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Manarius

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Everything posted by Manarius

  1. I had a key cut for my car back in December. I used a standard Subaru (OEM) key. The vin cut was well done, but it took a few uses to get the key to go in and out of the lock as smoothly as my original key. I don't know how you broke that key off in the lock - I've never seen a key break in a lock. Maybe you need to lube up your locks a little bit.
  2. Sure. Either find a rear LSD that matches your final drive, or have an open one converted to VLSD for like $250. For you, you would need a 4.11 Final drive Rear diff with LSD - a rare find but found on newer Impreza RS's (99-01).
  3. It has so many miles that in my opinion, it's not worth any more than 5k.
  4. Check it. Original engine. http://www.subaruhighmileageclub.com/
  5. Yeah, on the cars 97 and newer, Timing Belt change is very important. Every 60k is about right. You could probably make it to 100k with no problems, but after that, every mile you drive is a lucky one. Remember, if you break a timing belt on the 97 and newer cars, be prepared because you may need some upper engine work (ie, new valves because you may have just bent a few).
  6. I've had two cars now with bum knock sensors and neither had crappy driving on account of it. My car's was broke for ages and no issues and a friend with a 97 had her's completely cut from the ECU and the car didn't carry on. I definitely think there are deeper issues here - knock sensors aren't that effective on how the engine runs.
  7. It doesn't exist past 1994. The lock system was changed to something different. For the dimming: It's definitely not a feature of the car. I think it's a strain on the system or a ground issue.
  8. Douglas Vincent has put several superchargers on his Legacy - lately though he's been dealing with problems with detonation.
  9. Ok, let's tackle these one by one. The passenger lock: http://www.geocities.com/hobiegary/locks.html <-- read that. That is why your passenger side lock does that. Just follow those instructions and it won't do that anymore. If you get stuck, ask me - I did it on both rear doors. I recommend the 18g wire. The driver's lock: Make sure that you're pushing the driver's side lock completely into the open position so that it trips the switch to send electricity to the rest of the doors to unlock them. Unfortunately, you might need a new switch, but that's a pretty rare condition so maybe you're just not pushing it far enough. Check the contacts too - that's a good idea. The shift interlock: The click is pretty common - my car does it as well. As for the dimming here's what I'd check: First, check the amount of current coming from the alternator at idle. You may be suffering from a tired alternator. Second, check the ground for the transmission and/or dash components. These cars are known for bad grounds.
  10. There are differences between OBDI and OBDII (90-94 vs 95-99)
  11. You'd have to get the engine from a 95-96 model so that everything is plug and play.
  12. NipponDenso is OEM spec. And, 90-94 only had one O2 sensor - stuck right in the Y merge.
  13. If you're going to get an 07 OBS, then you're going to be a guinea pig. Very few people on Subaru boards are rich enough to afford a brand new OBS, let alone find parts to mess with it.
  14. You could try http://www.subarugenuineparts.com. They might have what you need. However, you may need to email them to ask if they even carry the parts you need.
  15. You're looking for a BG5 JDM spoiler. Check on ebay. Go with 15 or 16 inch rims - you'll be happier with those.
  16. Synthetic and the old engines usually means some sort of leaking or issue of that nature.
  17. Andy, I was thinking the same thing - I just wasn't going to post 'cause he said it was fixed. But, rear grinding, 9/10 times it's a rear wheel bearing.
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