Manarius

Shifting at 6200 would seem a little bit better to me...you're still way past the torque range.... I can get my car to bounce right off the 6500 marker if I wanna drive it up there. The TCU is a computer...it's not something you can...switch. You can switch the solenoid C to change bias between the back and front (50-50 or normal pretty much), but solenoid C has absolutely nothing to do with shifting at 6200 or 6500. Still don't know why you would want to change the shift point...under power mode, I think the shift map is perfectly fine. Shifting at 5500 is just about the right place because of the torque band.

90-94 are all the same in terms of CEL codes.

During those hill climbs, I wonder if the other cars even had their 4WD systems turned on. It certainly didn't seem like it.

Any year 1990-2007 will fit, depending on how much work you want to do. If you don't want to replace the rear diff, 95-99 5MT's are 4.11 as I recall - So you'd need a 5MT from a 95-99 Legacy.. From 90-94, they're 3.90.

Front bumper will. Not so sure about rear bumper.

I didn't drive it around at all when I did it. I just sucked it in via the PCV valve while I got my dad to hold the idle up so it wouldn't stall out.

Or you completely tore up the differential from riding around with two different sized tires on the front.

Drive the tank down to near empty and you have a greater chance of drawing in dirt. This dirt makes the combustion of fuel not as good as it could be - and bad combustion causes carbon buildup. Rare that it happens, but it can. Usually you gunk up the pump sock before you start getting really bad carbon build up. Of course there's going to be some buildup just from the nature of explosion.

I wonder if it's belt or pulley squeal. Most likely would be coming from the Alternator if it was either of those. Driving without the belts would be a good idea to check this - but I don't know if you're going to be able to get up to 40 mph safely without electricity from the alternator...

Did you replace the pulley or just fix it? If you didn't replace it...I'd be suspect that it might be separating. My pulley has extremely little or no play in it at all when the engine is on. It spins very smoothly with no movement but rotational.

If done through the intake, you don't need to change the oil because the seafoam isn't getting anywhere near the oil. You're using the seafoam like gas...igniting it as fuel and burning it. Via its burning, you're cleaning out the cylinder combustion chamber and intake tubes. I fed it in through the PCV valve. I undid the pipe leading to it and stuffed in a tube attached to a funnel (Into the valve itself, not down into the crankcase!!!). Then, I got my dad to hold the idle up while I poured it in SLOWLY - it makes the car really chug when you throw stuff in the system that isn't gas. You'll know you're burning the stuff when your exhaust gets very smoky. If your exhaust is black at first, you'll know that you're cleaning out what was a dirty system. Then, I'd just use it until you get white smoke, then you know the inside is clean. If it's always white or light grey, then you know it wasn't really that dirty in there in the first place. Boxer engines are known for getting a little carbon buildup around the cylinders courtesy of combustion. But, it depends on the kind of gas you get, where you drive, how low you drive the tank to, etc.

Doubtful. Seafoam is best used when sucked directly into the intake and run inside the crankcase. Running it in gas dilutes it too much to be of much use. I don't know how crappy your car idles, but it'd have to be idling really crappy in order to mandate seafoam's use. And, if you're getting vibration during take off, I highly doubt it's due to dirty engine.

Oh, this is certainly the right place. You'll be a lot different from the rest of us though, very few of us have cars newer than 10 years old. Congrats on the new purchase, you'll be very pleased with it.

Sorry - wasn't paying attention to that. But, the same thing applies...non-subaru vehicle on Subaru board...mmmm...

I don't think is the right place to put this. This is the forum for "New Gen Subes" not 4x4 toyota trucks. In the subaru's, it's usually the sender part of the fuel pump that causes the gauge to get all weird. But, I bet your truck is carbbed therefore it definitely doesn't apply to any new gen sube, so if anything, it should be in the old gen forum - but since it isn't even a sube...it should be in general chat.

Switch on top of steering wheel - turn it off.

That's a good way to think about it, until you notice your car smelling like burnt oil

That leak is a rear crank seal leak. Almost all the old legacys have it. Just get used to putting in a little oil every once in a while...fixing that leak requires transmission removal.

The wagons have a lot of flex, especially in the back of the car. It's just a product of the chassis...

You can always try that first, but from the degree of how bad the sticking is, I'm not so sure if Mystery Oil is really gonna do anything. The mystery oil usually just stops the ticking valves, not the obnoxiously sticking ones.

You'll need to take the valve covers...a slightly annoying task. It doesn't require removing the engine or anything of the sort.

Assuming you have disc brakes, and it's similar to the Legacy, in order to get the hub out, you're going to have to completely disassemble the parking brake. It doesn't really take any special tools except some pliers. As far as I know, the only "special tool" to do bearings is a hubtamer.

No way to any of that. It sounds like a stuck lifter. Like, really stuck. I've never heard a car tick that badly before because of a stuck lifter though. Well, actually, I have heard a car tick that loud before, but not because of lifters. My car ticked that badly when the MAF was going south. The ECU was pulling the timing so far back that I got a sound like that. Do you experience power loss? It seemed that from the way it was hitting that you might experience some power loss, which tells me that it has to do with timing.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru 80-100lbs was what I always thought. I just put them on as tight as I can get them. I figure that's around 80-100lbs per nut.

If the ciruit is broke, there's a button right near the top of the selector unit that allows for you to take the car out of gear without the brake.