johnceggleston

you should have grabbed a tensioner too. that way you could have one compressed and waiting for the next attempt. my rear view mirror is 20/20.

the pics are so small they aren't going to be much help to us so we can help you. but if this stuff started after a visit to a shop, you need to get them to fix it. however it might be wise to get a second opinion before you go back so you KNOW what is going on and if they tell you anything different you'll know. if you can get us better pics we may be able to help you better.

if that is a date then it's already been swapped. but i doubt it is a date. on the passenger side of the bell housing about mid point, hi / lo, there should be a vin etched into the casing. you want to look for the letter in the 10th position, just before the last string of seven numbers. S=95 T=96 V=97 W=98 X=99

you may not need one if the pulley has been off recently but i've always used a puller. mine always seem a little stuck and the risk of breaking something important is just too high for me. but it SHOULD slide off.

un-fused has a risk, maybe for both the fan and the battery / electrical system. and un-switched has the risk of returning after class to a dead battery. other than that i don't see a problem. i don't know how much juice they pull, but a temporary wire from the fans to the cig. lighter might be a solution. it's fused. plug it in and the fans run when the car is on.

the most common repair is to use a dremel and smooth out the grooves. there is a good write up on it somewhere. the other parts, clutch discs and duty c are all available at the dealer. but i'm not 100% sure the grooves cause binding., but i don't know. i thought they caused a slow to engage AWD . but sa long as you have it open you may as well address it.

first, i'm taking it on faith that it is a 95, i have not checked the vin yet. but even if it is a 94 the swap should be the same. second, it has a cable driven speedo not a speed sensor. my 95 lego L has a speed sensor, so there is a difference between the USA built and the japan built auto trans of that year. chances are good that that the JDM ej22 is obd1 and the USDM is obd2. i'm pretty sure this is the case. finally, engine blocks and heads are not odb compilant. the electronics they hang on the block are. so if you strip off the obd1 intake w/ the harness, and bolt on the ej22 obd2 intake w/ harness there are very few differences between the two. and my research shows that all ej18s have an egr system. which means they all have the threaded port on the driver side head. mine certainly does. i don't know what this is. ??

i got the y-pipe with the engine. the ej18 is obd1 but if you remove the intake and wiring, you end up with a long block that is almost identical, except for some extra holes, to the ej22. so when you bolt on a ej22 obd2 intake and harness, presto change-o, it becomes obd2. i'll let you know how it goes. work is busy now, yea, so it may take a while.

the original pics are gone so i have added some that i took today. not perfect pics but better than none. if i get better ones while i can still edit i will add them. how to seat your torque converter , by mnwolftrack (copied from http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=672461&postcount=64 ) torque converter not seated. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Below is a picture of the first stopping point when sliding the torque converter into the transmission (assuming it had been completely removed). The first stopping point can vary a little bit, so don't be too concerned if yours stops in a slightly different spot. As this picture shows, the torque converter is not fully seated yet, the flange which is roughly an inch away from the front mounting surface of the transmission: ------------------------------------------------------------------------ From here, I make a "fishhook" with my pointer finger on one hand and suspend the tip of the torque converter in the "hook" to hold it's weight as if it were fully seated. This helps prevent the torque converter from binding when trying to seat it (makes seating easier). Then, I spin the torque converter clockwise a few times and then counter clock wise a few times to see if it will catch to get to the second stopping point (if a few spins don't do it, I do a few more. If it's still a no go, I pull the torque converter back out and put it back in in a different position). Here's a picture of the second stopping point (easliy confused for fully seated) : second stop pic below: If you think the torque converter is fully seated (above photo) at the second stopping point, it's NOT! It needs to go another 1/4 to 1/2 inch. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ To get the torque converter to fully seat, I spin in the opposite direction that just did that got it to seat in the 2nd stopping point. Then, when fully seated, it will look like this: (notice how close the face of the flange is compared to the engine mating face of the trans.) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Another angle of it fully seated, line of site no longer flush with transmission mounting surface, and you can see the black marker line a little better: ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Yet another angle, fully seated: tagline: ''seat torqueconverter''

i just picked up a ej18 from a 95 impreza auto w/ <100k miles. i'm planning on putting it in a 96 lego L sedan auto trans. i've read a couple of threads which were going from ej18 to ej22 and i think i know what is going on. i have removed the ej18 intake w/egr and plan on installing the ej22 w/ egr intake. this seems pretty straight forward as long as i route all of the hoses correctly. i also noticed i need to ad the knock sensor to the ej18 block. but there are some hoses /ports on the heads at the exhaust ports that i cant identify and don't understand. i plan on looking at the opposed forces web site to see what i can learn. can i just blank these off?? any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks guys. passenger side hose thingy. passenger side connection at exhaust port on head. driver side head connection, doesn't really look like it ties into the exhaust, too clean.

you're going to have to watch for a very long time. this thread is 4 years old.

go to the dealer and get the ''coolant conditioner'' from them. these engines are supposed to have it added to the coolant to prevent leaking. it will likely slow or maybe stop your head gasket leak. for a while any way. some one may know the ''off brand'' name of the subaru conditioner. you want to keep the coolant topped up. you do not want the engine to over heat. that is bad and may force you to replace the gaskets.

i thought water in the gas was non existent if your gas was 10% alcohol? and most places have some alcohol in their gas, at least the places i buy gas.

it may be the igniter, check to see if you have power going to the coil. i haven't done it so i won;'t guess, but if you have no power to the coil you'll be dead.

how about a longer bolt, maybe stronger, and a spacer.

so you have torque bind? and the fuse provides no change? does the FWD light come on with the fuse in place? does your AT TEMP light flash 16 times at start up? (does it come on with all the other lights in the ''on'' position just before you turn it to start?) lots of times this condition is caused by dirty fluid so a drain and fill may help. you can do it yourself, just like an oil change. doing it 3 times with driving in between (~1 gallon of fluid each fill.) will change out most of your old dirty fluid. MAKE SURE you know which is the ''trans '' drain plug and dip stick. there is also a front differential drain plug and dip stick. if your AT Temp light is not flashing when you start the car, then the computer thinks the duty c is still ok. but if the FWD light does not come on with the FWD fuse in place then the duty c is not working. this assume your AT Temp and FWD warning light are working properly. what is happening with your car??

i have less hands on experience than you do, but i would stick to where the noise is. any chance the mounting bolts for the tensioner or idler are messed up? the mounting bracket isn't cracked? it's hard to imagine that you removed the old and installed the new incorrectly, but if it got cross threaded some how? was it making noise before you replaced the tensioner? did you try the old tensioner again?

you should be able to remove the driver side cam cover and see enough to id which you have. but as said it should be the old style. i'd replace everything and then drive on, especially if time is an isse. if you have to redo it it will really cost you time. the kit with water pump is about 200$ from "theimportexperts'' on ebay.

ditto, get a used one. i ber scrapdaddytatum has one, he's in c'ville too. ej18s, ej22s and ej25s all used them until 97 / 98, more 98 i think. they should be all over the place.

(thanks, google images)

i bought a 97 obw with a ''bad wrist pin'' for cheap. (i already had the ej22 engine and i was looking for a way to use it.) turns out it was piston slap. i drove the car for 40k miles and with no engine work and just recently sold it. what's your engine doing? who told you it was a ''broken wrist pin""? have you taken it to a ''subaru'' mechanic.? your situation is probably not the same as mine, but non-subaru mechanics mis-diagnose things all the time. i don't even know if '00 have piston slap.

worst case , it's rod knock. that's pretty much terminal. mid range case, it's piston slap. this usually happens when cold at start up and goes away, or mostly goes away, as the engine warms up. this is a pain but not an indicator of eminent failure. you can live with it, i did for 40k miles and then i sold the car. but it could be the t-belt tensioner. they can make a knocking noise whnen the start to fail. and if it fails you will be looking at a head gasket / valve job. very expensive. i suggest you buy a $4 ''mechanics stethoscope'' from harbor freight and listen for the noise on the timing cover under the alternator. that is the general location of the tensioner. if that's what is making the noise, replace it sooner than later, a failure is expensive. if the noise is not '' rod knock'' i would do a complete timing belt job, belt, water pump, tensioner, and all idlers. and any leaking seals.

it should be a direct swap with no problems as long as both are 2.5L engines and both are non-turbo. the 6 cylinder and or turbo may have a different final drive ratio. so you ought to double check. look under the ''TRAIN'' heading for 'individual differential' (and check the ring and pinion or gear set ratio) once you get that far with the link below: (i'm pretty sure they are both a 4.44 ratio and that would be the only possible difference.) http://opposedforces.com/parts

i'm not completely comfortable with all of the info in this post. first, not all 2.2L engines are non-interference. 90 - 96 are but 97 - 00 are interference. second, holding the crank pulley / harmonic balancer with a chain wrenh does work, i've done it, but it can damage the pulley creating another problem. besides there is an easier way to do it and you don't have to buy a tool. see this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=993364&postcount=46 and finally, the old style tensioner is very reliable but the new style has a shorter life span, in my opinion. do not assume it is good.

in case it hasn't been said yet, the stubs on the trans are held in by cir-clips. so they tend to have a little play, in and out.