johnceggleston

unbolt the sway bar from the control arm as long as the arm is spring loaded it will be difficult. the sway bar is easy to line up and reattach as the car is lowered to the ground.

if you haven't removed the old one yet, and it sounds like you have, can you manually extend the antenna and just leave it up? just a thought.

i was on their website looking at parts and pricing just before you had this problem. they have lots of parts, and almost none are cheap. the GMB water pump that comes with the 2.2L timing kit for $125, sells for ~$65. when they add it to their kit, the price goes from $90 to $125. either 65 is way high or the kit is a real bargain. i'm not sure what this means, except that i will not be ordering a GMB pump from their web site by itself. it's good that they accepted responsibility for the problem. any one can make a mistake. it's how they correct it that makes all the difference.

from a certain perspective, non-interference is a luxury, it cost power. you can squeeze more a little power out of an interference engine with out increasing the displacement.

the 10 closest to me, on http://www.car-part.com go for $50 - $85.

not if you fill to the full line. all the dip sticks are the same. dip stick usage: http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/11140AA046/ (click on usage)

yes, but they are interchangeable.

what car? what year? wagon or sedan? the ifo above is true for 90 - 99 legacys and probably all subarus before and after but i'm not sure. don't start in the car. i don't think the salt would rust out a line inside, but maybe. you can do a visual underneath the car with out removing any thing. wagons are little easier since you can fold the seat forward and see where the lines go through the floor to the rear wheels. i would start at the rear wheels and work your way forward. good luck. where are you located?

since you are a car guy, i'm going to assume you know how to fill w/ fluid and then bleed the brakes. but then the question becomes where did the fluid go? and if it is not leaking at a caliper, did you disconnect anything during your recent inspection, look for a rusted out brake line in the rear. they are not common, but not unusual in the rust belt. i think the lines run inside the car along the floor at the doors, driver side, and then go out to the rear wheels under the back seat. check under the car first.

if it is designed like the speedo cable connection to the trans, the oil seal is outside the snap ring. they look similar in the diagrams, but there is no way to tell for sure from the rack diagram since they don't label all of the parts in the ''kit''. http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_43/automatic_transmission/at_speedometer_gear/

item #2, input shaft ''repair kit'', part number 34128AA190. SEEMS like it would be pretty easy to do if it were off the car. if you drove the seal back in, was there any thing behind it that was slipping out. i don't know how the oil seal stays in but the rest is kept in by a clip. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/steering/power_steering_gear_box/

the definitions are listed at the bottom of the thread list page.

The Import Experts, they sell kits on ebay.

i think they are just for looks. small rocks will go in between and large are likely to break both the 'grill' and the light. but they do look good.

i fear that over the years, TIE has been lowering the quality of the parts in their kits. the first kit i bought 3.5 years ago had the an oem quality metal water pump gasket. the last one i bought did not. i never checked the brand of the idler bearings but they now ship GMB. i do seem to remember that the first kit had a double bearing in the lower idler but i'm not sure. the last 2 have had single in both. my $.03 worth.

what car? there is a thread about an 04 - 05 i think that gets loose in snow? i can't remember.

you have air in the brake line. you need to bleed your brakes.

i had a local garage replace both of my ''bellows'' with napa parts, $125. labor was $30 a side and parts $65 for both. and they weren't even a subaru shop. i was going to do it my self, but working on jack stands i couldn't get a long enough breaker bar on the lock nut to break them lose. if you don't need the tie rod ends, inner or outer, i'd leave them alone. they could go another 50k miles, or more. and if you know what you are doing, you don't even need a front end alignment afterwards. i wouldn't do it. anf if i decided i was going to do it , i would get a second price quote from a different shop.. any chance the bellows were good before you took the car in??

the knock sensor code, if that's what it is, is not because of the swap. it is probably because the knock sensor on your new engine is bad. swap in the one from the 2.5L engine if the connector is the same. they went to a 2 wire set up at some point, but most in the 90s are one wire, i think. i priced them online and on ebay the other day, some one had them for <$30. sounded too good to be true.

bump this is not a surprise to anyone?? or just not true?

end wrench says it is the new procedure for REAR bearings. is it also acceptable for front bearings?

try http://opposedforces.com/parts/

+1, what brand of parts did you use? where did you get them? did the belt damage the idlers or vice versa? or was it the combination of bad belt and bad parts? it's probably not worth the time or effort but you could add one new part at a time to isolate which one or two are the problem.

time to find a different shop.

i came across this info on the import experts web site when pricing a timing belt. i was surprised. has anyone ever heard that the crank position is slightly different on a cali belt? another good reason not to use the marks on the belt.