johnceggleston

i think they are 15.9 gal tanks, but that does not explain your problem. the pick up tube may, but this is not a new to you car is it? you've had this a while. seems like you would have run into this earlier. it would be interesting to know if both sides of the tank are the same. i seem to remember that the passenger side is larger but i don't really know. maybe the ''siphon pump'' from the driver side failed. any chance the pump cut off early? did you try to add a little after it first cut off? (i know this is not recommended but mine takes about .2 gals after it first shuts off. i do this on long trips some times.) some pumps cut off when the other guy's pump shuts off, it seems.

there are lots of places these engines will leak and end up dripping onto and burning on the exhaust. the most common are: rear separator plate - on the back of the engine behind the fly wheel / flex plate next to the crank. MOST COMMON, you have to pull the engine. (it is possible that the mechanic ''dumbed'' down his explanation to keep it simple, but his price quote is scary (-cost estimated $1500 to $3500) and leaves room for a lot of bill padding. if the seal between the case halves is leaking it will be more economical to find a different engine, probably. and i have never heard of this happening.) valve cover gaskets - pretty easy and not real expensive to do. front cam and crank seals - easy to do with the timing belt. oil pump o-ring / seal - easy to do with the timing belt adds about an hour, or less, and maybe 8$. much less common (rarely fails unless someone has already don't it incorrectly) is the rear main seal - you have to pull the engine to do it. this is NOT something you ''may as well do'' when the engine is out. (unless it is leaking badly.) experienced and talented shops can do it correctly without problems but a lot of beginners and backyard mechanics have trouble getting it right and they end up leaking worse afterwards.

i don't know how the tie rod bolt got buggered, but FYI for next time, the castle nut is the same thread as the lug nuts. same with the ball joint castle nut. i keep several lug nuts in my tool box so i can beat on them instead of the castle nuts.

no, but 5w30 would be better.

98 legos have wires that connect the speedo tpo the speed sensor. i assume the imp obs is the same. i can't remember the cause and fix of the ''jumping'' speedo needle but it is either the speed sensor or the speedo, i think. i think the sensor is easier to replace, but both are pretty easy. search for 'jumping speed sensor', you should find a few threads that will help. or see the list of related threads, scroll to the bottom of this page. or pull up one of the threads from the search and then look for related threads.

sounds a whole like SOME of my time under a subaru. other times it goes easy as 1,2,3. i think it would be wise for those of us who climb under and work on our own cars to buy pb blaster by the case and spray it on every bolt and nut we see, even the ones we are not working on at the time. it can't hurt. and when was the last time something ''fell off'' a car because it had too much blaster on it?

PO341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range Problem P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction P0507 Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected

boy, you sure didn't leave much wiggle room in the price. FOR SALE $100 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118701

so i checked the b22 connector and all of the engine side were populated but i added a ground anyway. no help. i did not look at the egine side of the connector on the original engine though, it's 45 mins away in the mountains and there is snow on the ground. but i do still have it. (NOTE: on b22, the bottom row of pins, 13 - 16 all go to ground unless you have a car w/ TCS.) so now i'm back at square one. another piece of info, the ecu is not the 98 obw ecu, it is from a 96 lego L wagon. i have access to a 98 which i think i'll swap in just for grins, but i'm not optimistic. but i guess the wiring could be different between the 2. the car runs great. we took it on a 700 mile round trip and it didn't miss a beat. any ideas?? thanks.

you are probably on the road and skiing by now, but... rent a pick up or mini van, not a car. (or rent a u-haul truck and car transporter) buy an engine, see below (check to see if it is from an auto trans). spend a day delivering the engine and car to a shop ( maybe in the denver / colorado springs area.) then go on vacation. when you pass back through on your way north, pick up your car. are you going back to seattle? (1200 miles?) this gives you fewer rental miles to off set the cost of the engine and the labor to install. when you get home you can sell the car if you want. 1995 Engine Subaru Legacy 2.2L 4 cyl, comp 150 all * $350 Cars N Parts, Inc. CO(Eaton) 1-800-690-2102 http://www.carsnparts.org/ or 1995 Engine Subaru Legacy2.2L, AOD,1-95,MFI,4X4,CHK 161,252mi $400 Loveland Auto Salvage USA-CO(Loveland) E-mail 1-800-528-6582 just a thought.

bearing will make noise all the time, diffs may only make noise when under power. in other words if the noise goes away when you put in the fuse it is not a bearing.

this may help explain. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94254&highlight=FWD*+fuse+rear

huh? i'm confused.

that does not look like a 97 legacy / outback mirror. i don't know what it is but i does not look like stock. compare what's in the pic with the driver side. if they are the same, go look at a different outback.

in the future i think you will get the same help if you just start one thread about your problem. those of us who are here every day are not going to pay more attention to the member with the most threads open. on the contrary, we might pay less attention. no offense intended, we're here to help. now, if the noise didn't change when you put the fuse in, then it is probably not related to the drive train being powered. it could still be the rear diff, but the odds are low. it could be a wheel bearing and those odds are high, very very high compared to the diff. if you have a mechanic's stethoscope use it to listen to each knuckle as you spin it with the wheel off the ground. if you do not have one, i got one for under 5$ at harbor freight, put your hand on the spring and spin the wheel. you may ''feel'' the noise with your hand. i don't think you can over fill the rear diff, at least not through the fill plug. once it is full it will start to run out. so i would not worry about that being over filled or air bubbles in the oil. check the bearings in the rear. if the left was done start on the right.

change the fluid, drain and re-fill, at the next couple of oil changes. can't hurt and it doesn't cost much.

check the fluid? remove the fill plug before you remove the drain plug. you don't want to drain what you have until you are sure you can replace it.

any size, a paper clip will work. that means the noise is in some part of the rear drive train and it is linked to power being applied as opposed to just turning. when the fuse is in all the same parts a turning but there is no power to the rear. it depends on just what is wrong. rear diffs don't fail often so a used replacement is a good choice. a drive way fix. what is your car doing??

i think you should just leave the old hood at your parents house, then you can have this conversation next year at this time. does your wife get a vote? i'm sure i'd get an ear full if it were me. regarding the law, there used to be an awful lot of ''hot rods'' in the 50s running around with out hoods.

some dealer parts counters will match the online price, and then you save the shipping, but most charge retail, not wholesale. talk to them and see if you can work a deal.

97 should have the old style tensioner, if so no need to replace it unless it is leaking. nice having another car to look at. i can't imagine having to remember every nut and bolt.

a recent thread with a similar problem was solved by correcting the the fuel lines from the filter to the engine, did you swap them onto the wrong lines? usually using the wrong timing marks are my first guess but since this is your 4th belt, on a subaru?, it is probably not that. it would not hurt to look at the cam marks, 3 screws for each cam cover, just to make sure it didn't jump at install. bad cam or crank sensor, or disconnected sensor? (i can never remember which triggers which, spark or fuel. crank is spark and cam is fuel?)

when you put the key in the ignition and turn it you do 2 things, 1. unlock the steering column so you and turn the wheel. 2. turn a small electrical switch which first powers and then starts the car. i would remove the plastic surrounding the steering column so you can see what is there, 4 screws from the bottom you will need a long phillips driver. it does not sound like you need to mess with the mechanical lock and or key. the switch is held onto the the left end, door side, of the mechanical stuff with a small screw, a tiny screw. remove the screw and you can turn it with a flat screw driver. this switch looks like it is part of the wiring harness. i would ASSUME that it connects to the harness somewhere close by with connectors. the switch may be your problem, may not. i would start checking at this point. what works and what does not work. if you can find what does not work you will know what to fix.

read this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112958&highlight=http%3A%2F%2Fallwheeldriveauto.com%2Fsubaru+

my 95 lego L sedan, w/ AWD has disc brakes. it also has ABS.