johnceggleston

blocks are pretty simple. it is the heads and intake that are year specific. lots will bolt up. but 00 - 03/4 are probably going to be your best bet, most powerful. but 90 - 96 ej22s would be non-interference. they only have 4 trans bolt holes but they will work. as will the 96 - 98 ej25d, also only 4 bolt holes, and are interference and the 97 - 98 ej22, also only 4 bolt holes, and are interference. but 00 - 03/4 all have the 8 bolt holes and will bolt up. not sure about the head gaskets, and 90 - 98 blocks may require a specific gasket to avoid interference. i do not know. btw, the 99 outback ej25d uses a phase 2 ej25 block (00 - 03/4), with a phase 1 DOHC heads (96 - 98). this was standard from the factory.

+1 /\

uhh... where?

the most common cause of the duty C code is in fact a bad duty c solenoid, replace it and you are good to go. but there are other causes, or so i have read, such as: a stuck duty c due to dirty atf a bad TCU bad wiring the '' FWD only seems to bean indicator. usually a bad duty C will cause torque bind, not FWD. i would test to see if the mechanics of the transfer clutch are working, separate from the electronics. with both wheels on one side of the car in the air, unplug the large connector under the hood going to the trans. start the car and shift to N. rotate one wheel by hand, the other wheel should rotate the exact same . this means the wheels are ''locked'' front to rear. if they are not locked, there is a mechanical problem. could be grooves in the clutch drum, or worn out clutch plates, oe busted clutch drum, or no rear drive shaft or the valve body of the duty C could be blocked eliminating ATF flow, pressure. no pressure equals no power to the rear. the duty C is designed to bleed off, regulate ATF pressure. full pressure equals a ''locked'' torque bind situation. i would test the duty C as described above, and do 3 drain and fills of ATF, before i cracked the case and replaced the duty C. more info is better.

well the good news is, the car does not owe you anything. you have gotten your money's worth. a compression test might be a good starting place. or just check the timing, it may have just humped a tooth. at 300k, valve clearance comes to mind. as does timing plug wires unless yours are very, very, high quality.

all auto trans 90 - 99. why do you want your impreza to be FWD?

i'm pretty sure you know this, but is easier, cheaper, and quicker to find a good used engine and swap it in. but then every one needs a hobby, so if this is yours, have at it.

cam and crank sensors work the same but the do not swap, the brackets are different and do not fit in the other place. the "teeth" on the crank sprockets are obvious, the ''lobes" on the cam sprocket are on the back side . usually if one is wrong then the other is wrong. good luck.

the cam on the battery side of the engine.

on the ej25D dohc, when the crank is in the correct position, 3 of the 4 cams are at rest. one, the left intake i think, is under load. when it turns, it is snapping all the valves closed, away from damage. so not to worry. but what if you were not using the correct timing marks? well then is MAY be possible for damage, i do not know. i would have to study it for a bit. so make sure you are using the correct timing alignment marks. reposition the cam to the correct place when you put the belt back on. when positioned correctly, the cam should hold its position. if it will not hold, it is not in the correct position. of course, it may get bumped out of position when you are working with it , but such is life. a long time ago i heard that there was no possibility of valve to piston damage on this engine. but valve to valve damage was common. i do not know if this is true. just make sure the crank is in the correct position.

did you swap the cam and crank sprockets? i'm pretty sure that is required, intake manifold as well.

the injectors will fit in the ej18 rails, but i doubt they need to. it will run fine on the ej18 injectors. if the ej18 you now have is obd1, then yes, stick with the ej18 harness. i'm not sure about the intake it self. plus you already have the ej18 intake / harness. an ej22 intake / harness would cost you . an easier , power upgrade, just swap in an ej22 (with egr). simple and easy. not the power of the ej25d, but neither is the frankenmotor.

what year impreza 2.2 engine???

why do you need an ECU? they do not fail often. did you look at http://www.car-part.com ? it should be listed under computer, i think.

the crush washer for the engine oil pan and the auto trans oil pan are the same, 95 - 99, probably 90 - 04. the FRONT diff oil drain plug is a Torx plug and it is a different size. i do not know about 05 and up. engine oil drain plug, item #9 http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_25/lubrication_system/oil_pan/illustration_2/ trans oil drain plug, item #3 http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_25/automatic_transmission/at_transmission_case/illustration_7/ click on the part number and then the ''usage info'' to see what cars use this part.

just have them weld in a piece of pipe. it doesn't even need to flex. a locally owned muffler shop is probably better than a national chain. i had a ''flex joint '' pipe welded in my 98 for $150. i spent too much.

i'm not sure, but rear rotors are the same 95 - 99 for legacy, outback, GT, forester, and impreza, as long as they have disc brakes. some low end cars, brightons and maybe imprezas, have drum brakes. check out www.car-part.com sort by distance / zip code to see what is close.

help. i can not find the part number for the small coolant hose that runs from the crossover pipe to the throttle body. it starts right next to the 2 wire temp sensor and runs underneath to the other side of the throttle body. and i can not find the part number any where. and i have looked every where i can think of including two forums, opposed forces, online parts dealers and my local dealer. the hose on the other side, (part # 807607191) feeding the throttle body with coolant is easily found, it is an ''el'' shaped 7.5mm hose about 6 inches long (shaped like a large allen wrench, long leg / short leg). the parts guy at the dealer spent some time looking, but announced before he did that it was a hard one to find and he was not optimistic. he also stated that ''tech support'' suggested using 2 of the others to make up the one i need. sounds fishy, but maybe. so unless one of you smart folks has the number handy, i'm going to buy 9/16 coolant hose and use that. the risk there is it may kink and stop or reduce the coolant flow. but since my alternate solution is to bypass the throttle body altogether, that does not scare me too much. how much would it mess up my emissions / mpg / engine power if i do not ''warm / cool" the throttle body. i'm in sw VA, winter = 0 to 40 degrees , summer = 80 to 97 degrees, most years. very few days out side of those limits, at least until the polar ice caps are gone. part number please? suggestions? thanks, jce

i don't think those numbers are right. iirc, one side is a whole number, and the other side is a half. so instead of the mark being on the tooth, it is on the valley, or vice versa. but it has been a while since i did one. what year, engine?

actually they are bolts.

i'd look around, they don't fail often so they should be cheap. http://www.car-part.com sort by zip code.

the 99 MT 2.5 cars, have the 4.11 final drive ratio. 96 - 99 ej25 cars, MANUAL trans - all have the 4.11 read diff final drive ratio. (not sure about the impreza RS) so you can use any of these. 96 - 99 ej25 legacy manual trans - outback, GT, forester 98 ej25 forester manual trans - all (probably 99 as well) but you can also use and rear diff from the ej22 & ej18 AUTO trans cars, 95 - 99, including 95 - 99 ej22 legacy auto trans - L, LS, Brighton 95 - 99 ej22 imprzas auto trans - ALL 93 - 97 ej22 impreza autor trans - ALL why do you ask?

my 00 lego L had a similar problem. flashing AT Temp light while driving. i could find nothing about it in the owners manual. flashing at start up, yes, flashing while driving, no. mine ended up being a bad ground connection on top of the intake manifold. apparently i failed to tighten the bolt when i did the head gaskets months before. but it ran fine until i replaced an axle and bumped it. it then started having this intermittent problem, which got worse over time. my shifting problem, it down shifted into 3 regardless of speed. has there been any work done on the engine just prior to this problem? have him look for loose wires, or disconnected , broken wires. or have the dealer do it. good luck.

we have learned a lot since 07 regarding this fix. the locktite is not needed, nor the key for that matter. it just aligns everything until the bolt torque takes over. the cause is improper bolt torque.

it is another suabru forum, i think impreza focused originally, and seriously into modding their cars. as opposed to this site which seems to be more repair and maintenance focused. but they know their stuff. the joke part is , if you think we are being hardheaded, just try swimming against the tide over there. we are a much more gentle bunch. and accepting of all kinds of folks, even folks like me.