stumpy

I have a 91 Legacy AWD Auto that isn't working properly. Checked the Haynes manual, shifter adjustment (Which appears to be fine.) and band adjustment is all that they cover. Read lots of post here but found none with the same symptoms. As there is only one band it must still be working for the 2 gears to work that I have. My symptoms are not in the list of options they offer. Recomend dearler, which is not an option as far as I'm concerned. If it can be fixed inexpensively I would like to do so my self. Other wise it will be a donor for my EJ22>EA81 conversion. ? Could the valve body be gmmed up and causing these symptoms? ? Is it possible for the ECM for the auto tranny to cause these symptoms? Open to suggestion on possible solutions. Thanks, Stumpy

I have an 84GL that I want to put a D/R 5speed and a EJ22 into. The EJ22 curently is an automatic AWD. I had problems with an engine swap from manual engine into an automatic. The IAC and injectors being different. ? Will I need to use an IAC from a manual engine to make it run properly? ? Will I need to use injectors form a manual engine as well? ? Since the wiring harness will be altered will the above question be a non issue? Thanks for all your input in advance, Stumpy

I did an engine swap from a manual to an automatic earlier this year. Both cars were 91 models so I figured there should be no problem. Car ran like crap (No starting cold with out foot on accelator, after warmed up it would idel on the stop screw thats not intented for that purpose. Any thing below 1K RPMs it ran on 2 cylinders. A major slug NO POWER) until I learned that the IAC and fuel injectors are different on the early model Legacy's between auto and standards. There was a physical difference in the two that I have. The body of the standard IAC was much thicker than the auto one and one of the vaccum hose's came out at a different angle. Had to use the bolts that were on the auto unit as the manual one's were way to long and the longer hose from the auto. Changed the IAC and throttle body out and it runs great now. I still have the one form the standard motor. Hope this is helpful, Stumpy

OH YEA, Test drive turned out better than I had expected. The auto trans has been shifting oddly and the engine performance very poor. Runs great now!! Like the one I test drove that got me interested in a Legacy in the first place. Now all that is left to do is get the AWD kicking in.:-\ Will look for threads on that issue next. Thanks again for all your help, this forum is great!!!!

OH HAPPY DAY, Did the throttle and IAC swap today and for the first time in this car the engine started normal. Swapped out the O2 sensor also and going to run over to Multnomah Falls for a test run. Thank you all for the information that put me on the right track!!!!

I'm in the same boat as kzcafe. 91 manual FWD transplanted into a 91 auto AWD. Mine also won't start cold unless the accelator is held down but still doesn't run right even when warmed up. Idles on the stop screw thats not intended for that use. My codes are 24, 32, 49. 49 is the air flow sensor and I swapped the one out of the donor car but it promply overheated for the first time ever. Swapped that back and no overheating problems. 32 is the oxygen sensor. Can't remember if I switch that on this car or a friends. Will have to check into that one. 24 is air control valve but can't find that in the manual. Is that just the butterfly in the throtle body? I see it has several sensors associated with it. I will have to check into the injector swap and IAC as suggested by Legacy777. Thanks to Gnuman advise I found the connectors after quite a search. They were located right next to the ECM moduel. Wires so short I had a hard time getting them connected. Thanks All

Got around to doing the drivers side axle today. Went much smoother than the pasenger side did. Took it for a 7 mile test drive with NO cluncks at all this time. Off to other problems now. Thanks All

Thanks for the pointer Gnuman, hadn't thought about the oil level for some reason. Apparently I pulled the stub out when I took it apart as the oil level was fine and I took the hub end apart before taking out the pin in the stub. This is the second axle I have done so I'm no expert. Next time I will undo the pin first and see how that works for me. The front end is still knocking and the drivers side axle is needing replaced also I believe. The boot on the knuckle is blown on that side. At least I have a good spare for that side as well.

Northwest is right on the money. The splined output shaft pulled out far enough that I could turn it with out turning any of the internal gears. After I tapped it back into place it doesn't just pull out now. As nipper suggested I did replace the axle but with a used one out of my parts car. The old one had a split boot when I aquired it over 8.5K miles ago and had been knocking after the 1stK. As I only paid $200 for the car in the first place and have used only parts of an existing parts car I can't complain about giving it a little attention. Going to give it a good test drive and go to Portland an 80 mile round trip for me. That should be enough to let me know if all is well. Thanks, Ed

Thanks for the input nipper and grossgary. Will be less stressfull knowing that the stub isn't going to cause any problems and I can move on to the next few issues with the car.

OPPS, there should have been a question some place in the original post, my bag. What holds the axle stub in? Does it just pull out off the transaxle? I read the Haynes manual before the first post and it was of no help. Tried to find help in other posting but that didn't help either. New at using this type of reference and it may just be my lack of search abilities. Looked at my parts car (Axle donor) after the post and the stubs DON'T JUST PULL OUT. Decided to just put it back together as I need to use it tomorrow. Can't remember the persons name who stated that you could interchange axles between AWD and FWD but he was correct. (Donor car a 5sd FWD and receipiant an Auto AWD) No more noise form the front end and as long as the stub stays in place I'm good to go for now. Thanks for your patience and time, Ed

I have a 91 Legacy L AWD Wagon. It's been making noise for over 7K miles in the front end. Figured when it got bad enough I would have no problem finding the culprit! I got turned on to this forum and have been doing lots of research, lots of good information here. The boot has been split on the passenger side axle since I aquired it and with winter getting close I don't want to get stranded (Rear drive doesn't engage for some reason) in the cold and/or wet. Got the axle out with no problem but the stub came out with it (Like 2.5"). I managed to get it back in after turning it many times trying out different teeth and ended up tapping it lightly with hammer. The STUB coming out like this doesn't seem normal to me. Any input would be appreciated. Don't want to put it back together if there is other problems that need addressed to make to proper and reliable. Thanks for your help, Ed

I have a 91 Legacy parts car I'm wanting to strip down to get rid of and the wiper system is still in tact. Not sure about the L&R transmission bit but willing to take a look at it. Worked when it was driven home 8 months ago. Fried the tranny gettng it their but I was after the struts and motor.

Thanks for the input. Don't have a left leg (AKA above knee amputee) so it will have to be hand control or right leg action. I thought about motorcycle throtle and brake setup on the shifter. I could always use the right leg for heavy braking as long as I didn't need to use the clutch at the same time and the hand conrol for minor breaking needs. I do plan on taking it off road. Thats one of the reasons I purchased it. I have two Legacy AWD wagons but they have single range transmissions and are very low to the ground. Latter, Ed

Hello All Recently purchased an "84" GL that curently doesn't run. Wanting to set up hand controls as I'm a left AKA. Figure I can use my right leg on the clutch and put hand controls on the gas and brake. Any one out there have knowledge of setting up hand controls?