Manarius

Well, you could probably start with a front strut tower bar (yes, one that goes from strut to strut), then probably you want to do something about the flex in the back of the car with another strut bar or some sort of brace. Then you could go to upgrading the front sway bar and putting in a rear sway bar.

89-94 is called 1st gen. They can be had without auto belts if you get a Canadian spec TLeg, but they're a rare animal indeed. Would probably be best to get a US Spec TLeg, find a Canadian spec Legacy with matching color belts and do a swap. Also, the 92-94 have Driver's Side Airbags if you're interested in more safety.

+1 Please don't part out a running SVX, there's so few of them left that junking out the ones with a little bit of damage just isn't worth it.

Good Luck finding a junked SVX. I bet you'll pay 500+ for the engine. Make sure you get every little bit of electronics from the engine - it has coil on plug like the EJ20G

No. The redesigned headgaskets don't require any conditioner as they're designed correctly.

Yep, they'll fit just fine.

Dirty throttle position sensor probably. That causes these transmission searching problems...

Nipper claims 10-15% of older EJ25's have headgasket problems. So, mathematically, you have a rather small chance of getting an affected motor.

Go with the 5MT swap. It'll cost between 1500 and 2000, but you'll love yourself every day for doing it.

Yes, yes it is. Subaru = Piston slap pretty much.

I'd do the 2000 OBS sooner than 105k. They're assuming that the tech changed to make the belts last longer. The 90 won't care if you don't change the belt. It'll just break and that's that. If the 2000's breaks, you could potentially have some major issues that would require engine replacement.

Coolant Temp does not screw with your gas mileage. Yours is working just fine. Get a new O2 sensor and stop dragging this thread on and on. Try some stuff out first before you go and just post more and more. Search some before you just keep going on asking questions. Coolant Temp and O2 are things even a total novice can do - you don't need to keep asking questions. Go to the parts store, ask for the part, buy it, put it on, it's that simple. We don't need to keep dragging on a thread about Coolant Temp and O2 sensors.

Under the throttle body on the passenger side (at least, that's where it is on the EJ22)

EJ22T block ftw. Interference ftl.

Non-interference for the win. OBDI for the ease of wiring. Plus they're in high supply, as opposed to the newer engines.

Ah, all right. I understand.

It would be? How so? DOHC heads are like 9.5 or something, right? Stock EJ22 is like 8:1 or something low like that.

If your car was made before 99, don't even bother paying attention to the gauge. Get a general feel for the kind of mpg your car gets normally and use the tripometer.

Use the edit button, kthx. Yeah, it's right at the merging of the two lead exhaust pipes.

Check vacuum lines and if they're all attached, it might be a toasted MAF.

O2 sensor is a joke. Undo O2 sensor nut. Pull out old sensor. Unplug old sensor. Put nut around new sensor. Plug in new sensor. Tighten new sensor to the exhaust. It's that simple.

Eh, a little love with a 3/4" drive and you can have almost any nut off, rust or not.

Compression increase. It will make it interference though. Timing would be a little weird.

Dude, just find a used 4EAT that has a final drive that matches the final drive on your rear diff. The overall job, should cost ~1000 (500 for the used tranny and 500 for the job of replacement). If you can find a 4EAT that matches your final drive, it's probably a straight plug and play.

I don't know about you, but I wouldn't want to go around testing whether you can pull the shaft and just pull it around like that. I'm sure the manual says don't tow it unless all 4 wheels are off the ground for a reason.... Theoretically, that could work, but I certainly don't want to be the one who tests it and fries my rear diff. I'll be towing with all 4 off the ground - because I like my car the way it is. Absolutely not with 4 wheels on the ground and in neutral. You will fry a transmission like that, guaranteed. The clutch packs are sensitive pieces of equipment.