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Manarius

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Everything posted by Manarius

  1. Wow. You put in entirely too much. You're probably eating apart your rubber seals. If it's 1 bottle/10 qt, you should have put in half a bottle for 5 qt of oil (approximately what the 2.2's take).
  2. Nope, because the broken pieces are still circulating in the tranny, FWD fuse or not.
  3. Assuming the price of gas is $3.00/gal and you run it bone dry (not recommended), one fill up would cost $48. Range if average MPG is 20 is 320 miles. 20 is a bit conservative though.
  4. Please please PLEASE!!! search before you post a question this broad. It will save us from having multiple threads about the same thing. The answer is no. There is NO benefit to putting in that fuse. It does not save on gas mileage and it does not prevent any wear on the transmission. If anything, it's worse with the FWD fuse than it is normally.
  5. Jack car up. Check to see if wheel moves laterally (left-right). Wheel should not move at all. If it does, you've got a toasted bearing.
  6. I'd replace all 4. I wouldn't want to take any chances with the AWD system. $400 for new tires or $1500+ for a new tranny if you screw it up.
  7. How does the fuse work? Please PLEASE!!! search before you ask questions - this has been covered many times. In a nutshell, it forces the Duty C solenoid to not engage the clutches in the back of the tranny. Where is the rest of the wiring? Well, the fuse just sends a signal to the TCU saying to engage FWD. Interrupt with a switch? Why bother. The FWD fuse isn't supposed to be in except in situations where only ABSOLUTELY necessary. It doesn't gain any gas mileage or make less wear and tear on the tranny. If anything, it's WORSE to drive an AWD car in FWD mode just because you feel like it. You use the FWD fuse for testing, not for normal driving. If you want a FWD car, get a FWD transmission.
  8. 90's have only one sensor. From the looks of the one on my 91, I bet I could get it off without any penetration solution. Just unplug it and do the nut, it's a rather simple process.
  9. OBDI to OBDII is going to be a big PITA.
  10. Do you mean the grey sort of "plastic" trim that runs along the bottom of the doors and fenders? If so, you're probably going to need a specifically Outback fender. The L fenders probably won't fit that trim piece.
  11. I wonder if your TCU is b0rked. That controls when the 4EAT shifts...
  12. Just get the timkin bearing and new seals - do NOT get bearings from the dealer, they aren't worth it. The bearing itself comes with a nut and all that jazz. Take it to your local mechanic, he'll charge you an hour of labor. You gotta undo the caliper and hub and he'll have to undo the axle and pull the axle away to get at the hub. Make sure he packs the bearing with new grease.
  13. What kind of emissions stuff are you looking to get rid of? Most of the stuff is pretty necessary (PCV system most notably). You could probably drop a cat, but you'd fail a visual so...
  14. Car thowing a Check Engine Light? Sounds to me like you may have a clogged fuel filter. Replace the fuel filter and check back. If we still have problems, then it might be a fuel pump issue all together.
  15. Well, the 97 did feel a bit underpowered, but it didn't carry on as this person describes.
  16. I have hood insulation on my car - it's just as noisy as any other car. If it wasn't on there, I'd probably never care that it wasn't. It's not a noise barrier - it's something to make the hood not get so damn hot.
  17. Yeah, find someone who has a used one. Just replace the entire sensor. I know Frank (Blackbart) on the bbs has one or two of them.
  18. Well, my MAF went just like yours did - only without the rain part. I'm convinced that eventually they just go bad. Man, you should have talked to Frank (Blackbart) over on bbs.legacycentral.org, he could have hooked you up with a used MAF for $25 + shipping.
  19. Looks to me like bald tires caused that accident.
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