Manarius

My silverstars really wash out over wet road. I personally like my silverstars, but vikash and a lot of the people on the bbs don't like them and think they're not worth the money. I'm not really sure I agree with that at this point, but maybe I'll change my tune if they just decide to blow on a random occasion.

No, this isn't a matter of hurrying. My mechanic stopped a few times to talk to my dad (they went to school together) while he was replacing the bearing on my car. He was taking his sweet time - not rushing it at all. Doing the bearing is not a tough job, you just have to have the right tools. That's the reason I wouldn't attempt it, I don't have the necessary tools to do the job correctly. Trust me, if there's one thing I don't do when I'm working on the car, it's rush. I take my sweet time, it gives me time to analyze how I took stuff apart and how I put it back together. I've spent many hours in the garage just taking stuff in my car apart and putting it back together.

Then your Subaru shop sucks major rump roast. My mechanic did a REAR wheel bearing (a real PITA compared to the front) in an hour. He charged me $60 in labor for an hour, 'cause that's all it took. And yes, he pulled the entire hub out and pressed the bearing in. No wonder people don't go to dealers, it's dealers like the aforementioned that persistently screw people time and time again. 2-4 hours for a wheel bearing!? What the hell are you doing in that time period, having a tea party!? I could do it myself in that kind of time. Jesus, how long does it take you to do an axle, 6 hours? Give me a freakin' break here. What's the name of your company so I can tell everybody I know NOT to go there.

Is this a "Auto vs Manual" comparison? That would change it a lot. Has he changed the knock sensor on the OBW lately? That can really give you crappy starts.

If they don't want to replace the tranny (because odds are that it's toast if it was towed 2 wheels down), sue the **** out of them. They should know better.

One word: Junkyard.

The Seatbelt buzzer also goes off when you turn the car to the on position if you don't have the lapbelt plugged in. If you do, there won't be a buzz, but the seatbelt light will still flash.

Cool blue are dim as all hell. I've had Silverstars on my car now for almost two years and they are the same brightness as they were when I got them. If you want bright, get some halogens and wire in some relays to help the poor electrical job Subaru did with the lights.

Ditto. Emissions testing in this state is retarded. OBDII cars have to be connected to the computer and it has to read in - OBDI cars just get a visual inspection and gas cap check.

If I were you, I would tow it flatbed. I wouldn't want to take chances with the most expensive part of my car - pushbutton 4WD or not.

Not having doors with frames makes getting ventshades extremely difficult. Usually, one must order them JDM.

Is it a 5MT or AT? Could be an input bearing. Open the hood and see if it's coming from the belt area. It may just be a worn out alternator or AC compressor.

Every single car I know of works like that. If you lock the door from the inside and hold the handle open as you shut the door, it will stay locked.

My 91 has that same filter.

That's the way the system on the 95 and newer cars works.

Still smells like tophat to me.

All-Wheel-Drive means 4 new tires - every time. No chances. Are you sure it's tranny seepage? Might be rear crank seal. Tranny seepage is easy though - drop the pan and replace the gasket.

Yeah. Go to the pump and fill 'er to the top. Divide the amount of miles on the trip (assuming you reset it when you last filled up) by the number of gallons you put in. Pretty simple.

When my MAF took a crap, it started with a crappy idle and it proceeded to just make the car undriveable. Maybe your car has the same issue?

Subie diffs don't go too often, but they do go if they aren't taken care of. They're much more likely to go than twisting a driveshaft. However, in order to replace the front diff, you have to pull the entire trans. So, if you have the entire trans out, you might as well just replace the entire trans instead of trying to pull apart diff and trans then rebolting the diff to the trans and putting it back in...that's a big PITA.

Let a mechanic do it. It's a one-hour job. If it's a slight roar that gets louder as you go faster, then it's probably a wheel bearing. However, just to be sure, make sure that all the caliper dust covers are on tight and all the calipers are tight.

Coilpack took a crap?

Just get a JY AT tranny and have that put in. Overall cost should be like 1k.

I wonder if he has a sticky caliper. I'd have to ride in the car myself to see if it was transmission related jerking or wheel related jerking. Since it's so new, just take the car back and make the stealership fix it.

You are an extreme exception. It clearly states in the owner's manual that you're not to use that fuse except for diagnostic purposes. And, while I agree that there's some rubbish in the manual, that is not.