jono

up the top, under the bonnet you wil see two bolts that hold the strut top in place. This has a rubber bushing, bearings were in L Series, with some slippery style washers. Not saf to drive at speed ? I'd say not safe to drive at all. The 83 4WD cam with renwable style strut inserts whereas 84 swapped to non serviceable struts buut definately they'd use sam strut top mount through all MY series, just before you pull apart note how the rubber bulk of the mount is visible to the rear of the egg shaped hole under the bonnet on 4WD, Van and PSteered 2 WD models the mounts metal not visible until out has markings and an arrow that faces forward to help. Spring compressor tols are a must for when you undo top bolt the spring has terrific force - enough to maim, or at least break you or something. Really find three are needed, sold in pairs.

i have played with EA82T EGR's. They have a solenoid or two depending on manifold, that control the vacuum on mpfi's anyway. Carbies also use same not sure what is over ride control if no ECU. But they are designed to only work with vacuum , and there is not much vacuum around when you are after power so the knocking thing is debunked I think. My playings with found operated only betwen about 1 to 10 inches of vacuum. I T pieced a vac linein caboin to a spare EGR and held little finger in that GR to feel when it worked. ECU controlled are also supoosed to cut EGR out until at operating temp and not at idle, nor op above 45kph ! Yours might be gunked up and not sealing closed properly. The solenoids can stick open or closed and easily tested on a battery to hear for healthy ones clicking in and out

Think I see normal headlight lenses. What is a corner marker ? Indicator light ? AUS did not get the rear fog light in place of LHS reverse light. Not seen headlight washers here either

CONTROL V'd from my subaruxt post Wondering if anyone else has done what I have to monitor the test socket below the coil of 85 86 flapper style ??? Starting to think no XT came out with first gen EA82T with flapper style afm and the 3 plug ECU though - refering to my 85 sedan. I have temporarily used a multimeter just taped to the dash, now fitted a voltage readout unit from ebay that is capable of reading the 1.7 to 4.5 V range for this task. Does anyone know if/where any XT4 has a socket to test same ? I have had multimeter under bonnet with tiing light hooked up, engine running and tapped block with solid extension bar and saw the DMM go from 1.7 V - normal operation to 4.5V when the timing is suddenly pulled back from 20 down to 10 DBTDC and with no further mischievous knocking, timing steps back to 20DBTDC. I have been running this for a month now and never seen the Volts change under load, even with a 250kg trailer hooked up and loaded up with a few hundred more kilos. Thinking the LPG is pretty good for turbo with its suggested RON (AUS) of 109

That link confuses the heck out of my browser and Google Hello, or should I say g'day ? Not sure how the italics happened, somewhere around the left hand side of the keyboard, control, shift or windows button ? Gone ! Looking in from a foreign country with a few LPG subes and found there is no kit as such, you need to find what fits. It is tricky to fit IMPCOs simple mixer on a standard EA81 inlet manifold inplace of the petrol carby to go dedicated straight LPG, unless you have a lift ??. I have done a temporary fit up and not most happy but it works and SNORTS the small air filter sits atop the mixer. A tank sits just behind cabin on the tray - 64litres useable. A Cobra or J converter and lock off is where jack used to live. Did this one in 2009. I also have another lpg dedicated EA81 (ten years now) with the twin hitachis used as the throttle only, a 100x50 mm square metal tube I made, sits atop both, about 200mm long - is fed from the front side by an IMPCO mixer I mounted on the AC bracket - no AC fitted. Cobra or J converter lives where jack was also. 80 litre useable tank sits same, behind cabin on tray. The filler valves just roughly mountd high on tray sides where they are protected. Have been meaning to install 90 degree filler in place of petrol filler, where it should be . A universal steering rack boot is used as a flexy air duct to the air box mounted in corner behind LHS headlight - air enters box from indicator light hole in guard. Indicator light now lower down. An easier way now would be to use IMPCO positive pressure converter Cobra/J and a simple mixer barby style ring to install just above carby in air stream - a reason why many go for Euro style positive pressure converters - the ring is easier to fit in rather than adapt up a simple IMPCO mixer Also run an IMPCO L converter, 200 mixer on an EA82Turbo in mixer feeds LPG vapours and air to nice spinning turbo, with most of the 3 plug ECU plugs pulled out, just run emmissions control plug in an 85 L Series sedan that was an auto version of the RX - GLTA. And just about to post up elsewhere on my knock sensor control monitoring LPGSCB - go get picasa free from gogle has resize functions am sure or imageshack can do it too , i think. Know more about lpg than pic resizes What kind of power ? I have forgotten what the power of petrol or gasoline feels like and don't care, as LPG is better for lower revving engines like our EA series, smooth crsip torque. I went for one fuel to avoid extra bits to buy, fit and maintain so get better reliability, based on experience. Having seen so many dual fuel set ups installed so untidy with old style like IMPCO, extra switches, wiring to play up, never have a wire chart with car for the cjhanges etc. One fuel, one tune. You have to tun to a compromise with older cars if you go dual fuel. I played with my mechanical advance slots in the dizzy reducing max advance to total no more than 28 degrees. Static is set at about 14 now, with just another 14 from inside the dizzy on my older conversion, newer one yet to do anything in dizzy, runs fine If you go IMPCO someone needs to fabricate to fit things. Other systems with gas mixer ring on top of the carby between std air filter box won't allow bonnet to shut. A remote filter with mixer ring in air stream between filter and carby top will work. I have some 2 1/2 feet between my gas carb 125 IMPCO and the twins Conversion will not give you same fuel use litre for litre, liter for liter, gallon for gallon. Expect to use 20% more LPG than petrol/gasoline. I use about 105 to 11 litres per 100km in my EA81's and about 12 l per 100km in the turbo sedan more when towing 250 to 400kg I still drive as if I just got my licence too , sometimes...see you are a little older and may be more sedate, maybe not ? I made savings with all three conversions by buying used tanks within test date or retested , up to $100 for a tank instead of 4 to 500. Used IMPCO stuff is best rekitted if you must go used, but $60 for a Cobra or so ? $60 for a mixer ? A lot of stuff can be fabricated and installed with just the gas lines to be made and fitted up by a licenced lpg installer - check local laws- but install it as per requiremnts like right size tank brackets and its anti pull through washer brackets behind etc

By comparison, if you were after the four terminal module for the 85 86 mpfi Turbo Hitachi distributor and in Australia the Subie asking price , not much change from a thousand bucks !

Has Coxy left you on your own on this Adrian ? I now see the point in disconnecting turbo from the fix attempt of solvent through things. Thinking...if you poured solvent in spark plug holes, drill some small drain holes in the exhaust cross over pipes to be welded up later..as a drain option for the solvent so it does not get near turbo. Theory then would be need 1.8 litres of solvent 450ml at a time ???

PPO had it dealer serviced for 20 years then PO supplied no records for 4 years. Every mild steel piece in the cooling system that could corrode or rust out did. If the dealer serviced it as specified and book stmped it should be as pristne as day one like my other 87 Subaru!!

?? Legacy ? 1991? That would be EJ powered Subaru wouldn't it? We called them Liberty and are the generation after the L Series 1985 to 1994? with the EA82 engines. Thanks for trying. BTW, what do you call your Subarus made between 1985 and 1989, the square lines ones with EA82 engines? I thought you all called them L Series Jono

Hi there, I have posted this on subaruXT.com forum as well, also , thanks to Numbchux for hammering home the shock height differences with his Miata shocks depicted !! Over on ausubaru.com we are working on identifying factory fitted rear coil springs of XT4, and various L Series models, sedans 2WD and 4WD. 3 door and 4WD wagons. I'd like some input from this great website The factory springs always come in black We are finding colour dabs of paint added to the coil springs 2nd and third coil from the top, and suspect it is applied to identify which set up it is for factory assembly, as to what spring rate and shock rate/ length it is made up for. The top brackets of some also have colours wiped as ID marks We have found wire thicknesses of 9.90mm and suspect this is for rear of FWD sedans and possibly FWD XT4.Free height 285mm Have found one of these, it has one orange paint dab next wire thickness up is 10.40mm with a yellow paint dab, free height of 285mm, suspect these are from 4 the door RX as we have about four or five confirmations. Uploaded with ImageShack.us The rest seem to be 4WD wagon rear springs with not one colour dabs but two. Green / orange and pink (faded red?) /orange. They are 10.80mm wire thickness Uploaded with ImageShack.us Confusion sets in when looking at FSM with specs indicating we in Oz, got either 160lb/in springs for all sedans or 196 lb/in for all 4WD wagons. We did not get FWD wagons as far as I know, nor did we get 3 door sdans . hatchies. Our listngs show your 3 door hatchies got 180 lb/in springs - giving us 3 different rated springs for the L Series and XT. By specs, we in Oz should only ever had two spring ratings and we now have found three different wire sizes so likely three different spring ratings. The RX turbo sedans with four doors got shocks with valve ratings near twice as hard as all other shocks in the range, OK, twice sedans, 30% more than wagons.Starting to think our Aus delivered RX got same 180lb/in springs your 3 door 4WD hatchies got without the factory manual writers being told! At least two US based RXs have confirmed yellow dab springs. I wonder if 3 door RXs and 4WD 3 door owners can confirm they also have yellow dab springs?? We also got rear shocks with 3 differient heights between bottom bolt hole and coil seat - this gives a spring a different working rate and different ride height. We got 130mm, 142mm and 154mm. Also with early 85 models we got 140mm with adjustable 15mm steps up to 155mm and 160mm What I would like from the rest of the Subie world is for you to swing underneath the back end , or sift through your spares and let us know if you have factory black coils fitted, what model year and type of vehicle FWD or 4WD, sedan, wagon, hatch or XT and importantly what colour paint dab, one or two Thanks heaps Jonno

I am looking for an idea of what L Series non wagons got rear coil springs with a yellow paint dab on them. I know wagons got a combination of two colours on the sets in orange, green or pink (faded red?) These wagon springs are too pumped for my needs. They are rated at about 200 lb wheres the rest of the factory choices were about 160, and 180 lb for the three doors I suspect the L Series RX or FWD sedans, XT4 or 3 door RX' got them. All these springs are factory, black with ID paint dabs on top few coils and often visible with a quick look. Someone, Fujifan on ausubaru.com has spotted yellow and orange dabs on a FWD L Sedan mpfi. Has anyone in Oz got a spare pair? Info wanted from anywhere in the www thanks

fuel pressure tested? Specs are about 36 psi. With my 4GLTA I T pieced a gauge in after fuel filter, taped it on the windscreen with 36 psi on it, took it for a drive, and as soon as boost came on, bogged down, pressure dropped to 10 psi. nw pump fixed it! I once fixed a Triumph TR6 2500 pi - they are mechanical imjection - whole car had been rebuilt from ground up, went OK, sat around in a show room for a long time, then never start again. While cranking it over there was a whap,whap, whap like a dog tail wagging against the rear inside guard. It was the fuel pressure return line pulsing. Here in the boot was a T pieced fuel pressure regulator with springs and shims and a dodgy little O ring, found similar in a Holley rebuild kit, screwed it all together - owner claimed it had never gone so well. Nice to know his brother, my old boss, was a Triumph specialist - and I fixed it

Original EA81 fitted to 01/92 makedate Brumby, only solid lifters sold in Oz 074839 Cannot see a month / year cast into this block either , usual method of finding age