Manarius

Then I would suggest going and finding a different tranny and converting it to RWD. It's going to require some major changing of the internals, but it can be done.

Weld the front differential would be my best guess. However, going to RWD w/ a AWD tranny is a real pain because it isn't electronics and especially not on a MT tranny. Sounds like you need to have one special built if you want RWD.

I don't know what you were smoking when you got in that thing, but the general consensus is that Subaru dropped the ball on the Tribeca. Underpowered, overpriced, poor leg room, and looks like rump roast.

The rims will fit without problem. Best to replace all 4 tires at the same time, however.

The entire cruise module? And assorted wiring and such? It's a major expedition to put in CC.

Yeah, the B9 Tribeca is late in the SUV game - Forester has all Subaru will need in the SUV market. Subaru should have used the money they spent designing the Tribeca to redesign the God-awful front end on the Impreza's and do some upgrading to the Forester.

Is the turnover speed faster than normal? Maybe the TBelt popped off or snapped.

Hmm, wax will yellow over time? Interesting. I didn't know that.

Once again, clearcoat is the most permanent, but waxing helps....

I'd try cleaning the TPS...that can sometimes cause tranny searching.

The oil method is temporary. For the best and most permanent results, sand and clear coat.

The bbs is the legacy forum dedicated to the 89-94 legacy's. We don't spoon feed everything to everyone, there's an expectation of a little brain behind the face. (http://bbs.legacycentral.org) It's one thing to help those who are not experienced. But it's another to spoon feed someone how to replace the O2 sensor. That's what Haynes and Chilton's manuals are for. We're here for troubleshooting, not for how-to's of things that are really pretty basic.

I think he means the Coolant Temperature Sensor. I have a picture here of what you should look for: http://www.discens.org/DSCN2628.JPG It's the brown plug that is the coolant temp sensor (if you look at the intake from the back, it's on the passenger side). It's about $27 from autozone. Hints for replacment (although, I don't think this is a coolant temp sensor case, but it never hurts to replace it): Deep socket so you don't have to work hard at getting it out. Park your car downhill (so the engine is the lowest point) to minimize coolant leakage.

God, I wish people would think for themselves around here. Around the BBS, we don't tolerate stupidity. If you can't change the O2 sensor without asking for help of the specifics of how to do it, maybe you ought not to be poking around under the hood. I don't think I should have to spell out everything specifically. Fixing the car is trial and error on a lot of occasions, you don't need somebody to spoon feed you exactly what you have to do. Think a little bit here, my God, is that too much to ask? I'm 18 and I'm asking you older people to think, sheesh. Usually, it's the older guys telling us young people to not be ricers and do a little thinking, but around here it seems to be the complete opposite. Sure, I can understand a question of "Will the ECU just automatically handle the new O2 sensor or should I reset it?" or something to that effect, but "How do I change the O2 sensor?" My God, we're not talking rocket science here.

Unless you plan on going mudbogging any time soon, I wouldn't bother with replacing the cover.

You're probably right with 97 - that's the phase 1.5 EJ22 with the solid lifters and interference design (boo on interference)

Other way around. 96 and later are single port if I'm not mistaken.

No. If anything, 89-91 would be 1st gen, and 92-94 would be 1.5 gen. All that changed was a minor facelift, some very minor suspension bits, and airbags. Otherwise, all the 89-94 cars are exactly the same. Oh, and Legacy L's after 1991 didn't get rear sway bars, but that's about all I can think of. 1995-99 is gen 2 because that was the beginning of a very major facelift and OBDII.

Why does everyone talk about it? Because it's true! You're not going to get it to drive like a Legacy now, no matter how much work you put into it. A bar in the front will stiffen the front, but not the back. The wagons always have more body flex, it's a product of design.

Yes, the mounting points are there. They just used a different piece of moulding that didn't have the track. Canadian spec swap isn't too uncommon actually, it's just annoying ripping all the auto belt crap out.

I still think you're overexaggerating the problem. Your car is 13 years old with 13 year old technology, you can't expect it to be perfect, you have to expect it to act like a 13 year old car.

My car's rather tight for being 100% bone stock. Yes, I'm riding on 153k mile struts. Around corners, aside from the tall tires, the car rides like it's brand new with a little body roll. It barely flexes, at least, from what I can tell. My 91 also has a rear sway bar so that adds to a little bit of stiffening of the rear end. I personally think you're making a lot of out nothing. I think what you're making out to be flex is just normal operation of the car's chassis.

The clear coat will last longer than you will have the car. Let's not piddle about wiping a certain type of oil over the headlights - oil is oil when it comes to use on headlights and that's that.

I mean the sensor itself. The temperature of the coolant is vital to operation; the coolant temp sensor just makes your car act wacky(ie not start for a while) when it's warm. My point is that we're dragging out a thread about silly things like Coolant Temp and O2 sensor. These are basic sensors, not something we need 6 pages of spam about.

Your opinion. I personally like hubcaps over black steel wheels. Why do you need zip ties? I've never lost a wheel cover and I've been driving for a while now - maybe you should pound them on harder?