Manarius

Nah, the brake band usually causes abnormally high shifting points or sloppy or rough shifts. The TPS is on top of the intake, I think. I'm not very familar with that area at least on that side. I would assume it's somewhere close to the throttle cables and throttle body.

If the car has a 4EAT, it has to have all 4 wheels off the ground. No if's, and's, or but's. Unless you physically remove the transmission from the car or remove all 4 half shafts, it does not get towed on the ground - you will fry the parts inside.

Dirty TPS usually causes tranny searching.

How long was the breaker bar? You sure you have your ratchet on "loosen" not tighten? I've never seen a person who couldn't get the crown nut off...

Oh, duh, your car is a 97 2.5 GT. God only knows how to reset it and relearn the ECU on that car. I was assuming that you had a 90-94 legacy. You're going to have to ask someone with a manual to help you out on that one. I wouldn't reset the ECU until you learn how to relearn it. However, it would be smart of you to read the kick panel and look for the slot that says "ECU."

The fuse for the ECU is in the kickbox under the dash. As I recall, it's like position 15 or something. Pull that fuse for 45 minutes so it'll just reset the ECU, not the entire system. Then, after you've done that, put the fuse back in. Put the car in park and turn off all accessories. Turn on the car and just let it sit until it gets warm. Once it reaches operating temp, shut it off (~10 minutes should be enough). This stuff is all on Josh's website, it would be nice if you guys would look so I wouldn't have to keep repeating it.

I would recommend against synthetic. If you have ticking, you obviously have an older engine. If you use synthetic, it'll just leak out all over the place. Dino oil is better for older cars to keep it from leaking.

Pull the fuse to the ECU for at least 45 minutes. Put the fuse back in and start the car in park. Leave it until it's warm then shut it off. If you reset the ECU, you HAVE TO make it relearn or else your car will run crappy.

I wouldn't do anything to the wheels. Once you start messing with them, you start messing up the integrity of the wheels - making them weaker.

Thank you all_talk - someone else with an auto who can agree with me.

As long as the final drive of the tranny matches that of the rear diff, it'll mate up with no hitch.

Inside the transmission.

That's defintely a NA car. I have no idea how you got it to chirp. Not even on the best day of the year with premium gas could I get my car to chirp rubber.

I can't honestly believe you've gotten your rear wheels to chirp. I assume from the way you talk about your car that it's a body-kit clad EJ22E bearing car. There's no way I'd ever get my car to drop rubber, the AWD puts a stop to that. I've never tried doing it in FWD, never put that fuse in before, and don't plan on it.

Without a turbo = lots and lots of money. I doubt anyone around here has a built NA car. EJ22T wouldn't be too hard of a drop. The wiring might be a little hairy going OBDI to OBDII, but it wouldn't be too hard of a drop aside from the electronics.

I think you're expecting Deus ex Machina - not the case for this car. I'm still interested in how you're spinning out on dry pavement.

1. There are no special tools needed. Just the wires, plugs, and a socket for undoing the plugs themselves. 2. In regard to the CC light - assuming that it's anything like the 90-94, just take the CC switch apart (the one that turns it on and off) and you'll find the bulb that's burnt out. Taking the switch out of the car shouldn't be too hard of a job - just a little prying and unplugging the switch. I don't know enough about the rest to answer them well. But those should be semi-useful.

I'm with grossgary on this one - resist the urge now and you'll love yourself later. Planning on going to college? Because you'll never get the money back that you drop into the car. I'm also with grossgary on the method of gaining power - however, I think it would be better to drop in an EJ22T than to turbo the N/A engine, but it could be done.

Changing the tranny fluid isn't going to make the solenoid engage any faster. If you're getting wheel spin, first I'd like to know how since I know my 130hp EJ22 is not capable of wheel spin even in FWD mode. Second, I think that you're over exaggerating the problem. I'd like to know how you can get your car to break rubber on dry pavement. Assuming there is something wrong, it would require removing the tranny to either replace it or some parts inside it. Why are you so concerned about 50-50 split? You're not going to need it on a daily basis anyways. And if you're trying to race people, I'd suggest against it - that's how young people like us get killed. Clarification: When the selector is in the 1st selector, the split will be 50-50 if the computer detects slipping. In other gears, the computer adjusts as necessary, using 50-50 in a worst case scenario.

If you want a high MPG car, the older 2WD Subarus would be best. But, you're going to pay a price for having AWD.

Spoiled? I'd hardly call my 130hp EJ22 spoiled. I've driven my dad's 97 Camry (similar displacement, similar horsepower) and that thing was a dog(ie, it was slower than my car!). Then, I drove my brother's 87 Nova - that thing can't get out of its own way. I think 120-130hp is a minimum needed in order to provide you with enough power to execute manuevers necessary for safety.

There's still a split second of reaction time for the TCU. Completely normal. Consider that you have a car nearly 15 years old. Consider also that you have a tranny, while electronically controlled, is still bound by mechanics. You can't expect 50/50 split as soon as you put it in first, you have to cause the TCU to want to throw the split.

As I recall, the 90-94 rear discs are the same size vented or not. Now, I think you'll still need new calibers, but if you could just pick a set from a junked SS, you'd be good.

Gutless...even my 1991 Legacy has more power. 1.5L!? Sorry, no thanks.

I don't think anti-squeak is necessary. But, a Sunday afternoon should be more than enough time if you're familiar with doing volvo brakes. Assuming the 93 doesn't have ABS, getting the brakes apart should be a real breeze (two nuts on the caliber and you can have the discs off).