johnceggleston

2 things: 1. remove the FILL PLUG FIRST. you do not want to drain the rear diff only to learn you can't refill it. 2. i used a bent penny to make the 1/2" drive fit a little tighter. you probably don't need to but it works pretty well. just bend a penny in to a 90* angle. i used my vice and a hammer. but big pliers and a hammer should work too. i love ''free'' tools, well $.01 tools any way.

did you look here: www.car-part.com ........look under ''computer'' i think. i usually suggest sorting your search by distance since shipping an engine or trans is so expensive. but for this part, you might sort by price and get a cheap one. shipping should be less then $10 i would guess. but you can do both ans then decide. ps: i have one from a 97 GT if you can't find one , but i'm sure there is one on that website, and probably cheaper.

the only difference in the outback and GT auto trans is the speedo gears. diff ratio is 4.44. and maybe the shift points in the TCU, but that's not in the trans so it doesn't count. off topic: it's funny how different forums lean in different directions. some want to lower everything and some want to lift. some want larger tires and some want to turbo. and no one wants smaller tires. but if you put smaller tires on your outback, like a 205/55/16 GT tire or the 15 inch equivalent (195/65/15 or 215/60/15), you will effectively make your car ''quicker'', sportier, like a GT. and you will lose about 5/8 inch in height.

95s had the sticker on the door post between the front and rear doors. 95s i don't really know probably the same as 95 but maybe 97. 97s they put it on the bottom of the drivers door. yes you have to lie on your back to read it and then if you wear reading glasses you will probably won't be able to see it, too close. 98s i don't really know, probably the same as 97. the opposed forces website uses build dates i think.

look for the large vac hose, size of your thumb, under the air intake ''tube''. it's a common miss when putting things back together, especially when you are excited about starting your ''new'' engine. and it will cause the symptom you describe.

i would look for a vac leak first. it may not be the problem but it is an easy fix if it is . loose or cracked hose. check the small hoses that go to the passenger strut tower. it could be something more but hoses first. i would also do a tune up, plugs, wires, filter, air filter ...and give the engine / car the once over. the car deserves it and you will enjoy it.

just like: ''would you like fries with that?'' or ''for $0.25 more you get twice as much.''

check all your vac lines, especially the large one on the under side of the plastic intake between the air filter and the throttle body. can you keep it running if you you give it gas??

clutch is gone.? can you shift it when the engine is off?

find your parts here: http://opposedforces.com/parts and order here: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com or here: http://www.subarugenuineparts.com regardless of where you order from, the shipping will kill the bargain unless you order a bunch of stuff.

outbacks did. but GTs and LSi had the 2.5L engine. the 2.5L may have been optional with the 5 speed in 96. any one know?

http://opposedforces.com/parts might be able to give you more info on your trans and diff if you know what car / year the trans came from. it will also tell you if there was a vlsd available. but regardless, there is no special fluid needed. the viscous lsd is a seal unit and it runs in reg diff gear oil. i doubt it is a vlsd. i don't THINK they were available in the legacys in the early 90s. i KNOW they weren't available in the late 90s. however if you wanted one you could get one from an 01 - 04 outback and swap it in. just make sue it has a 4.11 ratio.

yes, you want all four tires to be the same size. (with in 1/4 inch circumfrence) so you need to rotate your tires regularly. as for running on bald tires just before you replace them, if there is not enough tread to trust all 4 tires, then i would not trust the 2 of them matched with 2 good tires. here in the US, probably there as well, there are ''wear bars'' on the tires to indicate time to replace. there is still some tread left when the wear bars are reached. but for sure you need to rotate them so they wear evenly.

the flashing AT Temp light at start up means there was an electrical problem the last time the car was driven. if you start the car and then turn it off with out driving it you will clear the flashing light.

sorry, i thought you said that was the one you ordered for the rear sensor. my mistake. and i'm so old a can't remember what i read this morning, much less what i read 15 posts ago. again, my mistake. see post #4 above.

the bosch in that link says it is the upstream sensor for the outback. what car are you putting it on. the 95 has both the same i think. but 97 has a difference between front and rear.

have you tried changing the fluid?? since you have no flashing light, the duty c seems ok. the duty c bleeds off fluid pressure to regulate power to the rear. no pressure no rear power. the fuse activates the duty c 100% of the time instead of cycling it on / off. no power to the duty c means full fluid pressure. full pressure equals binding. dirt in the lines might cause the system to NOT bleed off pressure. so the duty c may not be bad. but it is a moot point. if you open it up you may as well replace it so you don't have to go back in later. but my real point: if the duty c is ok, something else is causing the problem. maybe dirty fluid or passage ways or grooves worn in the hub/drum. but if all you do is the duty c you may still have the problem. you are going to have to open it up and look at it. it would be really handy to have a replacement rear extension housing with good duty c, good hub, and good clutch plates ready to swap in. but that would be complicated and will cost you more.

it sounds like you have a very unique set of circumstances. 1. no flashing AT Temp light at start up indicating a bad duty c. if this is correct i wouldn't replace the duty c, it's not bad. at least the trans computer does not think so. 2. no FWD light on the dash (its red and low, left of center) when you put in the fuse. if this is correct the duty c is bad, replace it. i have never heard of this combination. one or the other, sure, but not both. something is not right. how does the car / trans run other than the binding?? does it shift alright? goes through all 4 gears? good pick up, down shifts ok? how long have you had the car? how long have you had the problem? do the AT Temp and the FWD lights come on with all the other lights when you turn the key on, just before you start the car?? it could be that the bulbs are bad or missing.

does it do this when making slow tight circles?

i assume the timing belt was done at 180k, but it would be good to KNOW when it was done. and since this is coming from ''family'', it would be really nice if the oil and filter was fresh when you picked it up. if not have it done before you hit the road. and maybe have them look the car over with ''will it make it'' in mind. and if you want to carry a few tools, a 4way screwdriver, and a 3/8 ratchet with 8, 10, 12, 14, 17mm sockets. if you aren't ''flying in'' to pick it up you can add some box end wrenches and extensions maybe a 19mm socket (for brakes maybe but i can't remember). carry some oil and a couple of gallons of water, coolant would be better. and as stated check the belts and hoses before you start. with the national chain auto parts stores, you could buy hoses and belts on the east coast and return them new, if not needed, on the west coast. that way a problem will only slow you long enough to replace the part. not the time it takes to find a ride and a store. oh yeah, and some duck tape.

if one of your t-belt idlers failed, you can be sure it was not replaced recently. most shops, even dealers, spin the idlers by hand and if they sound ok they don't replace them. as you have learned, this is a big mistake. you have to do the job twice. and on an interference engine you would probably have to replace some valves as well. congrats on a job well done.

what?

if the ''larger'' head gasket makes up for the .001? the difference, (i really have not been paying attention to the numbers) i would probably take a chance on it anyway. that's just me. but if you junk the heads you are out the machine shop money and the replacement money for the heads. i'd probably go for it. most of what you risk from here on out is labor and head gaskets. but , i would use this debacle as leverage with the shop to get better service and hopefully better prices in the future. especially if the heads fail. but even if the heads work out i would make a big deal of it with the shop. their work is risking your livelihood and your income. hopefully they can't be so secure in their business that they tell you to screw off. it sounds like you don't have a lot of choices in machine shops so take advantage of this situation and make it work for you.

there has been a lengthy discussion on this site debating the differences between the oem part and the same part manufactured by the same company. my take away from all of this is prety simple...... any part other than the oem subaru part may fix the problem. but if it does not... then you have to buy two parts and install two parts. where is the savings in that. many of us here on this site have found that the timing belt kits sold by ''theimportexperts'' on ebay have good quality parts for a good price. we use them and we recommend them. and we save money doing it. but when you read here, buy oem front o2 sensors, we have put the same discernment and experience into that conclusion. you should take our advice. it did not come with out a lot of trial and error.

HEY, i was serious. turn the key to on and ground out pin 5. if that does not work, ask again. but i bet it will. if i wasn't interested in helping i would not respond. i'm sorry my earlier response was too sarcastic. good luck.