Manarius

SetRight, that method only clears the codes, it does not reset the entire ECU.

I think you're a little too hasty to say that. Nipper said that 10-15% of all cars with the EJ22 actually have HG problems.

I can't imagine that a filter could do enough of anything to get more power out of the EJ22.

Pull the battery cable for 45 minutes or pull the ECU fuse for 45 minutes. Put the car in neutral, put the ebrake on, put the fuse or cable back on, and start the car. Let it get to running temp or 10 minutes - whatever comes first. Then shut the car off. Do not touch the gas or anything.

I saw on an episode of the People's Court once how a towing company was liable for ruining the transmission of an AWD explorer by towing it on a dolly.

But, the 1996 Legacy 2.2 has solid lifters that need readjusted every so often.

CV's usually click.

Clunk or shake like the car wants to die? Clunk means front diff, shake means torque bind. Neither mean wheel bearing.

215k is just break in time. Slap on some new belts, change the fluid, plugs and wires and she'll be a brand new engine.

I don't think the front diff would like the instant change in speed of the wheels. I would then tend to think that the front diff would grenade if such a thing occurred.

If I'm not mistaken, the WRX 6MT's have a final drive of 3.545 like the SVX.

Seems to make sense because the Forester is based off the Impreza Chassis. They even fit the post 91 Legacy's! (the C style endlinks - not the drop style as seen in 90-91).

Well, if you're going from AT to MT, you have to install all that stuff yourself. If you're going from MT to MT, you'll just have to make sure the clutch type is the same (push or pull or cable or hydraulic).

It'll bolt up just fine. It may require a custom crossmember, but it should work just fine. It's getting the clutch and all that stuff to work that is the hard part.

90 Legacy's didn't come stock with Foglights so whatever system that is that doesn't work is aftermarket material.

Yup, you hit the nail on the head. I'd be willing to bet that your alternator is toast.

Yes, it is non-interference.

If you want a cushy ride, have at what it says on the door. The tire manufacturer though is the true teller of where to run the tire at.

The Max PSI on these is 35 psi and it seems that running max psi works just fine- I notice no increase in the middle of the tread pattern. I certainly don't use what it says on the door because that's far too low. From what I've understood, it's best to run the tires at or near the max on the tire for best fuel economy and tire wear. It makes sense to me that a harder tire would roll easier for better mileage.

Eh, I vote for rough ride to get good tire wear and better mpg. I always run my tires at max psi on the tire. It makes them wear better. Granted, they are 70 series and I do have 153k struts/springs.

All the new engines are interference so consider that in terms of reliability. But, otherwise, the engines are bulletproof as usual.

One lousy piece causes all that problem. What a pain.

I replaced the coolant temp sensor on my car and I think I only lost a few ounces of coolant when I did the change. I didn't drain the fluid at all, I just had the car pointed down hill so the CTS was on the top of the engine.

Too bad lower PSI = worse mpg and worse tire wear. I'll take some "noise" or whatever you think you hear over getting worse mpg and bad tire wear.

That software will and has worked on the 1990-1994 Subaru Legacy's. Unfortunately, you're going to have to figure out what exactly is wrong with your connector so that you can get the voltage thing figured out. I think if you do that and read that the ECU sees, that will be the insight into what is wrong. Although, your ECU may just be crazy. Sometimes I think mine is.