johnceggleston

info on the alarm system 99 - 04. good luck. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#alpine

any spare fuse will do. if the duty c is bad you should have a flashing AT TEMP light at start up when the fuse is not installed. if the duty c is good you will have a FWD light on the dash and no torque bind when the fuse is installed. if nothing changes when you put the fuse in then there is probably more than one problem. the fuse activates the duty c which eliminates the power going to the rear wheels . this give you Front Wheel Drive only, no all wheel drive. if the duty c is bad it can not be activated and you will have torque bind, which is like 4WD with ''locked'' front hubs. you also can not put the car in FWD with the fuse. do you have a flashing AT TEMP light at start up?

press and hold the unlock button and see if that will unlock all the doors. mine does. no manual in the glove box? check www.cars101.com for programing info, i think. i don't know how to do it, but some have a way you can ''program'' it not to sound the alarm. that way you don't have to cut the wire.

this is the first time i have heard of this not working on a car with and alarm. maybe leave the battery disconnected longer. or maybe turn the key on and off 5 times real fast. maybe it is a bad battery and you don't have an alarm system on the car. what year and model of car.?

what year and model?

put the fuse in and see if it helps. you can drive it that way a long time but you run the risk of the duty c failing. (the fuse will not do any good if the duty c is already bad but then you should have a flashing AT TEMP light at start up.) short term, until you can fix it is fine. if the fuse helps, a fluid change, (drain and fill 3 times, not a flush) may help or fix the problem.

given what the engine needs, i would pull it and the head and then make the decision. let the condition of the inside make your decision for you. it's probably fine. it was getting more gas than it should but it was also still getting oil. dropping in an engine is easy but you already know you should: replace ALL the timing stuff and ALL the seals. so your $160 engine is going to be a little more than that. but the same is true of the one you have. i'd probably replace the engine and sell the old for parts. the driver side head and intake can bolt on to a 90- 94 engine and make it an ej25 swap motor. someone may want that. or save the parts if you plan on doing this again.

not the same lift, but you could add the outback 96 - 98 struts to get it . the fog lights are different as well as the front bumper, but most people wouldn't notice unless they compared them side by side. the piant job makes it look like an outback. 96 outback 5 speed has the 2.2L engine and all of the ''real'' outback stuff.

no, the flex joint is in the exhaust between the cats and the mid pipe. it is spring loaded. the EGR heads and the non - erg heads are the ''same'' except the egr driver side head has a threaded hole on the back side for the ''exhaust to egr'' connection. (it connects the exhaust port of the head to the egr doodad on the intake.) i looked around online for a picture, but no luck. if the engine is original and stock this is not your problem. but there was an exhaust leak problem in this regard during a recent swap. on the other hand, if some one has done a swap, all bets are off.

HOLD THE PRESSES. i swapped in another ECU from a 98 and both of my codes, p1104 and p0441, went away. apparently it is not a problem with the car, or the ''torque control'' or the ''evap flow'' but a difference in the ECUs and the ''pin out''. so i suggest finding a new ecu from a 98. mine had a ''Z1'' om the cover. i'm not sure it will help with the p0507, but the other 2 went away. after the ECU swap, and the first drive cycle, i had a p0440 pending. but after the second drive cycle all was clear. i will report back if it changes.

the ej22 engine, which you have is surprisingly good, even with trouble. you can get a replacement for 300$ , 150$ if it is a u-pull-it. swap the engine and drive on . but chances are good that it will run forever if you replace the gaskets. not hard to do but still a job. for me it would come down to the cost of the replacement engine vs. the parts. but gaskets are cheap and do not compete with the the replacement cost of an engine. regardless of what you choose, re-place or re-gasket, you will want to replace the timing belt and all of the idlers. good luck.

put the key in the ignition and turn the key to start and let go. DO NOT TOUCH IT AGAIN. open the hood, disconnect the negative battery cable and wait 2 minutes. reconnect the negative battery cable. get in the car. turn the key to off and then try to start the car again. report back here.

alvaro, this seems to be your longest recent thread, use it for all of your questions regarding this project. there is no need to start a new thread for each question. those of us who are here every day are going to read what ever you post with little regard for the title. posting a new thread for each question is a waste of time and computer space. good luck and keep at it.

don't mess with all of that. wrap a rag around the fuel line leaving the filter and pull it off. the rag will soak up the fuel, if any, and then carry the rag out side to evaporate. there isn't that much pressure. or that much fuel. just make sure you have a rag handy and that your drop light , if you have one isn't near by. by the way, if you haven't disconnected the battery yet you need to. you don't want sparks floating around. usually by the time i get around to working on a car, it has been sitting so long there isn't any pressure at all.

don't take the first offer. find a comparable car for sale and show it to them. the offer may go up.

the egr pipe runs from the intake on the driver side straight down to the rear of the head. if the pipe, about 3/8'' - 1/2'' diameter shaped like a staple, if the pipe isn't there you should be able to get your hand down in there. if it is leaking i would think you could here it as a loud exhaust sound.

just so you know..... there are a few, very few minor differences, like headlights, 2 piece vs. one piece, but most everything will swap. all the mechanical.

glad you got it. looked like a good one. my money is on jumped timing belt.

so this thing leaks when sitting over night? or only after it has been driven. park it in the drive way and let it idle for a while. at least a little while after it gets to operating temp. if it leaks when running you should see it drip. i would look around the area of the rad cap and over flow bottle and then the water pump. my guess is that the rad cap was removed to conduct the system pressure test, so it didn't get tested. cardboard is good too.

no difference. same trans. same final drive ratio. if you want you can study up here: http://opposedforces.com/parts

jazz, did you see this one? better hurry. it could need a valve / head job but until you look, who knows? maybe fairtax could diagnose it for you. he lives up there. maybe the timing jumped??? if it does need an engine offer $400. http://charlottesville.craigslist.org/cto/2208370442.html 1995 Subaru Legacy LS Wagon - $800 (Lake Monticello) Date: 2011-02-10, 11:25PM EST Reply to: sale-r3ypa-2208370442@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?] 1995 Subaru Legacy LS Wagon, 178,000 miles, Automatic, AWD, ABS, PS, PW, PL, AC, CC, AM/FM/CD stereo, sun roof, spoiler, fog lights, front passenger airbag. Well maintained incl. regular oil & filter changes. New brakes, new starter. Interior in great condition. Runs but engine needs some work (possible valve job). 2nd owner. Left front fender has a small dent from a deer running into it. If interested, email me and we can arrange a time to see. Located at Lake Monticello. Location: Lake Monticello it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

the one exception to all of the above is, if you want it to be ''quicker'' you might be able to affect this a little bit. if you use smaller tires. the 97 GT has the same trans as the outback, but smaller tires. the result is a ''sportier'' set up. so i would look into smaller tires and maybe taller struts, outback struts. (assuming the 02s are similar to the 96 - 99.) but any energy and money spent on ''custom intake'' or the similar, is just wasted.

most of the tie rod ends i have dealt with, all subaru, are pretty tight. it takes a fair amount of force with my fingers to move, swivel, the threaded piece. one i removed last fall moved pretty easily, much less force required. no unusual movement , just less force required. when does the tie rod end change from ok to not ok.? i replaced it, but i was just trying to learn at what point does it becomes too loose?? thanks

i don't think the abs wiring goes any where near the cats. so it may have happened at the same time but probably not because of the cat removal. the ABS problem could be build up on the sensor, metal filings or rust. mine has set a light in heavy snow. cats are more than $100. rather than buying a generic inexpensive cat, i would buy a cat off of some one parting out a car. often, a used subaru original part is a better buy than a new after market part. (there are a couple in NC, raleigh / greensboro, maybe) the used parts yards can't sell cats and the metal scrap companies around here don't pay much for them, $15 - $20. this guy has the whole car for sale. http://raleigh.craigslist.org/pts/2193314680.html FYI, the timing belt is due at 180k and if he had done it already he would have said so. that will run you 600 - 800 at a shop, maybe more. if the belt or an idler fails you will be looking at a head job instead of a timing belt job. it would likely cost double. if the car is clean and you like it then i would try and talk him down a little and go for it. let us know what happens.

talk to ''lmdew'' i've gotten a couple from him.