johnceggleston

there is a vinyl ''decal'' strip that runs the lenght of the car. it is the same width the whole way, just like over the wheel wells. and is mounted just above the ''rubber / plastic'' door molding. every thing below the molding is paint.

my 97 outback did this every now and then. the worst time was whan the weather went from cool to warm and humid over night. the conditions were so weird, moister was condensing on the engine block and heads. it also happened after several days of hard rain. i would suspect the wires or coil before the plugs since those are more exposed to the weather. but the plugs are not too expensive, at least bot for 96 - 99 ej25, so doing them as well can't hurt. a test you might try. at night with the engine running, use a water mister to spray around the engine, look for ''lightning''.

2 bolts with nuts go through the tie down loops on the rear of the undercarriage and then 2 bolts drop down from inside the chassis frame with 2 nuts. theses nuts are easy to get to but the bolts from the inside are more difficult. i might remove the nuts, washer and then the hitch and then reinstall the nuts and washers. this would eliminate having to take the ''cargo area apart to get the bolts out. and it would keep road dirt from entering the car.

lordy, i'm glad it isn't mine to work on. so the driving part of the speedo cable was above, outside of the seal? and has been removed? and then the speed sensor just threads in? i have a cable driven auto trans and i want to swap it to a speed sensor.

if the CEL does not come on when you turn the key to ''on'' then it is either burned out or missing. if you can drive the car go have the codes read, if not ''borrow'' a reader.

it's torque bind. if you have a lot of free time search ''torque bind'' and read up. 3 common causes: 1. bad duty c solenoid in the rear extension housing of the trans which controls power to the rear wheels. (this usually will give you a flashing AT Temp light at start up.) 2. worn out, dirty, or gummed up clutch dics in the rear extension housing. 3. dirty trans fluid. 4. much less common, it may be caused by a bad trans computer. or a combination of some or all of the above.

did you ever resolve this?

why do you ask?

how long have you had the car? if new to you , the seller probably removed the bulb to sell the car. does it run? drive it to a parts store and have the codes read. there may be none, but you don't know until you have them read. or remove the instrument cluster and swap a bulb in from another position just to see if it is on.

i don't know where you got maf sensor. this link shows maP sensor. typo? the map is on the strut tower. and when i had this code, after an engine swap, it was a lose vac hose on the strut tower. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0106

which sensor did you replace?

on the ej22, if you line up all the timing marks you will not be lined up for the screwdriver through the bell housing trick. but if you turn the crank about 30* counter clockwise you will be able to use the ''through the bell housing'' trick. this will move the pistons but you would have to rotate the crank 90* to bring one to the top of the block. i don't know if '06 engines are the same. hth

it varies by area and quality of the metal. in my town scrap cars are now bringing $9.50 per hundred pounds. (in NC it's 8.50.) so a legacy might bring $300. a trans maybe $25.

so it's not a new belt? maybe it should be if the crank pulley fell off.

probably not damaged. cheap belts will stretch. i gave up on mine and and replaced it. but even a good quality belt may have to be adjusted after awhile of driving. check and see how much deflection / tension you have in the belt. you want less than 1/2" i think.

it's the contacts in the solenoid. they are maybe old, worn, scorched, and the electricity is not strong enough to jump the gap. wiring power straight from the battery is stronger and over comes the gap and any wear and tear on the contacts. new contacts does the same thing, improves the connection in the solenoid. the solenoid activates and then the starter.

i pumped the gas out of a wreck by powering the fuel pum. i didn't run it through the filer though. i did how ever use about 30 ft. of wire so iwouldn't be standing next to it , just in case. or just open the access hole and siphon it in to a gas can on the ground

i agree, it's most likely the contacts in the starter. replacing them will likely cure the problem. but since jumping power from the battery to the solenoid starts it why not add a relay . that's what i did. there are a couple of good write ups. basically you disconnect the small wire from the starter solenoid and connect it to the new relay. then you run a new wire from the relay to the starter solenoid. and finally you run a new ''fused'' power supply wire from the battery to the relay. (you probably will also need to run a ground from the relay to the car body.) now when you turn the key you activate the new relay which switches power directly from the battery to the starter solenoid. this worked for me 6 years ago and is still working. i never replaced the contacts and never removed the starter.

i don't know, but when some one was dealing with a roof rack issue, they just pulled it down enough to gain access. i would think removing the trim in the area would allow you to pull down a corner. carefull of the sunroof control / light fixture.

since you cleared the drain hole in the ''drip pan'' the chances are good that the the drain tube that connects to the drain hole has come lose. i hear it is not a difficult fix just a little awkward to get to. info below is from this thread, post #16 and #18. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/drivers-side-floor-wet-158326.html?t=158326&highlight=sun+roof taglines: leakysunroof, sunroofdrains, sunroofleaks, sunroofdraintubes.

it was not standard on the brighton, but it was an option, auto trans was the same. AWD was standard.

my son's 95 lego auto has been leaking oil for about 35k miles, about 10k after the timing belt was done at 160k. it now has 205k. not a lot of oil but enough so you have to check it. i told the shop to replace all the front seals with the t-belt. but i did not say ''re-seal the oil pump and replace the o-ring'' specifically. so i don't think it was done and i assumed that was the cause of the leak. last month it started dripping oil after it had been driven. so he quit driving it. i finally got around to addressing it and i found the passenger side cam seal loose on the end of the shaft and a little angled. it was not seated at all. any one ever seen this? the driver side was tight as was the crank seal, but i replaced everything anyway and i'm hopeful to have ''fixed'' it. i have no idea what brand of seals were used, but i wondered if this might be an ''off-brand'' issue? 5k miles after the t-belt was done last time the auto trans died so i had the same shop install my used trans. i bought a wrecked 96. i did have them replace the oil separator plate with a new one at that time so the back end should be good. but with so much oil EVERY WHERE it is hard to tell. i thought i'd drive it for a while and see if it drips, or ''uses'' oil. i gave him the car when he graduated from high school and told him if he took care of it it would take him through college and into his ''new'' job. then he could buy what ever he wanted. graduation is next month. yippoo!! comments?

and DRAIN THE TRANS FLUID before you load it. this may be difficult if it has already been pulled but the fluid will puke out of the rump roast end if you tilt it the wrong way. i then put a rubber glove over the end. this will catch any drips, but not absolutely secure. whose taurus are you using?