johnceggleston

i'd concentrate in the area of the broken/ replaced evap solenoid. that's where the damage was, that is where the solution will be, hopefully. how do you know the replaced part was good? check the hoses in that area and any wire connections. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0441 i'll ask only because it happened to me when i did it, i know you didn't but, did you replace the ECU?

the air bag is a non-issue if you dis-connect the battery a few minutes before you start. i didn't and i had no trouble, but if you are worried, dis-connect. i did mine a few months ago. i got good advice, like loosening the nut holding the steering wheel on but do not remove it until the steering wheel is loose. you have to pull up on it pretty hard to remove it. if the nut is off, it can fly up in to your face. i used a puller i have but most folks say you don't really need one. the only other thing i remember is keep everything centered while it is apart. and keep the 'new' clock spring centered before you install it.

off topic is different. is that where you posted before?

i'd be willing to bet they are all the same. but you can get a part number from http://opposedforces.com . you can also see what other models it was used on. then just post a wanted ad. you can also try www.car-part.com and see if any one has one listed. or maybe someone has a core for parts. EDIT: any auto trans 98 - 04, impreza, legacy, and forester. link below to the page for your oil pan part number. if you click on ''useage'' to see what it fits. but as i said, i think they are all the same. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/31390AA080/

do you have a non-cable trans you can look at. i was wondering if the threads extended down below the oil seal. if so, even if the seal isn't threaded the threads may be in the housing and creating friction. i have a 95 impreza, cable driven auto trans in my shed. i didn't spend much time looking at it since it is a spare, but i know what you are dealing with.

depending on what car you have, you can buy a matching VLSD rear diff from an 01 -04 era outback or gt or what ever and bolt it in. a viscous limited slip diff was standard around then. a 3.9 may be hard to find but a 4.11 or a 4.44 should be easy, ~$150.00. what car, year, model, trans, do you have?? the other thing to try when you get 1 wheel spinning on the front and rear is to apply a little bit of brake.

i think the 106 is related to the small vac lines that go to the passenger strut tower / fender wall . check there first. how long had the engine been sitting before installed it. and i'd let it idle. maybe add a little engine cleaner, MMO or ATF and let it idle. if it doesn't quiet down after a while you may need to remove the HLAs and bleed them. but i've done 2 swaps with HLAs. one was so loud i thought it had a rod knock. and idling always brought them back to quiet smooth running. if you add something to the oil, change your oil sooner rather than later, 1k?. you don't want to go 3k miles with that stuff in your engine.

at the bottom is the torquing specs info from the 1997 subaru FSM for DOHC engines. two things of note: 1. no where does it mention using new bolts, just new gaskets. 2. the max torque applied to the bolts is 51 ft lbs, which is then released by a 180 degree rotation, twice. the next torquing is to 25 ft lbs in the center and 11 ft lbs in the corners. then a 90 degree tightening for all bolts in sequence, twice. THERE IS NO WAY 51 FT LBS or 25 ft lbs plus a 90 degree turn, twice, much less 11 ft lbs plus 90 degrees twice stretches the bolt to its yielding point. as i understand it this process which is similar to torque-to-yeild but is not really TTY, is designed to pre-load or pre-stress the gasket. but what do i know. (by the way, there has been more than one backyard mechanic that has torqued the head bolts to 132 ft lbs because they mis-read the haynes manual where it said 132 INCH lbs, which is 11 ft lbs.) from the 1997 FSM (section 2-3b, page 45). E: INSTALLATION 1. CYLINDER HEAD (1) Install cylinder head and gaskets on cylinder block. CAUTION: Use new cylinder head gaskets. 2) Tighten cylinder head bolts. (1) Apply a coat of engine oil to washers and bolt threads. (2) Tighten all bolts to 29 N⋅m (3.0 kg-m, 22 ft-lb) in numerical sequence. Then tighten all bolts to 69 N⋅m (7.0 kg-m, 51 ft-lb) in numerical sequence. (3) Back off all bolts by 180° first; back them off by 180° again. (4) Tighten bolts 1 and 2 to 34 N⋅m (3.5 kg-m, 25 ftlb). (5) Tighten bolts 3 , 4 , 5 and 6 to 15 N⋅m (1.5 kg-m, 11 ft-lb). (6) Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in numerical sequence. CAUTION: Do not tighten bolts more than 90°. (7) Further tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in numerical sequence. CAUTION: Ensure that the total “re-tightening angle” [steps (6) and (7) above] do not exceed 180°.

year, model, and miles would help. the temp gauges do ride at the mid point most of the time, once it warms up. the 96 - 99 ej25 has a tendency to overheat due to bad head gaskets, but most of the other EJs do not. if they run higher than that something is out of whack, normally. 'cooking' could be oil leaking on to the exhaust or an busted axle boot. look under the car and see if it has oil any where.

is it threaded? what does the replacement look like?

Tip: the bulb is going to be really cheap, but if you swap the bulb from ''1'' with the one in ''d'' you won't even have to buy one. i usually end up doing these jobs twice. once to figure out what i need and the second time to fix it. swapping the bulb with a known good one will save you a trip to the parts store.

the 96 outback trans has a different final drive ratio. you can't use it unless you use the rear diff from the outback as well. if the pan is dented there is a good chance that there is a wiring problem inside the pan. ther is very little room between the pan and the valve body. dented pans can cause all sorts of problem. remove it , fix or replace it and see. how did the pan get dented?

yes and no. i've gotten this one wrong so many times i've quit trying to qoute the ratios for 90 - 94. 95 manuals are 3.9. but 90 - 94 manuals are not ALL 4.11. there is a change between 91 / 92, i think, can't remember. but the ratios for manuals and autos flip flopped in 95 and in an earlier year. and turbos did not follow these rules. they had their own.

these should all be phase 2 engines and as long as the 99 legacy is a 2.2L and not an outback or GT 2.5L all 3 of these engines will swap with each other. however, the cam sprockets may need to be swapped. they re-designed it at some point. but swapping in the one that came with the car / computer will make it work. compare the cam sprockets when the engines are out, if they are different, use the original.

i also like the fact that the GT speedo goes to 120 and the L speedo goes to 140.

96 lego L 97 GT

there's no way it will fit. the picture doesn't even fit on my monitor.

a rusty rotor is probably an indicator of a stuck caliper. if you fill the master cylinder and then pump the brakes does the pedal firm up or still go to the floor. if it firms up and then over time goes to the floor you have leak. if it goes to the floor with the master cylinder full it could be the master cylinder. or it could be leaking so fast you never get pressure. try the above and then look for fluid on the ground.

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there aren't any mounting points on the trans to switch the sensors to. they are spped sensors, i think, like the rear speed sensor on the trans and very much like the cam and crank sensors that work off of reluctors?, i think. it is possible you could use a 99 in a 97 by discarding the wires to the un-needed sensors but i'm not sure and i don't think any one has tried it. as i said, you can't cross the phase 1 / phase 2 line. it is one of the few that you can't cross. (the dealer mechanics would never tell you a 95 ej22 will drop in and run in a 99 ej25 outback, but it will. ) try the trans-x, it has worked for some folks for years. others not so much. but if you can drive the car for an $8 fix, why not. even if it is just to buy time while looking for a trans that will fit. then if you do need a trans you can try looking on www.car-part.com . sort your search by distance. shipping is expensive. (by the way, the interchange software will probably only return 99s when looking for a trans for your car. if you want to see 00 or an outback trans you will have to search them year separately.)

first, the 99 trans is the first year of the phase 2 auto trans. it has a known slow to engage issue, at least the outbacks do and the forester is the same trans. some people have had good success with replacing the fluid, 3 drain and fills, and adding a bottle of ''Trans-X'' on the last fill. (a power flush is not recommended) there is a long long thread on this. search ''trans-x'' or transx or trans x, maybe throw in the word success, posted by rooster2 and read up. so using it may eliminate or postpone swapping the the trans. it sounds like doing the swap is no big deal for you since you have a lift and know your way around a shop. but it is time and some money. no need to spend either if you don/t have to. second, the phase 1 / phase 2 line is going to be a difficult one to cross in a swap. not only did they change the bolt pattern, which you can over come, but they changed the wiring harness and connector for the trans and added more sensors to the 99. so the 97 will not work in the 99. you need a 99 or 00 trans. maybe up to 04, but those aren't my years so i'm not sure. try the trans x . when you jump in you jump in BIG. welcome to the party. let us know how it goes.

your 99 is a phase 2 ej22. its design is more like the ej25s 96 - 99 than the ej22s of earlier years. and the intake manifolds are interchange able with the phase 2 ej25s which were put in outbacks in '00. they discontinued the ej22 in 00 in the legacys and 01 in the imprezas.

AWD or FWD? search http://www.car-part.com and they will offer you years that match. other years may work, too.

i believe so.

Quote: Originally Posted by 3Pin Isn't a 97 ej-22 a phase one? I thought the first year gen II 2.2 was 99 on a legacy? it all depends on your definition of phase 2. most folks seem to refer to the 99 as the start of the phase 2 ej22. that's when they changed the heads and made the ej25 intake manifold interchangeable. but they certainly made some changes when they made the ej22 non-interference, in the 97 MY.