Manarius

Wheels are on backwards :-p

Yes, the engines pre 1997 are not interference (timing belt snaps and nothing bad happens). However, you'll want to stick with 95 and newer so you don't have to swap OBD systems (95 and newer have OBDII).

Mmmph, I was pretty sure that the 5MT's were 50/50 all the time due to the viscous coupling - but, we learn something new every day.

For the MT's, the AWD is 50/50 all the time. With the AT, there's a solenoid to transfer power.

I usually use 80 ft lb just to be safe.

Run fast? STi engine swap, STi 6MT, AWIC or FMIC, bigger injectors, bigger turbo, really big wing, loud muffler...standard stuff.

1000 is about right for the job. The FWD fuse is NOT meant for regular driving. IMO, you should get the job fixed now because if the transmission needs fixed and there are bits floating around in there, using the FWD fuse isn't going to keep those bits from getting circulated and you could potentially completely destroy your transmission instead of just needing the clutchpacks replaced.

I've got 150k mile rotors and calipers and mine don't stick or clunk or the like. They work just fine. I think that your shop is running you around.

I certainly can't tell the difference, but I can tell you right now that valve ticking is far more common than piston slap on the 2.2's. Now, he has a 2.5 with Solid Lifters, so it's probably piston slap.

Finally, someone who agrees with what I'm saying!

I guess you could if you had to...but the less shifting the better. Maybe you should take off easier from stoplights so that you don't spin.

Heated mirrors.

You don't have to take off the door on the 90-94 models to replace the lower assy - I don't know about the 1998 model. However, I can't find the part on http://www.subarugenuineparts.com.

The 90-94's have that same problem very commonly. You'll have to replace the checker assembly for the door.

I think it's a transfer clutch as well. If it were a rear diff, it would do it all the time because even though there's no drive to it, it still moves with the wheels anyways (ie the gears inside still turn).

If your state doesn't test for emissions, then it's not required. As long as you can pass either a visual inspection or a hydrocarbon test then you're good to go. Probably would be best to either ask a friend who is a person who inspects cars or look up the laws online.

Trouble with warm engine starts? Start by replacing the Coolant Temperature Sensor. You may also have issues with the crank position sensor.

OEM's have rubber that wears out. This leads to killing joints. In another thread, I proved that it was more cost effective to get 1 reman lifetime one and replace it 4 times than it was to get one OEM one and replace it once.

Lifetime warranty reman. front axles can be had for around that price from somewhere like Autozone.

You must not have had what we commonly call as toquebind. Torquebind is 99.9% caused by tranny internals.

Yeah, and doing a CC upgrade is a job not for the lighthearted. It's not just all plug and go - you gotta do some serious wiring. It's not like the put the CC module in there and just didn't put in the switch.

A few of the Legacy Turbo's from 1991 had 3.9 geared rear VLSD's. It was an option on the car, but a rare one indeed. Although, all SVX's had rear VLSD's geared at 3.545.

One of the U-Joints on the shaft might be shot - that could cause the vibration.

You can do it with a very very large torquebar or you can use the starter to "bump" the bar and undo the bolt.

I bet your alternator is cooked. Check it at Autozone or somewhere like that.