Manarius

Timing belt causing emissions failure!? What kind of bs is this guy trying to feed you. I'd like to know what kind of emissions testing he's doing. Gas cap check, tailpipe, or OBD reading. This can help us determine what he's finding that "fails." This guy's a funny mechanic if he won't give you reports. He's obligated to tell you what's failing.

Wow. $40 an hour, that's a steal compared to what some of these "mechanics" charge around here. The local dealer charges $74 an hour! [/off topic]

Mmmph. You forgot the second sentence. I hate to be the search hound sometimes, but I feel like once or twice a week we cover the same thing. There's a difference between asking questions about situations you come across and asking questions about things that have been covered before. We have this problem on the BBS all the time, but imo, the vBulletin search function is far more powerful than the phpbb one, so I very much endorse its use. Now [/off topic]. Turbo cars in the jy are hard to come by though. Usually they're there because the tranny was toast, which means getting the car back could be a pita.

I believe you're correct. The car isn't mine (and I wasn't even in the car for that video), but I'm pretty sure it's a 91 SS, which would mean that it has a turbo - which means blowoff.

Argh, Eric, you have more posts than I do, yet seem to know less about your own car than I do. Searching would help you immensely. Any EJ series transmission will work with any EJ/EG series engine. That includes: EJ18, EJ22, EJ22T, EJ25, EJ257, EZ30, EG33. You don't need to change the tranny. If the car's in the jy, just see if it'll start. Or, the jy should be able to do a compression test on the engine - this will ensure its integrity.

I've seen pics of a EJ22T on an original engine with over 400k miles. They last forever - if you take care of them and don't beat them too hard.

Dude. There's a way to fix them. Velcro anyone? A guy on the SVX forums figured out a way to insert a small wooden nut to make it tighter. You don't need to buy a new one.

Here's the low down. 92-94 Touring Wagons: Turbo, 4EAT (only), loaded. EJ22T block. Best ever block. 90-94 Wagons: Various, non-turbo, 5MT or 4EAT. There's no real difference between these except some facia. And then the 94 weird wagons like the alpine sport model (rare) 95-96 Wagons: Last two years of non-interference style. OBDII run, with major outer overhaul done for the 95 MY.

How long has it been since you've replaced plugs and wires? Or how about your air filter? My car acted similarly when the MAF was toast, but that was abnormal in most people's opinions.

Push the pin out at the diff, and undo the either the control arm or strut or something to loosen up that area. Undo the castle nut and wham, the shaft comes out. It's rather easy. 1 hour for a mechanic who knows what he's doing. 2 for one who's letting his Bud help him out.

The sun and elements cause the plastic to oxidize - like rusty metal.

5MT or AT? If it's an AT, I would STRONGLY suggest getting a cooler. If it's not, I still suggest getting a cooler. You're going to load that thing down and add weight that it has to pull - not good for the transmission.

The AWD system is a unique creature. The speed difference front to back is what kills the AWD system as a whole. If you have one different tire, while that may not burn out a specific differential (although, front ones like burn out thanks to mismatching tires), it will make either front or back spin faster than the other and thus it fries the system. This is why we advocate that your car have 4 MATCHING tires if you have AWD.

http://www.discens.org/CIMG1102.AVI ^^ Pretty fast eh?

Wet sanding or glass headlights from Europe - those are the only options.

There is no speed limiter on the pre-94 models. The only limit is the gearbox and engine. I have a movie of a 91 (I think) doing 130+.

No, there's no governor. I saw a TLeg movie get up to 135 once with more pull to go.

If you're talking about seeing cracks in the v belts, then you better replace them. They're cheap and take little or no labor to replace.

The bending of valves occurs on the engines built after 96 (ie 97 and on). You didn't break anything when you lost the timing belt. I wonder if you don't have spark or fuel.

Replace entire axle. Who knows what muck got in there while the boot was torn.

Phase I (well, 90-94 at least) shift down into 3rd to attain engine braking. It's quite a difference slowing to a stop in Neutral than in Drive.

5MT or automatic? If it's a 5MT, it may be that the shift fork is broken or something light like that, not an entire transmission. Usually if 2nd goes, 1st goes too so...

Get an official letter from somebody at Daimler-Chrysler concerning the AWD system and use of tires that all at matching in tread, width, height, etc. If you can, get them to send it straight to your insurance company as a certfied letter. Or, you can send it certified to Daimler-Chrysler.

Eh, never cared about the shims on my car. They didn't affect anything either.

I find that using cruise, my car jumps a lot from lockup to not locking up. I think the cruise unit's interaction with the TCU causes this - I don't think it's mechanical.