Manarius

Isn't the SUS just an Outback Sedan?

Dude, the light bulbs from radioshack are about 1/10 the price of what they are at 1stsubaru.

500 miles will allow for at least one tank if not two - so we can get some consistency among the mpg ratings. You should never base your findings on one sample. Having many samples and being able to provide an average is important.

There's your problem right there. You drive a car that's almost 15 years old, it can not, and will not be perfect.

First of all, you shouldn't be revving the motor in park. It clearly states not to do this in the owner's manual. What you describe is exactly the same way it worked in my Legacy. The ECU and the engine just can't respond instantly - it just doesn't work that way. Like I've said a million times before, stop trying to find things wrong with your car! There's nothing wrong with it. 19mpg in the city using the A/C (or even not), with AWD and auto is about average. Odds are, you're a teenager so you jackrabbit most starts, and that contributes to your bad gas mileage as well.

I wouldn't argue that the solenoid has failed so much as it is old. I doubt that a VSS would cause this problem because the ECU would throw a code for it and you'd see a check engine light (most likely).

Clutch packs or Solenoid C. I'm going to guess that it's probably solenoid C slowly reacting, not the clutchpacks because of the lack of clunk. Either way requires dropping at least the tail part of the transmission for a replacement. If it's worth it to you, you can go that route. For the amount of time/money involved, I'd just deal with it.

Yes, but it's distinctly noticeable. You know, your tank holds 15.9 gallons - 12 gallons gone is not empty. Your gauge lies. Like others have said, go over 500 miles and tell us the overall miles per gallon. From there, we can decide what's going on.

Ditto on this. Gas gauges lie. Reset the trip, drive 200 miles, and tell us how many gallons you put in. For all we know, you could be chasing a ghost and getting 20-25mpg anyways.

You have just 12k more miles than I do. 300 000 kilometers = 186 411.358 miles

You probably didn't let the car relearn correctly. On the procedure page ericem posted, you'll note that after resetting the ECU, you need to put the car in park, start it and let it run(idle) for 10 minutes or until it gets warm then you turn it off. This process allows the ECU to relearn the car. I think this is a pretty important step - which you probably missed due to not knowing about it.

Hmm....I've never used any grease or any of the like and my brakes rarely ever squeal. Usually it's at low speeds when they squeal if they squeal at all. The pads are also brand new... I don't know what to tell you though. Some pads just squeal.

I would be willing to bet that. I've seen it happen before on other Legacies. 9 times out of 10, it's the linkage of the clutch that's broken - not the clutch itself.

The transmissions starting with 1994 seem to last longer than the 92-93 versions. Mine has 173k on it and it just slips a little during the 3-4 shift when cold. I also don't flog the car a lot either. I will say that the wheel bearings do go out fairly often. However, if they're replaced and get they get the correct lubrication (high-temp grease), they don't go out for extended (100k miles) periods of time. Parts can be expensive if you don't know where do look. Your best bet is getting stuff off of people who are parting out cars. And also, the rotors don't warp if you don't drive the car like you stole it. So, the history of the car is pretty important in how the car will probably behave if you buy it (ie, if it was beat, you'll have to fix it).

Not necessarily. Some 96's are solid valves and non-interference.

I bought my SVX in NJ and I drove around with NJ registration on it for almost two weeks :-p No cop said a thing even though I took the front license plate off...

I've noticed that my SVX - that has been aligned recently, does tend to drift a certain direction depending on where I am on the road. It'll track straight on flat new road, but on older road, it'll track slightly off depending on where I am on the road.

I can't justify paying over $4000 for a car with over 125k on it. Maybe I'm just a low baller, but to me, over 100k in miles means it gets hit with drastic cuts from me.

3500 if the headgaskets have been replaced. 2500 if not.

High compression. I have to run 91+ in my SVX because its compression rating is so high (plus I get 230hp without a turbo )

Straight from the FSM:

Once the caliper's off and it won't come off, just bang it off with a hammer/sledge/whatever. It will come off. No, the studs are drawn through the hub. The rotor is just the disc there - it should move freely...

I am almost 100% positive that number 4 is the closest to the driver.

Yeah, OB, I believe you've got it right. I just wish I had my coilpack here to look to make sure, but the way you have it looks right to me.

Nipper, from the front, it's back 2 4 1 3 Front I'm pretty sure it's that way because 4 is near the driver and it gets lean all the time....