johnceggleston

FYI: the handshake'' method does not work for odb2 cars. you have to use the 6 pin diagnostic connector under the dash. ground out the correct pin and the ART Temp light will flash the code number. key on, engine off, foot on the brake???????

if you say so, but it does not look like an old bolt!!!!!

i used the old bolts.

if the cats have already been removed, the mid pipe and muffler (with pipe) is easy. no bolts to undo, just rubber exhaust hangers . take a can of spray lube to make it easier.

how to fill and burp your cooling system. - burpcoolingsystem - Subaru Legacy Forums

did you try and lock / unlock the doors with the key fob? if no key fob, disconnect the battery, put the key in the ignition turn the key to start and let go. re-connect the battery. the remote entry / alarm system assumes you are stealing the car when the battery is reconnected, unless you have the key in the run position.

hard to believe an ej22 is getting its 3rd set of head gaskets.

like gary, i have never heard it referred to as as a VA diff. but that is beside the point. for the most part all diffs from ej-engine cars will swap, if the final drive ratio is the same. so what engine and trans is in your 98 impreza? and what is the engine, trans, year of the car the diff came from? give me this info and i can probably tell you if the ratios match.

this is normal. in 1, 2, or 3 you can use the engine to help slow down the car. but in D there is no engine braking. your splice must have eliminated the cause of the code. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0720 try putting in the FWD fuse under the hood ans see how it drives then.

first, do a compression test on #4. and then check the valve clearance on all 4 valves, especially the exhaust valves on #4.

mine were. and there are lots of busted socket, breaker bars and bent jacks to prove it. the problem is , unless the car is at least 2 feet in the air. you cannot swing the breaker bar. when the guy at my shop did mine, i think he used a 3 ft. breaker bar.

it is winter, and we have a winner!!! the WWBBQ = winter winner brake booster question.

TIP: on the rear diff, remove the fill plug, top one, first. i you can not get it out, do not drain the diff.

is the oil pan on the trans dented? did you jack it up by the oil pan ? open means there is a short in the circuit. jacking on the oil pan and denting it will damage wires inside. i do not remember if the ''clutch solenoid'' is the common damage . clutch solenoid sounds a bit off, usually it is some thing like torque converter lock up solenoid duty solenoid A but i don't really know. i would double check the connectors on top of the trans and where it meets the engine. examine the pins to make sure they are clean and unbent. check the wires as they meet the connectors. not needed to run in FWD, but AWD will not work with out the rear speed sensor. the splice should be ok, as long as you do a good job. i think the wire is shielded. not shifting to 4th could be a temp issue. these trans will not go to 4th unless it has reach full operating temp. but it could be a damaged wire or solenoid too. what happens if you select 3 and drive it, and then shift to 4. or start in 1 and manually shift up to 4? all other shifts work ok? trans codes cannot be read with a reader, unless you have a ''subaru select tool''. do you have a flashing AT Temp light at start up? this indicates an electrical problem in the trans the last time it was driven. there is a diagnostic connector you can use to flash the trans codes. try searching ''readingtranscodes'' to find it. the black connector is under the dash to the right of the steering column, in the US. all pins are to flash codes. there are 2 ''probes'' for grounding out the pins. the AT Temp light will flash the codes, if any. it will flash an all is well code if there are none. you only need to do this if you have a flashing AT Temp light at start up. what Pxxxx error code did you get when you connected the reader.? did you reset it ? did it come back on?

first, year = 97 model engine trans miles color it matters. second, sorry about my earlier post. i thought you were offering advice, not asking for it. my mistake. in your case, ej22 or ej25 makes a big difference.

3.5 Remove the exhaust manifold. imho, it is almost impossible to boil down a multi-step process to a simple 1,2,3, description. better to be complete and comprehensive. for rookies, they need details.

as long as it has not been over heated, yes!!!!!

one possible issue for the rear wiper is a broken wire in the harness where it moves from the chassis to the hatch. the washer issue is likely a hose issue, maybe where it jumps from the chassis to the hatch.

check the connector and make sure the wires and pins look good. 90 - 94 will work. but the interchange software differentiates between turbo, non- turbo A/T, and non-turbo manual. http://www.car-part.com did you use the computer from the 94? also look for a large air leak after the MAF. on stock legacys, there is a large vac hose, the size of your thumb, that runs from the IAC on the intake manifold to the plastic air plenum. (plastic tube from MAF to throttle body.) it connects to the very bottom of the plenum and is hard to see. also easy to knock of when working in the area. if that hose is disconnected the car will do exactly what you described. but i do not know if i will throw that code. check it.

i don't think , (EDITED) 15" AND 16" would ............ work. but some one with 06 experience will need to confirm.

years ago, i remember reading that JDM subarus, all of them?, some of them? a few of them? had this feature. apparently some one imported an auto trans and the FWD fuse did not work as intended. because the dash display says DIFF LOCK, this is not an accident, obviously, DUH! it may be as simple as cutting power the dutyC instead of grounding out a pin on the TCU connector, or it could be that the fluid flow? pressure? transfer clutch? and spool valve? have been re-engineered to work differently. a similar thing was done around 04 , in the H6 auto trans at least. the transfer clutch works differently, backwards? spme one knows all about this, which member swapped an o4 A/T into an 01 - 03 H6? the fuse causes it to lock up. none of this helps the original poster, as stated, he should put the spare on the rear. and it would be interesting to read the owner's manual to see what it says.

the 14'' wheels will not clear the brakes. sorry.

first check the coolant level, top off if low. go straight to a parts store and buy a gallon of 50/50 antifreeze. you can drive a long time with a leaking system if you just top it off. the air moving around the engine / radiator at 60 will / can keep it from overheating. but the gauge would tend to rise at a stop light. i would not jump to replacing the t-stat right away. especially if the coolant level is low. factory subaru t-stats rarely fail. aftermarket t-stat cause problems every time. and it could be an external leak of the head gaskets. this tends to be a slow weeping leak , and can be driven as long as you keep coolant in it. the leak will get progressively worse until you have to fix it. but is could also be any other cooling system leak, bad cap, bad hose clamp bad hose bad t-stat gasket, cracked t-stat housing. once the cooling system is full, park it in your drive way when you get home, let it idle, put a clean piece of cardboard under the engine. check for a drip or wet spot on the cardboard.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fill-and-burp-your-cooling-system-burpcoolingsystem-198487.html?t=198487

if you have the money, it would be a good idea to replace all of the timing components before install, belt, 3 idlers and tensioner. a failure of any of these will bend valves, $$$$.