johnceggleston

this is good. now, what does the bypass hose look like?? thanks.

11 or 12 bolts.?? 11 i think.

0.40 or 0.040 something like that. but they are probably already gapped correctly.

2 things. http://www.car-part.com , they may not list the part but if you call a yard that has an engine "core" for parts you should be able to find one. all crank pulleys, harmonic balancers, from ej engines 90 - 99 are the same. or at least interchangeable. (the bolt on the ej25 is not as visible and the bolt on the ej22 . i think it is recessed more. but the pulley will work. i think they lightened it by thinning out the base plate. but i'm not sure. i am sure that the outside dimensions are EXACTLY the same.) some one here should have one off of a bad ej25 for a good price.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

i think the width is what will catch you.

tell me again why you are replacing the pinion shaft? are you changing the final drive ratio? i doubt they are a matched set. and although they may have ''worn'' to br matched the chances of you getting them exactly the same as they were is pretty slim. for that matter, if they have worn to a matched condition you probably don't want to use it. just my opinion. the trans shop that swapped my rear extension housing used a silicone based gasket material. i assume RTV ultra gray would do. same for the front diff case. of course, don't use too mush , you don't want it to goop into the case and cause problems. (the diff would be less of a concern than the rear housing since the diff doesn't have a pump.)

no, if it did they would call it an impreza.

i don't think the pinion has to come out. it is mounted in the trans, thru the oil pump and the front diff mates to it. i had a how to on this but i can't find it. i'll keep looking and let you know if i do. as i remember the file has to be attached to an email. any one seen a link or file at josh's http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

the 97 FSM lists the following rear diffs. the 95 FSM list only 2 rear diffs, T1 and T2 only. the same specs as 97 but not the TP.

there used to be several. i bookmarked one a long time ago and i have lost more than one hard drive since then so i can't help with out a search. but my advice for speed is , to cut every connection, wire or hose, on the donor car on the car end. and cut every connection on your actual car on the engine end. this will leave you with a complete hookup for every connection, hopefully. if time is not an issue, disconnect all tubing and wires from the engine you are removing from your car. this will leave you with all the stuff you need to re-connect.

the only question is the EGR and that can be resolved with an intake swap. the 97 ej22 and the 98 ej22 are the same.

don't get the tensioner. replace it only if it is leaking, and they either work or they don't. if it's not leaking it is most likely still good. this part does not fail often. compare your surbaru part cost for ''the ones you need'' to theimportexperts for the whole kit.

fyi: if the h balancer fails before you get to replacing it you will likely need a valve job which includes head gaskets, in addition to a timing bet job. i would replace all the front seals, (from subaru, the seals are about 30$ online plus shipping) 2 cam oil seals 1 crank oil seal 1 oil pump o-ring 1 tube of anerobic sealer (or RTV ultra gray) to re-seal the oil pump (RTV is about 7-8$ at the parts store) plus , (from theimportexperts) 1 timing belt 2 idlers, smooth 1 idler, toothed 1 idler, tensioner (98s used a one piece unit that is expensive, hopefully yours is the old style with the idler separate from the tensioner. much cheaper.) also consider, 2 valve cover gaskets, a little pricey 1 pcv plugs and wires, maybe

95 legacys, w/ 4eat AWD are 4.11 final drive ratio. trans code number TZ102ZAAAA. (FWD may have a 3.9 or a 3.7 ratio, i'm not sure about them.) 95 legacys, w/ 5spd AWD are 3.9 final drive ratio.

my son's 95 2.2L lego sedan (195k miles)would click when it got low on oil. he had a leak and he used the clicking as an add oil indicator until i replaced all the front seals and fixed it. HLAs can click because they are clogged or low on oil or just been sitting for a long time and need to loosen up.. driving it while it clicks will wear something more than it should but it shouldn't kill the engine unless it runs dry or runs like that forever.

i have no idea if this will work. but someone suggested cutting a good tone ring in 2 places and removing it from the hub. then bolting it on to your existing hub. if it lines up right it may work. way less work than removing the hub and replacing the bearing. the only complication is that once installed part of it would be held on by only 2 bolts, the other side would have 3. maybe?

several years ago there was a similar thread. the guy was able to start the car when hot by pouring water on the cts and cooling it. tricking the engine into thinking it was cool. this may not help, but who knows. if it starts you have identified the problem. if not, it could still be the cts or maybe something else.

maybe it is time for some one to develope an ej22 / ej25 adapter plate for the intakes. then we could use the newer intake on the older blocks.

from what little i know, all ej22s & ej18s prior to 97 are HLAs. but i have not done the homework to confirm this. and if there is an ej18 from 97 , it is probably HLA as well. ej18s didn't change much.

95 ej22 should be HLAs. but you already know that.

the crank sensor generates spark, the cam sensor generates fuel. pulling either will kill the related event. fuel pressure?? if it really ran better after messing with the fuel pump, maybe the fuel pressure regulator has a problem. passenger side front cylinder is the #1 . low compression does not sound good but one bad cylinder should not keep it from starting. 120 sounds a little low but since the 3 were the same it could just be the gauge or how you tested it.

any generic ''head light'' relay will work, 20amp?. it's not really carrying a lot of juice. but of course bigger is better.

have you tried tight turns in reverse. some have said this loosened up their clutches. you issue may be grooves in the drum.

fyi: there is a battery disconnect switch which is used in the burglar alarm industry which might be nice. when the battery gets low it disconnects whatever is connected, saving the battery from being completely drained. but depending on what the current draw is you may not need it. i just would hate to come out one morning to a dead car battery but my cordless tools were ready to work.