waimaks

Weeell, did a compression test, 140, 140, 130, 130. Or there abouts. So That seems kinda spot on I think. The thermoswitch thing is now shorted so the electric fan works. I have put a windscreen squirter on the bonnet that I stole off Keltiks honda, Seeing as there wasn't anywhere to put one, this one is kinda *custom*, works and looks ok though. Now, the real issue, the engine! Two distributor leads weren't quite as attached as they could have been. At the same time I scratched and cleaned the coolant sensor contacts as best I could. They woo! It started, no throttle needed, first crank perfectly! It seems to run pretty good now, still a little hesitation, but doesn't die after 4000rpm as much as it used to. It was kinda hard to tell how it would have gone on the road as we'd replaced the shocks with two bits of wood till I can get some replacements. And on top of all that, I reakon the only things its needing now to pass its inspection is the rust which won't take much, and the shocks, which leads to my next question.... These things....They are poked! Like some sorta pogo stick on wheels.... Now, someone in the original thread said they were RX struts-springs etc etc. And they really mess up the way the car sits. My question is this. What would be my cheapest option to get the thing to sit, and ride properly? Just new struts? RX or XT ones, Or new struts with RX or XT springs aswell. Keep in mind, RX's and XT's are uber rare, so junk yard bits are hard to find. I will have to ask how illegal would be to cut the RX springs to work better with some new XT struts. As usual, All opinions-suggestions welcome, And THANKS all who put info in to get it running right again, Lets hope it lasts!

I had a quick glance in-around mr disty yesterday, no noticeable play in the shaft etc. Just a bit up and down, That seems normal though. Also, keep in mind we think #3 might have very minor HG troubles, but thats not important right now... It was going this afternoon....Just the usual slight splutter-hard starting-and uber bouncy shocks. Also, which way would we adjust the timing for lower octane gas, Yea I'm cheap....

EWha? HOW did that happen?

A slight up-date..... Started draining gas, was, clean clean clean, Got a bit impatient (i know, i know), and didn't do the WHOLE lot. Started up on what was left, ran O-K, well better than it has.... Took 'er for a spin, second radiator fan didn't kick in at all I believe, did boil out the overflow just a tad, but not as bad as it could have done. Theres still a steamy smell in the exhaust, and a few bubbles under the rad cap, but I reakon, with the electric fan goin wouldn't have got as hot. I'm gonna continue to attempt to check the timing, and do compression test this weekend anyway. Just to make sure it's all in check. Now, it still requires a full foot of throttle to get it started, hot or cold, and then it'll splutter for a few seconds, and settle into normal routines, only hesitates a little bit off idle. What could be causing this? The ECS light did flash once, for a millisecond type of thing. As usual, sorry for the long winded post, And all suggestions short of an overhaul are very welcome. Thanks all:)

Damn looks like you had fun! I want a road trip now!

Found it!

I like it! Gives me new hope for my XT, It WILL live again!

My XT *had* them, but got wagon shocks swapped in. My guess is that the replacements were to expensive for most.

Maaaan, I really like those numbers! I think a trip to japan is in order!

Behold the power, mystery and awesomeness of the almighty turbo-charged EA-82! Ahh too many vaccum hoses! Grarr, I like the ea-81 better..... Its too wet outside to bother trying anything right now.... I may have to take you up on that compression tester ben, Dad might have one round abouts, but if he don't its good to know you've got one handy. Ill keep this posted on what on earth it ends up doing.

Thanks! I'll work on getting the gas all proper before I get too far into it. Now, to find a compression tester aswell!

Wow, small world huh!Do you frequent NZ? If you are ever in Waimana again, look out for the beige gen one brat and silver xt, The only ones in the district! Good luck with the hub it seems!

This doesn't help you fix it sorry, but can't it just be dis-connected?

Alright, its a kinda long story so bare with me please, I'm gonna try and explain it all from square one so anyone that is better at this than me can 'diagnose' the thing. I brought a 1986 Vortex (XT) turbo 4x4 about a month or two back with a new member Keltik, a friend of mine. See related topics if you like, Ill probably go over them for the most part anyway. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53391 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53299 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52945 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53254 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53279 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53041 OK, I think that is the lot Now, since then the Vortex is in my possesion fully, I swapped Keltik his halve of the vortex for a honda....which has continued to run better and lap up all his beatings....and kinda tick me off at the same time.:-\ When we got the Vortex it was *running* so to speak, roughly, but it went well enough for us to think we'd give it a go. Now....It had been parked for approx 3 to 5 years before we found it... After some fresh gas, injector cleaner, new battery terminals (old ones nearly non exsistant), get the oil level back to where it belongs (about 3 times too much we guessed) After this and a bit of a thrashing, it came pretty right, and even made it into town, only to fail its inpection. This is where I took over from Keltik It was running well enough then, Nothing a good service and more thrashings couldn't fix I thought. Now I'm just gonna start throwing all the problems in the wind and hope you guys can make some sence.... Had been starting not too badly, required full throttle and a bit of cranking to get going. Had damp feeling exhaust gases when it was running, and some slight gunge/rust and bubbles in radiator....worrying eh:-\ Would splutter a bit after a run... the runs weren't long, so I was normally home by then anyway.... After a mild flushing of the cooling system... Lots and lots of cranking with foot in carpet.... No start.... All plugs fouled...They always are in this thing.... Clean Plugs...Still no start.... Tow start with Keltiks honda (wimpers) Runs on three or two cylinders...Badly ... Not impressive Back at the house, Still not starting right... Remove Spark lead from cylinder closest to the turbo (#3?) Starts with foot flat in the carpet, spluttering, then cleans up and runs well for 3, Better than it was anyway. Stop the car and put lead back, Starts with full throttle again, revs freely, doesn't miss much, bout one min later starts to splutter again, looses a cylinder or two. Repeat from remove spark lead if you want it to run again. This is about where I gave up on it this afternoon, I had guessed I had a mild headgasket problem, but thought it wouldn't be quite so severe without lots of oil-water-steam-overheating etc. Also...Most of the old gas should be sorta gone by now, but I realized I've been putting 91 in it and the owners manual states 96 only.... The timing hasn't been done either, I plan on doing it asap. I'm sure theres more things I should be putting in the equation, but I can't remember, and its big enough as it is. Probably un-related, but when it was running O-K for a few mins, going down the road, the fuel gauge dropped and the empty light came on at the same time as it splutterd and died.... I am sooo sorry for the longness....This has got me and Keltik stumped ANY COMMENTS AND SUGGESTIONS VERY WELCOME AND APPRECIATED!!

Both axels turn but only one wheel? I'm no expert either, but that does sound like something inbetween axle and wheel-hub etc, and not in the gearbox. Good luck! Got any parts cars near by?

I'm pretty sure even if it was previously RHD the shifting pattern would be the same as LHD. I'm not familiar with the pattern you discribe and I'm in a right hand drive country. Nice going on getting the car though. I'm interested more specs on the supercharger.

My XT HAD the air adjustables:mad:They got replaced with something else by someone else...... I'm in New Zealand also

Me thinks your M key died after "im"

I bet they make it go faster!

Or get a big ricey 12000rpm one that blocks your view and blinds you when its abnormally huge shift light goes off at the justys awesome redline:banana: Yeah or not.....Pillar guages? On my Brat I put my tacho at the bottom of the pillar on the dash, easy to see and not in the way? Just throwing some ideas out....

Alright, Got er done this afternoon without much drama, the boot isn't exactly the same, but looks like it'll do the job OK... Thanks Skip!

This thread kicks rump roast! Now I have a little proof that the ea-81 does actually enjoy this stuff. No more mates telling me that the Brat runs a little rough cause I give it too much ***************e... 5½+k sounds nasty though, I rarely go above there... I love these things!

Ah, so I've gotta take the inner cv off and to bits to change the outer boot? Thanks muchly, I will get onto it when I get home from school this afternoon.

My 81 Brat--About 4 or 5 months The Turbo Vortex XT --- like 3 weeks.....

Alright, I'm not too great on all the correct terminology but I'll try. The story is sort of as follows..... On Thursday I noticed grease all around the inside of the wheel arch (right front), Sure enough, a small split and grease flying everywhere. Friday afternoon I asked at the local Subaru parts agent how difficult it would be to do myself and how I would sorta go about it. I buy one replacement boot kit. I thought Id make a start on it this afternoon with the help of my haynes manual. So I've taken the bottom balljoint off the swingarm/strut, taken the steering ball joint off, Slid the boot up the axel out of the way for the moment, taken the nut on the outer side of the hub(I'm guessing it holds the stub axel in place), might have taken a few other things off to move round a bit easier, nothing to mad though. Around here the Haynes manual tells me that axel boot replacements aren't condoned by Subaru and to take it to the dealer....Nice.... The dude in the garage told me that by taking the bottom balljoint off and the nut on the end of the axel, the axel pulls out of the stub axel/hub thing and I could change the boot this way, without having to remove the whole axel.. Anyway, The current situation is this: How do I get the axel out of the joint to take off the old boot and put another one? Its an EA-81 1981 Brat Front right outer CV Boot. SOrry if this doesn't make much sence and is long but I and my dad are both a bit stumped as to how it comes to bits... JOHn