. I once had a bad spike due to a corroded fuse link that killed car to 10% , Limped to safety where it stopped. Many circuits were fried under dash. Little did I know or even suspect but all indicator bulbs blew - resulting in a buzz sound in the combo switch - this 1985 model did not have an external flasher can ! Only when I twigged that I was thinking old school (pulled reverse bulbs out of the sedan to see they were OK, not the indicator bulbs !!) The fronts in the bar were stripped threads, hard to access. As I added a confirmed working bulb to each corner of the circuit, the buzz stopped and indicator blink speed incrased to normal. Moving tach needle might suggest the circuit is getting its earth through the coil ?? What if you disconnected the coil wirs for a moment to see if that stops the bounce in the needle when not running ? Have you done any electrical changes? I recently found an unused three pin plug under the dash and used it to power something, and earth it. Since I have troubles with getting headlights to go on while the problem lights up indicator dash greens, the fan speed switch operates the dash lights. If the greens not on, my headlights will go on.If the problem is present, greens glow, headlights not come on, I pull cigar fuse - sorts my problem, can get headlights and replace fuse - all is OK ????? This is a weird one because the tail lights use an earth switching, I know stop circuit uses power switching - diodes found under dash of Subaru , mainly mid blue plastic lumps - indicates we may need to add diodes to add on electricals.....

I used to have a raspy note from 2" from the end of the Y pipe and just a sports muffler at the rear of my EA81. Then, on the weekend I fitted an EA82 Y pipe for its extra performance. It was with a cat converter - instantly lost all raspiness and exhaust noise but 'gained' the rattly sound of many EA82's and I think it is loose cat material . I dunno what your answer is as later models have cats too, but they have more valves and to make it sound like a later model turbo .......

I had some 007 style smoke plumes going up steep hills at speed of course (so, it has to be EA82T ) and it turned out to be some sort of bad compression in one pot - 60 psi half what it should be. From the way the engine flew so smoothly and powerfully you would never pick it. Low compression, blowby, crankcase pressurising and going uphill - oil was being pushed up the maze of the coverplate at the rear and out the PCV rear breather of mpfi EA82's and getting into the intake system. A ctach can worked - at catching hot browny black bubbling oil. Maybe try a compression test ?

Aftermarket piston for EA82T 1.00mm oversize Uploaded with ImageShack.us Side view, may see round oil holes Ivan has mentioned the later WRX 2.0 pistons are better for the round holes rather than slots Uploaded with ImageShack.us These are TK or TiK pistons QS9000 ISO 9002 I scored a few years back and not needed yet !EA82's been too good

Well, it is only good for such things like ....an ash tray ! This time, my viewer showed me the heat tab - al I can see is the glue at the back of it, heat tab centre has melted out from the looks of things !

The badge on the MY/EA81/BRATS front wing/mudguard/fender side recess says SUBARU Do we have anyone with acces to those computer linked sign routers or the like that could make something much th same from aluminium that reads BRUMBY in same font ? Same number of similar spaced letters could be a cool money spinner to send out to Australian based BRUMBY owners

Wow ! Haynes manuals must be better than I thought That detail looks as good as a factory manual !

What measure subaru items do you have - as a starting point would not hurt you giving some measures I think I have measured 125mm from spring perch to bottom mount hole centre on a Sube strut/shock for rar of EA82

FWD or 4WD Loyale ? Do you US guys actually have Loyale badges on the bodywork ? We don't down south. 2WD rear ends are different to 4WDs and would get different attention. Sedans don't have suspension bump stops like the wagons do - other than the ones fitted to the rear shock shaft, crumble and disintergrate over the years. I found factory sedan rear shocks to have 9.5mm spring wire diameter, RX 4WD sedan 10.5mm and wagons 11 or 11.5mm 4WD wagon springs in a 4WD sedan rear were too high, too bouncy, threw away my 9.5 FWD rear coils before I got a chance to try as at the time was hoping to lower my rear of 4WD sedan, looked at the spring and thought it to be the same (did not measure wire thickness at the time ) I am now content with factory height of the RX spring in the rear. You can play with the different coil seat to bottom bolt hole differences to get different heights and ride. Three different ones came on EA82 models

yes, the intake has a coolant passage on the inner most side of each head. I have seen a few aftermarket ones go yuck and leak, sean the off genuine one of 20 years old also leak into a port. You can also get a freeze plug in the head seep into the sump oil and maybe burn off as white smoke (aka steam) . Pull the oil fill cap off first thing after an overnight cool down and look at the underside to see if moisture in form of condensation droplets on the caps underside. You may be a contender for a cooling system additive quick fix. The gaskets may not fail as such, just get loose, go hard with age, or alloy corrodes and lets it past

smaller alternator was the other thing to fit under the bonnet line - yet I have a Bosch unit adapted in to it. No clearance issues

Those things are usually an aluminium washer with something like, if not, solder. I tested one out years ago ona Kroll heater and watched it suddenly shimmer, go shiny and melt out - just like solder does. OK, Not turbo pistons , have forgotten what they look like. Just running out to an 86 carb block , was in my Nov 86 make date EA82 L Series Touring Wagon with carby - it has the threaded hole, just no vent pipe behind it - the hole is there waiting to be drilled out

a spray of some sort of lubricant down the clutch cable from engine bay end, behind the rubber gator with a nozzle hose thing in the spray end. A lanolin product worked well for me for some time

flywheels on spiders I have had, came with standard EA82 timing marks and belt align marks on the flywheel. just think it is harder to read flywheel so they produced the marker plate bolted to the water pump. Pointer NLA exJapan either. If you are just adding the manifold , the pulleys don't need swapping over surely ? Spider bellhousings are different to EA82 and EA82T non spider- to the keen eye . Timing marks are on the pointer plate, one cut on the pulley