johnceggleston

timing belt not on correctly, used the wrong timing marks. did it ever run after the gaskets were done or is this a ''i put it back together and it will not run''. if yes, it could be simple. but it could be almost any thing. more info, please.

too fun!! is it possible that i'm just tickled by a little female input?? happy motoring!! hun!!

to twitch definitely NOT to twitch.

what if i called you darling??? or , ''you don't have to call me darling, darling.'' this is fun. encore! encore!!

and i'm still waiting for my fairy-god-mother to make richer, more famous and better looking than george clooney. my guess is that you will get your wish before i get mine. but a subie owner can still dream.!!!!!!

you can buy a tap for a few $ and thread the holes. just make sure the tread size matches the puller you have / borrow. but you might try tapping on it first. if you can ''break it loose'' it may come off. just don't booger it or brake anything.

i'll take your word for it, but i'll never be able to tell since i'll never buy a fekpro gasket for an ej25. i've been trained, indoctrinated even. plus the price is the same? or not much different when buying oem online (or wholesale local dealer) vs. retail felpro. (i think, i'll have to check. what's the cost of a felpro gasket?) EDIT: felpro at advance autoparts =$36.00 dealer wholesale = $32.00 online dealer = $32.00 plus shipping.

timing belt kits with good parts and prices can be had from ''theimportexperts'' on ebay. oem gasket have been redesigned. order them on line fron www.subarugenuineparts.com or www.subarupartsforyou.com. they cost about 75$ for the pair. get cam and front crank seals from them as well. there is a plate on the rear of the block that tends to leak, ''oil separator plate''. either replace or reseal. (some are /were plastic, they crack at the bolt holes. definitely replace those.) DO NOT replace the rear main seal. they don't leak until they are replaced, usually. and probably you should re-seal the oil pump. it holds the front crank seal and there is an o-ring on the back side that can age and leak. you use RTV ultra gray from the parts store instead of a gasket. check the screws on the back side backing plate. they can back out. if it is not leaking you can leave it alone, but if you do all of the above you will be / should be good for 100k miles. oh yeah, in case no one has told you yet, pull the engine to do the work. it can be done in the car, but it is easier and the success rate is higher if you pull it.

i don't think you heard any one here say use felpro. OEM ONLY. no copper spray, put them on dry. do a search for the torquing sequence. it's been posted several times. or get a manual from the parts store.

misfire 2 & 4 shouldn't be the coil. those are shared 1/2 and 3/4, but who knows. swap the wires. if any one else had this problem i would say the driver side cam is off, you didn't use the arrows did you?? and check the the cam sprockets??? probably not. save checking them until you have spent 6 - 8 hours scratching your head.

i would double / triple check to make sure all the air is out of the system first. this is the most common cause of overheating after filling the cooling system. open the vent plug , elevate the front end, and let it idle until the fan kicks in, or the t-stat opens. then add coolant until full and close it up. filling too fast will mess with the coolant level. and it's possible the gasket is bad, again, but that would be my last guess. a blocked radiator would come before a bad gasket, but some one else may know more.

it depends on what car you have. foresters are different than outbacks or GTs. do you want a 2.5L engine or a 2.2L engine? why not just do the head gaskets again and replace the burned exhaust valve in #4 cylinder . be sure to adjust the valves while you have it out.

i think the ''the crown of the piston'' refers to the top of it, not the shape of it.

give him 3/09/98 as a build date. 9/3/98 would be a 99.

how deep did you seat the rear main seal? did you use a subaru seal? did the crank have excessive end play? did you notice? have you replaced the valve cover gaskets? or the cam cap o-ring on the rear of the passenger head?

i'm prety sure the owner's manual for my 98 outback said that a flashing CEL indicated a condition that COULD harm the cats. a misfire , or maybe more correctly, multiple cylinders misfiring, could be that condition since dumping raw fuel into the cats can damage them.

some one should have told the ej25 designer.

no the head is not drilled, the casting is there but it is solid, not drilled. you are correct, for it to be a straight swap, you need an engine from an auto trans car. call the yard and explain to the sales agent what happened. see if they will knock 100$ off for having to make a second trip. (and suffer / witness the abuse.) sounds like the owner's son is a real a$$. try to work the deal and not involve him. a mistake was made when they pulled the engine. but what a dummy, he lost the sale by not pulling the right one and he lost a customer by not being half way decent. and maybe he lost other customers too.

a good source is http://www.car-part.com . they have all sorts of parts. sort your search by distance. shipping is expensive. now, to walk the tight rope. since you did not SPECIFICALLY ask for a 2.5L engine, let me say, you could use a 2.2L engine from 95 - 98 car with an auto trans. the will bolt in and do not have the head gasket issues that your car no doubt has. 95 is a little easier but 96 - 98 will work if you buy the exhaust manifold as well as the engine. the loss in power between the 2.5 and the 2.2 is negligible and the 2.2 is WAY more reliable. and since you are looking for a replacement, the 2.2 is a better solution, in my opinion. and it is cheaper. search ''ej25 swap'' and read some of the threads on it. of course if you had asked for info about repairing your 2.5L engine, that would have been different ......... my opinion would have been the same, but my answer might have been different, more politically correct.

depending on the condition of the car, 3750 is a fair asking price, and 3500 is a pretty fair selling price. but 3000 would be better for you. there are 2 pricing web sites you can visit. the first is used by dealers and sellers to show what a car SHOULD sell for. http://www.kbb.com . the second shows more closely what they actually sell for. http://www.edmunds.com . it is not usual for there to be a 2000$ difference between the two. but if you buy the car for 3500 and drive 35k miles , not bad. drive it 50k miles, you did ok. 100k , you did great. buying a used car for 3500 and driving it 50k miles is like buying a new car for $25,000 and driving it for 350k miles. what you are buying is miles primarily, and comfort second and lastly enjoyment. and you are paying for them in advance. so the more miles you get for your money the better.

one other important piece of info. is the seller the the same owner who was driving it when the gaskets failed.? or did he buy it with bad gaskets to repair and sell.? the difference is that the guy who buys to repair and sell, he has more wiggle room on the price. he may want $3500, but he may take 2750, or 3000 or even 2500. the owner who has just made the repair and is now selling to avoid taking a complete bath financially, he may be less likely to deal, unless he is so tired of it that he just wants out. regardless, it is good info to have before making an offer.

the hole for the role pin is off center, so if it won't go in, turn the axle 180* and try again. it should go then. i usually test it with my 3/16 punch before i try the role pin. the punch is smaller and if it hangs up any at all, i try it the other way to see.

let's see, what is it i want to say, ummm .....WOW !!! no ''f***ing'' wonder.

welcome to the wonderful world of subaru. it sounds like there are a couple of things to check further. the ''pin hole leak'' for one, and the reliability of the head gaskets for the other. the pin hole could be a slightly loose clamp or a bad hoes. (this assumes you saw it coming from the top hose and not an ''unknown'' place.) i would not buy it without a good bit of confidence. the head gaskets on the other hand is a crap shoot. were they done correctly? were subaru gaskets used? (sounds like they were.) and more importantly was the engine driven / run while overheating? which would / might cause it to throw a rod or spin a rod bearing. the real test for an engine with BAD head gsakets is a 30- 45 minute drive, or more, at hiway speed. typically bad head gaskets can idle all day, and run around town as well, with no sign of a problem. your take on the guy is valid and worth a good bit. if you didn't trust him i would say walk, he is a stranger after all. my best advice is, if you buy it and learn you need to spend $1500 on head gaskets in the first year, can / will you survive financially. if the answer is no, you are better off buying one with bad gaskets and have a quality shop re-do them. or do a swap which eliminates the bearing concern. i have a 98 outback auto trans w/ 141k miles for sale. i just installed a 95 2.2L non-interference engine in it. so the head gaskets and other related issues are not a concern. same price.

ooops. double post.