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intake manifold gaskets are a good thing to replace with genuine articles - at your convenience, order and install. Reason being is water passage in this area, can leak outside or inside down inlet ports. EA82 also has 20mm wlech /freeze plugs in the heads, three a side that can leak water to oil space of under rocker covers Be prepared for the last inlet to head bolt snapping and need redrilling and rethreading - the bolt tends to build up corrosion between manifold and bolt itself

It can help that the engine is at operating temp when removing the spark plugs - just be aware of hot engine components and bare skin. The heat helps with the plugs threads release. I use anto sieze grease on the threads on install. I just fixed a low speed , with load miss - it was a 1.0mm plug gap on one plug instead of 0.8mm of the others Yours sounds more like fuel filter, fuel line s can crud up inside too with rusty stuff. I have found to blow backwards through open ended lines with compressed air has blown out said crud and fixed my problem

or contact 1111giles on ausubaru.com for his fibreglass repros shipped out of the UK - rust resistant

Has anyone got a link to a genuine workshop manual test procedure. I think Tweety has just three wires to test on his spfi air flow meter. Surely Subaru did a nice flow chart for testing the input and output of these wires ?

If you go the mpfi EA82 NA engine the turbo side head needs an oil supply hole drilled and tapped to M10 1.25 or maybe it is 1.5 pitch, must check, it is coarser thread, to accept the factory banjo bolt. Also needs an oil return hole drilled to take the return pipe or spike the sump! Timing needs to be reduced about 8 degrees initial to make up for the increase in compression ratio from 20 to 10 for 3 plug ECU's not sure how you set the 4 plug ECU timing reduction. When an EA82T left the factory it also had a small difference in exhaust valves , but most aftermarket supply same for all EA82 As for pump, it helps to tap pump body with a hammer while someone cranks engine over.

was just thinking same - those door switches can be tricky, tricky to work out how they work - I have blown a fuse by trying to extracate the switch with door open - ZAP ! The do have a connector further inside the panels - can be tricky to access. On second thoughts, maybe the EA81's had power running in door switches....

get it on some loose ground and plant it to see if you have AWDrive .

Got a towbar with electrical connector? They can cause grief if worn against body or get mud or moisture in htere ...

Never seen a dash mounted ignition switch in a Subaru. Got pics to share please?

no ned to oval the inlet to head holes, unless you have an oval hole drill - just a larger diameter round drill bit in each hole both ends, makes a big difference

Funny you say that, coz many EA81 owners would love to have the Special EA81S that runs inlet valves in the middle with twin carbs and a few better internals I suspect - I think S is for Screamer

You have ignition module in the dizzy instead of points ?? I find if they are on their way out they tend to just give mild hiccup under load, intermiitently, then completely give up, possibly give a start once cooled down, maybe not. Had this happen twice now, each time replaced or renewed the IM $40- $45 in the US. A third time this was happening I shouted the 400,000km old coil n early retirement, renewed rather than swap in another used IM and the slight hiccup under load remained. new high tension leads for sparks and coil fixed the problem Have seen just one time, a dud lead cause a tacho to bounce about.....

Uploaded with ImageShack.us 400,000 ! kilometres mind you! The original engine out of this beast is running elsewhere , clocking up 500,000 km total without more than a clean and new seals and pan gasket

Firing order is 1324 anti clock rotor rotation, some get the normal inline 4 firing order mixed up with Subes flat4 firing order

Got 50,000 miles on my welded heads

Get some kind of engine metal temperature monitor like enginewatchdog.com TM2 for that extra piece of mind. Has an alarm that will scream at you if it even thinks of overheating on you. Mine was reading just 5C above what I thought was normal, found coolant was just half litre low - averted overheat damage. Use genuine head gaskets. Just completed 80,000km on my EA82T fitted with welded heads, genuine HG's, timing belt kits and new seals, new HLVA's and new from Japan valve springs. Love the old EA82T's

The 85/86 EA82T sedans nonXT had a white plastic plug with black wire, yellow? stripe/trace that is a test plug - remains disconnected. At ignition on only will have 5.0 Volts, engine running 1.7V until a knock to block with detonation or simulated with a hammer - can jump to 4.5V This it ?

tires and their ply separation can cause grief as you describe. A malfunctioning CV joint inner can also cause a wobble on cruise, fade with torque and be an intermittent thing. My EA82 sedan was pulling and vibrating, after tires inflated with a badly maintained pressure gauge in friends shop - gave 45 to tires with set max of 36. Tires bubbled up - ply separation killed them. Near new tyres from a wrecker solved vibes and steering pull - aligned with a tape measure between rims on stands !

I just know you have to be careful with the lights you fit. I also have a quad light beast that had really good low beam until I found it was all four all the time. The inner high beam inserts had a structure at the back for replaceable H4 bulbs that earthed from one pin to the body via the metal base the bulb sat in and the spring retainer - drove me nuts the night before presenting for roadworthy inspection , swapped switch and all sorts of checking. I ended up insulating the spring retainer with heat shrink then installed quartz sealed beam high beam units that just had the pins set in the glass - insulating things. I have also learnt that to add a relay to lights and horns on these old Subarus to not only just tap into the positive for the relay but to use the same original earth/ground/neg- side of the original wiring circuit to avoid problems. I also found a low 1.4V coming from the high beam circuit when just on low beam in an EA82 L series when I hooked up driving lights like yours. I ended up putting two basic diodes in line (series) in the relays trigger wire from the high meam circuit to reduce the Volts to a non trigger Voltage , ntil I actually had high beam on. Diodes are said to absorb 0.7V, I found I needed to to get it down about 0.5V. Very sensitive relay trigger. Some also use diode protected relays to prevent any feedback, diode inside them. Loks like your headlight is having its earth or power sapped by something...

Good. I made notes when I did mine. Used 4.0mm thick aluminium plate to make a ringed spacer, rather than just washers. Emphasis on this post is the 4.0mm

I don't think you will be happy if you go with the order you listed as once you have dumped it as far as, fitted up a big as exhaust and go to shove in the rear diff and all its bits that don't all just bolt into AUS delivered FWD XT4's - moustache bar mounts to chassis has no holes or captivated nuts inside? You will likely find th exhaust was not made to clear all the rear diff and suspension components and once low as the angle of the rear drive axles may be so low, the angle is wrong for long life. I have an april 1986 XT FWD EA82 turbo too! I found the FWD box stubs to drive front wheels are 25 spline on the factory fitted box. Green metallic with brown interior - ooh yum Also run 10/85 EA82 turbo sedan with no intercooler and 12psi boost - rarley sees 12 for more than 10 seconds, and is set more to avoid a fluffing that used to happen at max 8 psi setting. I have done 50,000 miles so far on a part time 4WD dual range 5 speed box with the 23 spline stubs on the front with no problems. If you fit one of these boxes with 23 need to swap in 23 spline DOJs at least. Expect to find the gearshifters of sedan or wagon 5MT DR box not to line up best with hole in floor of XT, may need some fiddling and consolation from in here With the 3 plug ECU, flapper afm A82T's they use a knock sensor control box mounted above the carpet of the trans tunnel below the radio. Yet to find the test connector on my XT, but have the test connector white single plastic not connected to anything below the coil - gives off 1.7V with engine running and happy - find this wire at that voltage and you can start to monitor your knock sensor working with a muiltimeter for starters, hook up a timing light to watch timing marks, use back end of a wrench to knock the engline block with a 'tap' and you should see DMM hit max of 4.5V and see timing retard about ten degrees, then see it correct back to its factory 20. If this works you can monitor any knock and get an idea if your boost is too much knock wise ,not combustion temp wise, but it is all related. As far as getting a new clutch in so you can drive it, these FWD turbo XTs share same clutch as to drive a 5MT 4WD box. As far as where it gets its power is not always cam related either. Many fail to consider the size of the pipe just under the turbo, the smaller it is ~36mm ID gives earlier stronger boost, where the ones with about 40mm ID are a bit slower to spool up but take it quickly and readily to the 6500 rpm mark before you know it

I put a 24 or 25mm replacement on the front of my MY 1984 EA81 Brumby without one on the rear , tarmac handling with 50 series tyres is excellent No one mentions fitting a rear bar requires at least the angled trailing arms from donor car or make brackets to hold the rear sway bar to the correct points. The bar off a FWD will interfere with the diff set up of a 4WD, generally won't fit.

GMB brand is often found inside many different branded boxes here in Aus and I have never had to replace a GMB brand pump - only ever replaced genuine - answer your question ?

Can't see that Subaru would change things that much between the years and models. If it helps, a few years earlier the EA82 L Series ECU with three plugs 85 and 86 models it was a simple ground or not grounded pin on the ECU. What is it doing that makes you aware it thinks it is still an auto?

ah, ventured back in here a bit late. Yes Bennie, see my join date Ever so helpful in translation , thanks Mark. I had been a bit confused when someone simply referred to a model as EA81 Results of my search was factory RX EA82T L series got these yellow daubed rear coils and have been suitable to fit into the rear of 4WD XT4/6 after air bags removed.