Manarius

You don't need CA level cats in this state. Sorry, but I live here. I know these things.

Some of the things you mentioned are not mechanical. The ignition coil for example is purely electronic - so what exactly is going to cause it to break? The radiator - there aren't any moving parts, how's it going to break? If you keep your fluid changed, what's going to make it go bad? As for things like timing belts and water pumps - I've got a 150k mile water pump on my car that works just fine. The timing belt is almost 100k old and it still runs like brand new. Wheel bearings depend on use and so do axles. You can't just assign them a mileage that they're going to crap out. I've also got an alternator with 150k+ miles that puts out just as much electricity as it did when it was new. It's different for everybody, but a lot of the parts you mentioned have a lot longer a lifetime than what you wrote.

I considered this idea but nixed it because it doesn't follow the standard symptoms of an ailing temp sensor, but it's always a possibility. You can try running without the MAF, but I found that on my car, it wouldn't run at all without the MAF.

Umm...did they replace the coil pack? That could cause misfire. When the MAF died on my car, it acted similarly to how yours is acting. So, it could be an MAF as well.

I call BS on that. You're in West Chester, PA. Outside of the Philadelphia zone of emissions testing. You could probably get away without that second cat and still pass emissions just fine.

No 90 - 94's came stock with skid plates. In fact, I don't think they were even an option. I think I saw or read somewhere about modifying an Outback skid plate to fit on a Legacy. My question is, why do you need a skidplate? That's more weight you have to drive around, making your gas mileage worse than it already is.

I have the same setup on my sedan.

Yeah, I have that issue. I get foggy pretty often..oh well.

Yeah, I bet it has an angry O2 sensor. Reset the ECU and go from there. If it's still acting mean, get the codes read.

Those STi keys aren't like the standard OEM keys. They work in the Legacy's, but they aren't the same.

Change air filter, spark plugs, plug wires, and possibly the front O2 sensor. Do cheap stuff first, then do the more expensive.

Looks like it's running a little too rich at start.

I saw a case like this on the peoples' court. They towed an Explorer back wheels down - totally fubared the tranny. The towing company was liable. If they don't tow it right, you can sue them.

Hmm. At ~80 mph on my car with 4.11 final drive, the RPM's are about 3300. As I recall, most of the 95 and up base Legacy's have 4.11 final drive.

Pictures would help a lot.

93-94 Wagons are really nice. Shop around and could even find a touring wagon - they have an auto, but they're boosted

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1990_Legacy_Owner_Manual_Scans/118.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1990_Legacy_Owner_Manual_Scans/119.jpg Those are the scans of the 90 owner's manual fuse pages. They're basically exactly the same as the 91.

Ben, you know I'm a faithful reader of the SVX forums - I see what breaks and what doesn't. I know I don't own one (dammit), but I've done a good bit of research to know what to look for when buying one or trying to diagnose issues. Of course there's no replacement for ownership, but by the same token, reading what owners have to say about the car and noting what's happening to them isn't a bad idea, right?

On the EJ22's there is one knock sensor and it is located almost directly under the intake. It's time to replace it when it's cracked. Odds are, if you're on your original, it's cracked and needs to be replaced.

And you regularly blow trannies before 100k miles I'm just kidding with you Hocrest, we all love you.

Nope, I don't think you'll need anything else. As long as the axle came with a new nut, you should be all right.

It's all right good sir. You were right about the rear end in that the tranny usually breaks due to that pitiful 3.545 final gearing - but you knew that anyways.

Rear wheel bearings. All the SVX's have this problem. BTW nipper the link would be: http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum

It can be either. My friend's like 97 drove like crap until the knock sensor was replaced. The ECU had retarded the timing so much that it drove like it was a slushy. I do have to admit though, the Torque Converter on the older 4EAT's is pretty aggressive. I don't know if that has anything to do with the "butt-o-meter" rating, but I personally think that my 91 L AT AWD is better off the line than my friend's 97 even with the knock sensor replaced - and her car has mor HP than mine (not too much though). It could be a final drive ratio as well. The 91 is 4.11, the 00 may be 3.9 or 3.7 which would make for a very tall 1st gear, with slow start.

I fed mine in through the PCV valve...worked pretty well imo.