johnceggleston

i'm not 100% sure, but the OEM only is for the 2.5L engine. the ej22, which you have, is not as sensitive, i don't think. having said that i have bought some off brand seals, cam and crank, and i am not happy with the quality. if you do some research about online subaru parts and compare them to quality local parts store parts, napa and felpro maybe, i think you will find the the price on the head gaskets is not a make or break point on the parts. in other words, felpro will probably do fine on the ej22 but i doubt you will save 50% compared to oem online prices. check around. www.subarugenuineparts.com www.subarupartsforyou.com as for seals, cheaper is not better. i would stick with quality parts. i bought a cheap set and have leaks within two years. i have to re-do some.

well first, it is impossible to have torque bind and FWD only, at the same time. unless you actually have a rear diff problem or dragging brakes or bad drive shaft or ..... something. i think a rear diff problem would make noise. the statement in red above means that the mechanical parts are all in place and working. you have 4wd locked when you unplug the trans wiring harness. so now the question, is the TCU working properly? the pages below (thanks eulogious) show the pin out on the TCU and how to test each pin for proper function. give it a read and test the pins for the duty c, FWD fuse and any other related stuff. hopefully you will find the problem. EDIT: if one of your speed sensors is bad that could cause FWD only, but if the front one was bad the speedo wouldn't work. if the connection between the speedo and the computer is bad that could be a cause. if the computer, TCU, does not ''see'' both sensors, it will default to FWD. my personal opinion is that your AWD is working properly, but i'm not driving the car and can not feel what it is doing. another thing you may try if you haven't already. drive it on the hiway with the fuse in and FWD lit. you should be able to ''feel'' the difference in how it drives. (dry pavement.) have you tried spinning the rear tires on ice with the fuse out and the gear selector in 1? i'm sure you must have but don't remember all of this thread and i thought i'd ask. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=996223&postcount=8

you don't want to do a ''flush'' unless you absolutely have to. there is a chance the ''flushing'' will move some dirt around and get it stuck in places it should not be. a ''drain and fill'' 3 times will not run that risk. and i wouldn't take my car to aamco if it was broken down on the street in front of the shop. IMO they offer that 50$ deal because they know they will get some rebuilds out of it. part of the process is to remove the pan and show it to you. ''look at all that dirt and metal in there, you better fix this now.'' i would take it to a local shop with the trans fluid and tell them what you want. a drain and fill, three times. after each fill start the car and shift it through all of the gears. you don'y have to drive it. then shut it off and drain and fill again.

i don't know 90 - 94 very well. any chance this car has a turbo?

it may just be the pic, but it looks like there is an inner rim that is boogered in addition to the spot on the outer edge. i've never done valves so i don't know. it may be that the part i see doesn't even come into contact with the valve.

cars101.com does not list a map light as an option for any of the 95 models. how ever, there is a sunroof option for the L and LS, LSi. my 97 sun roof control has a map light built into it. is the same true for 95? would it be possible to use the subaru sunroof control w/ map light for the after market sun roof.? might work.

and they look the same. if the 90 subaru their friend has looks different then it is not a legacy, probably a loyale. they are different. what do you mean by different front end? the final drive ratios change in 92 i think, so if a trans is what is needed, you better double check the ratios.

the 16 flashes you see at start up is only an alert signal like a CEL, not the actual trans code. if your TC is not locking up it is likely that you have a bad solenoid in the trans or maybe a bad wire connection. there is one that is responsible for the lock up i think. and the TC lock up mod is news to me. i haven't heard of it before. search for ''transcodes'' and see if you can learn how to read the actual trans code. there is a black? connector under the dash and you have to ground out pin# 6, i think. do a search.

95 - 99, legacy vs. outback there are differences, paint struts wheels, fogs, roof rack, but the biggest difference is the ej25 engine. the ej22 is more reliable, IMHO. but the 96 outback 5 speed came w/ the ej22. so that would be the best of both worlds. another option is to buy an outback that has had the ej22 swapped in. or buy one with bad gaskets and swap one in or ... there are lots of possibilities. the only ''outback'' mod you cannot put on a legacy is the step roof. the paint isn't really a big deal but the gray plastic decals that stretch the length of the car on each side are expensive. bumpers and fogs are pretty easy but may be hard / expensive to find used. roof racks are a little tougher if the lego doesn't have one but still doable. struts are easy, this will make it higher. i just did this to my 97 GT when i sold my outback. i was used to a taller car. i like it taller. once you are used to an outback height, a legacy L feels low. and as i get older..... but for reliability, affordability, and longevity the 90 - 98 legacy L or LS is a great choice. (LS has a few more ''options''.)

oops!

so, replace the valve and re-install? it looks good, even with the dents. given the overall condition of the car, and what i have heard of the seller. i'll bet the timing belt and idlers are good. but they are due at 180k. any oil leaks? the top looks surprisingly clean. how's the bottom? congrats.

if the cam and crank hash marks are correct, then the timing is correct. the belt marks are not important after you put it on. just he hash marks. drive on.

your first post said ''My front right wheel bearing''. if you enter ''steering knuckle'' in the search, you will be given the choice, left or right, ABS or not.

generally speaking there are 2 ways to go. find a combination of low miles and cheap near your home and go pick it up. or find lower mileage and cheaper in a non-rust state and have it shipped to you. time and money is up to you. and mileage may only be known if you call. ask ''what if it's bad?'' and see what they say. i don't think ''hub'' is the part you want. you want the ''steering knuckle''. there seems to be a few in SC for 25$. and some for 10$ in texas. http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?userSearch=int&userPID=1000&userLocation=All+States&userIMS=&userInterchange=BE%3ECDO_&userSide=&userDate=1997&userDate2=1997&dbModel=70.6.1.1&userModel=Subaru%20Legacy&dbPart=515.2&userPart=Steering%20Knuckle%20%28See%20Also%20Knee%20%26%20Strut%29&sessionID=200000000000000000307098877&userPreference=price&userZip=37862&userLat=35.7829&userLong=-83.6103&userIntSelect=580500&userUID=0&userBroker=&iKey=&userPage=35 hope this helps.

i had a tire with a nail in ti and as the tire got low i would feel slight torque bind in my 97 obw. as the tire got lower the binding got worse. i finally got out and look ed to see what was causing the problem. found it. the nail was on the corner of the tread and the side wall and so i cannot patch, plug or repair it. at least that;'s what both tire shops told me. so i swapped on my winter tires a little early last fall. with spring just around the corner, i now have to decide if i can replace just the one tire. i thought it was a no-no to have one mismatched tire.

assuming he isn't lying to you and it was really dead before, he probably drained the trans and filled the differential. it happens sometimes with newbies. sad but true. check the ATF dip stick and the front diff dipstick. if you don't know where they are ask. and then ask the seller to show you. if he gets them wrong then you'll know. ATF dip stick is ~24'' long, diff is about 4'' long. but the bottom line is it probably needs a trans. i wouldn't buy it unless you plan on paying for one. you might get lucky and not need one but i would not bet on it.

i'm not sure just yet. i'll keep it in mind. i need to decide / learn if it HAS TO BE a 98. i doubt it but you never know last night i swapped the 96 lego L ECU, that threw the codes in the 98 obw, into my 97 GT (w/ej22) just to see what would happen. the 97 GT seems to be running fine so far, no codes. i haven't driven the 98 obw w/ the 97 GT ECU in it yet. it starts and runs with out codes, but i didn't drive it and the codes i had in the 98 took 2 drive cycles to set. does yours have a big ''1Z'' on it and part number 22611-AD60A?

they may have changed the cam and crank sprockets during the 00 - 04 time frame. so you may have to swap them from your old engine. just compare them to see if they are the same. if they match then you are good.

short term maybe, but not long term. if it is an auto trans you can put a fuse, any fuse, in the FWD holder under the hood and it will not matter. but this is a short term fix. is the flat tire beyond repair?? the circumference of all 4 tires need to be with in 1/4'' of each other . a 10' or 8' steel tape measure, 1/4'' wide, is good for checking the circumference.

should be warm enough the next few days. consider this the mid winter thaw. 50$ go for it.

like all other lights on the dash, coming on when the key is in the ON position is a ''test''. this is normal. if it then starts flashing, that indicates a problem. as mentioned above, the duty c controls the power sent to the rear wheels. if working correctly, the power split between the front and rear is about 90/ 10 favoring the front. when the computer measures split in the front or a speed difference between the two, it sends more power to the rear, maxing out at about 60/40 favoring the front.

if you look at http://opposedforces.com/parts you can track down the final drive ratio for your car. they are listed under ''train'' as in drive train.

you need to do a drain and fill on the trans. just like a drain and fill for the engine oil. (your trans doesn't have a filter.) drain the trans fluid and measure it (~3.5qts.). add the same amount back in. after you do this, start the car let it idle and shift it through all of the positions on the selector. then shut it off and do it again. do it 3 times. you will need about 3 gallons of trans fluid. this may help your torque bind. let us know what happens. DO NOT DO A TRANS FLUID FLUSH>

most want 50$ or more, the one i found is $25. it's at a pick-n-pull but when i learned it was not my part number i never got around to asking if it was in the car or on the shelf. there web site is crap and i have tried repeatedly to down load the price list and i can't. i don't know what the u-pull-it price is.

does any one have any idea what would happen if i put a computer from a 1998 california outback (low emissions) into a non-california 1998 outback ? a local yard has one for cheap, but i don't want to buy a head ache. 1998 outback ECU# = 22611 AD62A (low emissions, calif.) 1998 outback ECU# = 22611 AD60A (fed. car)