Manarius

The EG33 certainly gets the fat SVX moving. Granted, it doesn't get to its top speed very fast, but the car goes very fast...

I think it's something that has to do with the ignition switch itself. The jiggling of the steering wheel is indicative of this.

Downside? It just uses more gas. I have the EG33 in my SVX (3.3L - precedes the 3.0L), and I can get like 20mpg around town. The drivetrain can handle the power just fine.

The stock wheels on a gt though are the snowflake 16's. I mean, 15's probably squeeze on, but that makes things kinda complicated. Might as well just pick up a set of WRX rims (16's) and throw Blizzaks on them.

Read up bud: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html#resetecu If you're saying that's wrong - you're saying the FSM is wrong. That's where Josh (Legacy777) got the info from. I would highly suggest you not question where I'm getting my information - I've read *a lot of posts over the past 2 years and I think I deserve a little bit of recognition for that. I don't pass bad info - at least not willingly.

The 10 minute period of idle I mentioned is the "relearn" part for the ECU.

Resetting the ECU clears the codes anyways. I figure that starting from fresh is better than just clearing the codes out.

Why does it need new HG's?

The proper way to do the reset is to pull the battery for at least 45 minutes. Plug it back in. Start the engine and leave the car in park or neutral for 10 minutes (or until the car gets warm) without touching the throttle. Then turn off the car. Make sure none of the plugs for the ECU are plugged together (like black to black or black to green or etc).

4 grand is steep for a car with almost 180k on it. I'd offer 2000-2500 and leave it if the person doesn't take it.

On my 91, tightening the screw pushed the headlamps up.

I doubt that insurance would be affected by VDC.

My mechanic: One hour and One bearing: Total: $120. 60 for the bearing and 60 for the hour of labor. Same with axles. To do axles and bearings would be an easy job if done at once - once you pull the bearing, you can do the axle right there without doing anything else.

Annapolis Subaru does a very good job on Subaru's and is recommended by most on NASIOC.

I don't think this is the case for all Turbo 5MT 91's. As far as I know, it was a rare option.

Other than some electrical issues (Legacy in 1995 is OBDII as I recall. The 1993 is not), the swap will be direct bolt up. You could probably even use your old ECU.

Like I said earlier in this thread, I think your MAF is operating perfectly fine. You're making a problem out of nothing. Your MAF is NOT contributing to your bad gas mileage. You don't have driveability isssues, therefore your MAF is not broken.

Those look like 04-05 WRX rims. 02-03 Rims are a bright silver.

I have a SVX which has an earlier version of the engine you have now. It sure is a blast to drive. I went from 130hp to 230hp. I can chirp my tires at dead stop :-p

The low fuel light is on a separate circuit and reader. Unfortunately, I don't know exactly where the sensor for that is.

I wouldn't even bother to start looking. Many people (most notably Legacy777) have replaced the sender contacts on the fuel pump (the part that controls the gauge), but all they do is rust and the gauge proceeds to not work again. You can try techron, but I doubt you'll be doing much of anything. I'd recommend using the tripometer.

Umm, I don't know what you mean by switching. The MAF and O2 sensor work together to do airflow ratios.

From the knock sensor, it retards timing. From the MAF it leans or richens the a/f mixture.

My friend has a 1997 Legacy L. That thing was absolutely slow until about 3k rpm and that was due to the fact that the knock sensor was shot.

Uh 18-20 around town with overheating isn't bad mpg, especially if you're running the A/C all the time and your car is AWD.