johnceggleston

it is probably just a typo or over site, but based on the errors in this ebay ad i'm not sure i would buy from mizumoauto. but who knows. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Timing-Belt-Kit-GMB-Water-Pump-Subaru-EJ18-EJ25-90-97-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZYearQ3a1995Q7cMakeQ3aSubaruQ7cModelQ3aLegacyQQhashZitem53e50e6d7eQQitemZ360325213566QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

mine did this , i added fluid and it went away. warm fluid expands and reads higher than ice cold fluid. add fluid.

it looks like a closed block to me!!!!! is it for sale?

i read on another forum that rather than buy replacement shims for the valve adjustment that you could remove material from the top of the valve stems. i did not understand this or believe that it was practical, but it is what i read. is any one familiar with this process or it's viability? thanks

they are a match, no problems . do the swap and drive on. no need for the TCU. do 3 drain and fills , with driving in between, to replace the fluid.

nice pics here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/change-heater-control-lights-95-99-legacy-26408.html

what is the doodad next to the canister in the rear.? i have a p0441 code, purge flow fault i think, and i assumed it was the what ever next to the canister. the previous owner backed the car into the waterway/ ocean when unloading his boat. the salt water has rusted up everything and i think it has messed up the doodad with the wire at the canister. 98 outback wagon.

i'm not sure you read the codes correctly. you need to do it the way it is called for. if you did not see the connectors , green and black, you were looking in the wrong area under the dash. i think josh, legacy777 (?? i can't remember if this is correct, please help) has a picture. look under the dash again, mine are in between the steering column and the center console. this may help: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6132&highlight=green+connector* gl

it sounds like you have torque bind. not a bad diff. there is a fuse holder under the hood, passenger side near the fire wall behind the strut tower. it's black about the size of a zippo lighter and it should have FWD printed on the top. open it and stick in any spare fuse, amps do not matter. then test drive the car. two things should happen, there should be a red FWD light on the dash and the problem should be gone. the car is now driving in front wheel drive, not all wheel drive. for more info search "torquebind" and read up. this is a $1000 fix at the dealer. try it and get back to us.

you do not need the in line fuse. that is just a handy connector to use to complete / ground out the circuit. but you can just use a switch and a wire. fuse is ok but not needed.

FYI: like the ''power button'' mod, the FWD fuse switches to ground. so just find the pin location at the TCU and you don't even have to go through the fire wall.

unplug it, test drive thew car for 5 minutes and then plug it back in. be sure to drive in tight circles on dry pavement. no harm no foul. you should feel binding shuttering jumping and the like. this test will show if the AWD transfer clutch is engaging.

a 96 impreza obs auto trans should be a 4.11, the 5 speed is a 3.9. why do you need a rear diff.? who said you need one? i agree that the rear diffs rarely fail, but it seems like the price is always more than $50.

the TCU, trans control unit, manages the AWD transfer clutch duty c solenoid. this determines how much power is sent to the rear wheels. if you disconnect the computer or or it dies then the trans goes into limp mode. part of this is ''locked'' 4WD which gives you torque bind. the other part is 3rd gear only. if you have torque bind with the 16 pin connector disconnected then the mechanics of the AWD system are working.

i don't see how. but who knows?? try this, there are 3 connectors on the rear of the engine passenger side near the fire wall. the largest one, 16 pins, goes to the trans. unplug it and go for a test drive. you should have: torque bind when turning tight slow circles and only 3rd gear. this is limp mode so you can drive home if the trans computer dies. try it and report back. if you have torque bind, then you have 4WD. how do you know you have only FWD with the fuse out ?

i think i'd check all the fluids and keep them filled, and just drive it. if bearing or crank damage has been done more labor and parts probably are a waste. if you can't drive it even with oil and coolant then it's done. but if keeping it full of oil and coolant means you can drive it , drive on. the oil leak, if there is one, will surface eventually. EJ22s can take a lot of abuse.

if you continue to get high readings i would change the oil and the filter and then add the proper amount of oil for your engine 4.2 qts for a 97 outback. then you know you have the correct oil level.

i was quoted $24 or so the check each head and ~$43 each to resurface them. so ~$135 for both.

i use the intake , but i have done it the other way as well. but what i really like is a tip i learned here. i use an old seat belt as a lifting strap. much friendlier for the engine than a chain.

i don't think you understand about the FWD fuse. installing the fuse puts the car in front wheel drive, at least it does for all the us legos i've seen. fuse out equals All Wheel Drive. if the car drives with the fuse out but not with the fuse in, i would look for a busted axle or differential in the front. it could be a trans problem, maybe, but i doubt it. read this for more info on AWD and FWD fuse, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119208&highlight=torque+bind

go ahead and do a drain and fill two or three times. you may get lucky and clear up some of your torque bind. if you can't / aren't going to drain and fill now, leave the fuse in unless it snows.

And... what happened ????

yes. in the early 00s VLSD were available in the outbacks, a 4.11 would be in a 5 speed. by 03 vlsd was standard on outbacks and available in GTs, (if not standard.) and as mentioned above the rear diff have not really changed in 30 years. so the 03 will fit in your 95. (although i have read that the flange size changed so you may have to swap yours in from your old diff, i'm not sure.) if you search www.car-part.com for legacy rear diffs - 2003 it will return several choices, stick to ''locking'' and your ratio, 4.11 which is an outback / GT manual trans.

well, it may be against the law to disconnect the air bags in a 93 subaru impreza, but my 2006 ford f350 super duty dually pick up comes with an on / off switch for the passenger side. so apparently as reality met up with intention, adjustments were made. i thought we covered this earlier, isn't there a form you can file for disconnecting the air bag. oh well.

i would not mess with the rear speed sensor, vss1. it is only used to compare front to rear for the transfer clutch / duty c engagement. (or for the ecu to know the speed if the front fails.) plus it does not unplug, you have to cut and splice. i would look for a bad connection between the speedo and the ECU. if the screw on the back of the speedo as mentioned above is the problem all the better. but if not i would check / clean all of the connections on the ''perimeter'' of the cluster. they are not your typical wire/ plug connectors. if you have ever pulled an instrument cluster you know what i mean. but having read the post above about the screw, i would check that first. if the speedo works, the VSS2 and wiring between the two is ok. the problem has to be after the speedo and before? the ECU.