babyfacefitz

The motor does run better. Though I just ran it for 20 secs. Before I replaced the tensioner I barely made it home. It would die and had a "rattle" at low rpm. That sound is gone and just my suspected piston slap. I'm going to get the radiator on and top off my coolant. I assume there's a tranny fluid cooler line too. I plugged those 1/4 lines with ear plugs but when I ran it it looked like 2 qts came out in 20 secs. thanks Mike

The timesert worked. It did have some play in it so I used some jb weld to seat the insert. Then I put the bolt/pulley on hand tight to center if needed before the jb weld set. Got a snap on torque wrench and got timing belt on. The motor runs better so I think the tensioner might have been needed. But I still have a pretty loud ticking sound. A couple of months back my HG went and I limped home watching my temp gauge. Ever since then there's a cold start strong ticking sound especially 2k-3k rpms. I've got a video of the motor now. Should I use a youtube link? do you guys recommend I put radiator back on and just live with the sound? thanks

Thanks for the steps to avoid air lock on my coolant system. The timing belt is new to me but burping the coolant isn't. I got a set of Timesert coming to me. Is there room for the timesert or should I use a helical instead? thanks

I got the fans and over flow out of the way already. Thanks on the bolt info. I've got a torque wrench but got too cocky and was rushing it a bit. Drills straight I assume is real important on this idler pulley.

any idea what my thread size is on that smooth idler pulley?

Stripped the block! Everything went ok till….putting in last 14 mm bolt on the smooth idler pulley. Then i torque down AND STRIPPED the block. I've been torqueing for years and know an idea on ft/lbs but maybe using my 30" breaker bar didn't help. should I repair with Helicoils? Looking around I see there's another product Timeserts. I looks like I might get a rt. angle drill or should I end up removing the radiator. thanks Michael

thanks for the tips Tom, Gary, Mike, and texan.

Is a good idea to just get a new crank shaft pulley bolt, in case the old one is stretched? Should I use or not use the thread locker that came with the kit. It recommends using it on the crank shaft bolt. thanks guys, I'm tackling this sat. Michael

Can that crank pulley be broken with a three foot breaker bar with a cheater? Or would I need an air impact? thanks

thanks guys, I plan on doing the whole kit. The full gates kit @ $130 on amazon, only $30 more than jus the tensioner. I just got a new belt and water pump on it two months ago, so'll I'll keep one belt for next time. No codes but my familiar P0420. I shouldn't done more research and got a new tensioner on two months ago and got the whole kit then. Mike

Hey Guys, Just had my head gaskets done and timing belt replaced two months ago by a friend. Over the last week my idle was rough and on my way home the engine barely ran. I thought a rod bearing was failing but with this site and youtube i think it might be my timing belt tensioner. The sound is in front. Should I have my stealership friend do the timing belt tensioner or tackle it myself. I have experience at other issues but have stayed away from the timing belt jobs. thanks, Michael

Is this the part number for the turbo? 11044AA642

What is the part number for the turbo head gasket?

Where do you buy Six Start head gaskets?

Thanks Guys, looks like I'm off to find some glass. I've got a friend that works at the local stealership that will do it as a side job this weekend. This will be my second HG suby that I'm helping do. The first time we just hand sanded the heads and it ran for years…till a relative wrecked it. I would rather try the glass method. I'll stay away from the valve job and replace any gasket I get close too.

It looks like I'm getting the blow by. After filling the radiator and burping it, when I hit the accelerator, the water pushes up and every once in awhile I see a bubble. looking for a side job mechanic now. Should I get a valve job while they have it in the shop?

With no garage and it was raining today, tmr I will get more into trying to burp out the bubbles. thanks

My 02 OBW has 138K on it. Found the Temp needle sky high ten minutes into a drive. Added some water and noticed that if I kept the RPMs up above 3000 the temp stayed down and heat worked. Once I get the RPM down around 2000, the heat cuts off and temp goes up. I thought this means the water pump is bad. But I found out from my stealership friend that the OEM water pumps never fail moving some water. I checked and it looks like I get the bubbles in the coolant when I rev it up from a cold start. And one cylinder is not firing at idle. So is it the dreaded HG issue? thanks mike

Thanks guys. Cardoc helped me. I had the p0420 Changed wires plugs with Ngk and sea foam in tank and intake. A new fuel filter fixed it.

I had the p0420 Changed wires plugs with Ngk and sea foam in tank and intake. A new fuel filter fixed it.

What is a good way to test for leaks. Got some insense today to try tmr. Replaced some vacuum lines and another bottle of sea foam down the egr and other intake lines. Would oxygen sensors from my 98 obw work ?

Thanks dave. I've look for some and got under to look for exhaust. I'll look extra hard

it's actually a 98 obw y pipe

I have y pipe and two Caty off a 98 obw , will that fit a 02 obw. Both have 2.5. Would the sensors be compatible

I have a 2002 obw with the p0420 code. It had very old gas in it. I've tried some of recommended fixes ie xylene, sea foam thru vacuum lines, good gas for multiple tanks. The monitors are fine except caty. How do I tell o2 sensor is bad, since the monitor for o2 is ready, does that's how a good sensor? What brand of sensor is recommended ? Should I replace back one first