johnceggleston

i wouldn't let the lack of cruise hold you back. i'm pretty sure you can have the dealer add it to any subaru from the 90s. of course it would be way easier and probably cheaper if it came on the car. but if you find a car you like and it's a deal you can always add it. good luck.

what's the air temp when this happens? had the car been sitting cold for a while? does / did it happen when she first started the car? on extremely cold days there is a condition that keeps the brakes from working. i'm not sure of the cause or the fix, but it happens to me every now and then. after just a minute it the brakes work fine.

good to know the details about anaerobic sealant. but i wonder about ''Any squeeze out will never harden and can not clog any oil passages.'' even though it does not harden, does that guarantee that a soft blob won't squeeze out, break loose and flow to a small oil channel? just a thought. still don't want to use more than is needed.

the filter is a screen, not a filter in the true sense of the word. i don't know about other auto trans, they may have a filer and need to have a magnet cleaned. but subarus do not. there is no filter, just a fine screen. and if the metal is on the magnet then it is not circulating with the fluid. and apparently ALL auto trans have metal in the pan. it is one of the things the trans shop shows the owner to SELL them on a rebuild. do the drain a re-fill several times. if it does not help you can always open up then. usually id they start to slip they are dead. but some times a fluid change will help. and a fluid change is always the place to start. if it helps , great. but there is no great advantage to ''dropping the pan''. but suit your self.

oops

you can do that during EVERY drain and re-fill. if you want you can do a drain and re-fill every time you change the oil for the next year.

1. not that this is in question , but TZ102Z2CBA is a 96 outback auto trans with the 4.44 final drive ratio. TZ102Z2DBA is an outback auto trans 97-98 w/ a 4.44 final drive. 2. DO NOT, repeat DO NOT run the trans dry of fluid. it can severely damage it. even if you are not driving the car. 3. do what you want, but dropping the pan will gain you nothing, NOTHING, there are no serviceable parts in side the pan that will improve the way the car drives. if the trans had a specific issue, then maybe, you could address some internal part and help it. but, as a scheduled service event, DON'T DO IT. multiple drain and refills by the trans fluid pan drain plug, with driving around the block while manually shifting into each gear will accomplish the same thing and is less work. 4. if you do drop the pan , only to learn that you have wasted your time, be sure to use a good quality gasket maker when you re-install.

OR pull the rear section of drive shaft and make it fwd UNTIL it's not 18 degrees out side with 4'' of snow on the ground. i guess i should hve been more clear.

if it is slipping it is dead.

the other solution which costs less is to make it a FWD car by removing the rear section of drive shaft. you have to leave the front section of drive shaft or the fluid will leak out.

it should.

there is a fuse hold socket about the size of a zippo lighter, the cap has FWD on it. (if it has a cap still.) it's ion the passenger side under the hood behind the strut tower. pull the fuse and the light goes out. put it in and the light goes on and you have FWD only. but, my guess is that when you pull the fuse you will have ''torque bind'' binding, bucking, shuddering in tight turns. feels like a 4wd truck with the hubs lock on dry pavement. but pull the fuse and see. more info on torque bind: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119181 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467&highlight=flashing+temp+light

this one? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118510&highlight=trans*+brave

does this help? no part numbers for the solenoids but there are two #2s this happens to be the GT trans but the valve bodies are all the same. you can look up your car's trans if you like. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_29/automatic_transmission/at_control_valve/illustration_3/

preference of donor engines for a 2.5L car. 1. 95 ej22 w/ auto trans - straight swap, use the flex plate / flywheel that came with your original trans, non-interference engine. 2. 96 ej22 w/ auto trans - use exhaust y-pipe from the 2.2L car and flex / flywheel from your trans , non-interference engine. 3. 97 - 98 ej22 w/ auto trans - use exhaust y-pipe from the 2.2L car and flex / flywheel from your trans , interference engine. there are a few oddities, if the donoe car is 96 - 98 you need the exhaust y-pipe. the exhaust ports on the heads changed from dual to single. on all of these swaps, the power steering lins will not match the support bracket on the 2.2l intake. most folks don't worry and just let them fly. some make a bracket extension. if you have the 2.2L car you can swap in the PS line from it and they will work perfectly. the flex plate / flywhell matches the trans it came with so use the original one that was on your car. (in the US the 2.5L trans has a larger torque converter and or pressure plate .) do not disconnect the AC lines from the compressor. unbolt the compressor from the bracket and flop it out of the way during removal and re-install. when you jack up the trans from below so the engine mounts will clear the cross member DO NOT put the jack under the trans oil pan. blace a block under the front diff and jack from there.(just behind the cross member. the flex plate to torque converter bolts are removed from the top of the engine passenger side under the throttle body. during removal it's no big deal since you are swapping in different engine, but when installing, if you remove the TPS sensor mark it in 2 places so you can put it back EXACTLY the way it was. this will save a lot of head ache when you go to start it up. most folks don't remove the tps but i do, makes a little more room. good luck.

i copied this from several other threads, please dis regard things that are clearly not directed to you. the most common failure is a bad duty-c solenoid in the rear extension housing. costs about 100$ from online dealer. you can do it in the drive way if you don't mind working under the car. if the duty c fails it should trigger a flashing AT Temp light at start up which indicates an electrical fault in the trans. there is a fuse holder under the hood passenger side behind the strut tower. put a fuse in there and see if that clears up the binding . if yes, then your duty c is probably ok. the pic below shows the transfer clutch which is in the rear extension housing on the rear of the trans. there are clutch plates inside the drum and and a matching drum on the rear of the trans that slides into the one you see. and the doodad with the green wire is the duty-c solenoid. read the link below, scream when you have had enough. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467&highlight=flashing+temp+light how did the car run before you pulled the engine?

when i read the first post i assumed it was sticking open, now i think it is sticking closed. i would adjust ''the screw'' l a little. keep track up how much. and see if the situation improves. it cost nothing and should be easy. maybe start with a fair amount, one revolution or more. if you notice a bad running symptom, move it back half way. depending on how often it ''sticks'' it may take several days to know you fixed it. i feel like i have seen a service manual page that reads""DO NOT ADJUST THIS SCREW''.

St. Louis, Missouri area

this is from the 99 fsm. solenoid............description......................terminal #..........ohms Duty solenoid A (Line pressure solenoid).....[ 5 — 16]..........[ 2.0 — 4.5] Duty solenoid B (Lock-up solenoid) ............[13 — 16].........[10.0 —17.0] Duty solenoid D (2-4 brake solenoid)..........[ 9 — 16]..........[ 2.0 — 4.5] hope this helps

here in the US we are power hungry. bigger is better. and if this years car isn;'t more powerful than last years car we won't buy them. they never offered the legacy 90 - 94 with the ej18 here in the US, but apparently that was offered over seas. maybe still is. i think they have in fact stopped producing the ej22 world wide, but i'm hot sure. seems it would have a market in europe. i guess subaru sees the gas price spike of 08 as temporary. but ford and chevy seemed to have changed their strategy and product line. i wish subaru would build a a car with the ej22 and sell it as an economy car. but i guess if you are getting 30? mpg out of a ej25 you don't need to do that. plus, re-tooling for the next five years is probably at least a 5 year process, maybe 10 years. hard to slam on the brakes and make a quick turn i guess. oh well.

ask them to apply the above mentioned credit to you head gasket job. i hate to harp on this and i don't want to make you feel bad. but if you really needed the transfer clutch rebuild they would not be offing you a credit on a trans, IMHO. i think they rebuilt the clutch and it didn't fix it. and then they decided to change the fluid which has fixed it. if they had done the fluid first maybe you would not have needed the rebuild and could have saved $1000. any way i'm a cynic when it comes to dealers so i'll leave it alone now, but it doesn't hurt to ask for a credit at the dealer. the worst thay can do is say no. good luck.

did you read the TCU code. the flashing TEMP light indicates a fault, you need to rear the code to know. but since you asked a specific question you may have done that. did he / you dent / bend the trans oil pan when you jacked it up. this often causes trans problems. apparently there is not a lot of room in between the pan and the valve body and it is easy pinch wires. have pulled the trans pan yet?

i don't know a whole lot about this stuff, but maybe we don't notice the loss of power because of the power curve. the factroy rated horse power is for a specif RPM, right? so when taking off from a stop, you never see that HP until you reach that rpm. but i guess if you are winding it all the way out you will hit it pretty quick. i swapped an ej22 into a gt as well and it is surprising how quick it is. if you want yourout back to be sporty, put some GT sized tires on it, 205/55/16, or 195/65/15. see if you notice a difference.

nicer than my first house.

yeah, it's tricky. with the car wheels well blocked, and hand brake on, try moving the hoist a few inches closer to the car and while it is shoved in, put a small wedge behind the hoist wheels so it won't roll back out. that way it is lifting up and to the rear. then wiggle it. this may shift it enough on the rear trans mount to fit the bolt holes. how much are you missing by??