johnceggleston

you're right, my tounge was covering my eye teeth and i couldn't see what i was saying. 195/60/15 is a stock tire size 95 - 99 lego Ls

i don't know about the largest, but the stock 15'' tire is 195/xx/15, the same diameter as your 14s . EDIT: as you will see below i screwed up, the 15'' tire of equal size is 195/60/15.

enjoy the drive, don't forget the beer.

used is probably a good choice. these thing can get glommed up with rust filings, or boogered by debris but failure is pretty rare. so used is a good choice if you in fact need one. could just be a connection or the tone ring. pull the wheel and rotor and take a look.

i'm sorry i can't help with your question. and my criteria for buying a car are different than yours, no doubt. but i would not buy a car with ''bubbles in the usual places'' and certainly not for $4k. there is no chance the rust is going to go away. i would buy a car needing parts or engine or trans that i can bolt in as opposed to a car with rust. but you need what you need and you only have so many to pick from. i understand that. buying rust just seems so short sighted. unless of course you know something about the driver that i do not. let me know if you are interested in a 97 GT auto wagon with a 96 2.2L swap in VA. ~152k on the car and a little less on the engine. new t-belt and seals all around. i've driven it ~10k since the swap. clear coat is peeling, ''uh-oh, better call macco''. and a hard 1 - 2 shift. leather seats, firestone m&s tires w/ excelent tread.

link??

ok, i certainly cannot say with any authority how the head bolts should be installed, but i'm looking at doing it this winter and so i would like to know. i thought oil on the threads was the correct approach.

i was wondering , in stead of a 2'' mounting with a bolt, how about something 10'' or 12 '' with a dozen pop rivets. at some point lots of little things add up to one big thing.

i don't think GTs come with mud flaps, remove them. it may be cheaper to change the tires than to lift the car.

they should, lots of folks have put outback struts on 91 legos. but if your tire is rubbing the strut they will not help. if the tire is rubbing the car body, it will give yyou another 1". where is it rubbing??

yes those are the 3.

some one make a 1" spacer, i think a set of 4?, cost 245$. the link was posted on here. i'd google legacy strut lift spacers. is the forester rear strut as long a an outback rear strut?? i hear forester springs on outback struts will lift it a little in the rear, i think i remember reading that. found it: http://www.subtle-solutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_25_89_90&products_id=107

this doesn't sound timing belt related to me. if the timing belt slips, the car will run crappy and it will not ''heal'' or drive ok when cold, i don't think. it sounds more like a trans problem. or maybe the sound is the a/c or alt belt and not directly related to the power problem. double check the trans fluid level.

any other work done recently.?? i disconnected the 3 connectors at the rear of the engine, 2 large, 1 smaller to ''clean'' the contacts. left them undone to dry and addressed something else inside the car. a few minutes later i went to start it and of course, nothing. but when i turned the key off to remove it, the fans started running continuously, and other weird stuff. so i remembered the connectors and plugged them back in. only when i connected the 3rd one, the bottom most one, did the fans go off. and then when i tried the key it started right up. thank goodness. good luck.

i would think there is enough room for the nut. if you pop open the access panel in the floor of the trunk for the fuel sending unit you'll see the space available and how far it extends. as i recall there was about 1 - 2 inches in depth, but i don't remember if it was just in that area or how far it extends.

1.4mm is less than 2/32s.

not on a90 - 99 awd subaru. yours may be 03 or so and it could be different, but i doubt it. side to side you could, in theory, run a 13 and a 16 tire of completely different sizes and the open diff would not complain. it may not be optimum, but it would handle it. but on an awd subaru, the center diff will take a beating if the front and rears are different sizes. an if you think that all 205/70/15 tires are the same size i suggest you go measure a few. different brands will be have a different circumference even when the tires are the same size. and a 1/4 inch of circumference difference is not unheard. we are not talking diameter, which is about 26.3'' on a 205/70/15. we are takling the measure around the outside of the tire, which is in the 86.6'' range on a 205/70/15. 1/4" is ~0.2% of the starting point. and then there is the wear factor, if the fronts are 40k tires and the rears are 80k tires they are going to wear at different rates and they will not be the same size in a year or two. and in fact, on an awd subaru you are better off with one brand on one side of the car and the other brand on the other side of the car because the open diffs will allow that. the center diffs are more particular. but don't take my word for it, read your owners manual.

i believe you are mistaken. my owners manual says that all tires should be within 1/4" circumference of each other. i have also heard it said that the average of the fronts needs to match the average of the rears. but this is new to me and i'm not sure, but it is an interesting concept.

the wiper base is probably slipping on the splinned drive stud. pop off the round plastic caps at the base of the wiper arms and see if you can snug up the nuts any. fairly common in the snow months.

the 16s are smaller than the 15s. google ''miata tire calculator'' and see. but both are larger than the stock 205/70/15s that came with the car.

not in neutral at around 2k? is it cv related??

i had one once where someone had the hold up the pull lever in the car while i released the latch in the front. a real pain but i could get it open. i finally figured out a way to do it by my self using a string closed in the door/ window to hold the pull lever. but yours sounds like it need pb blaster.

nothing helps the life of a trans more than changing the fluid. save your money on the additives, just use the right fluid and change it more often than specified. some one posted a while back that they do a drain and fill on the trans every time they do a drain and fill on the engine oil. this may sound excessive but if you are doing it your self it only adds the cost of ~gallon of ATF at every oil change.

go to harbor freight and get an automotive stethoscope. it's about 5$. you will be able to pin point the noise in minutes. it isn't brain surgery quality but it works. http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-41966.html

if you are replacing the tone rings you are going to have to replace the bearings as well, which isn't a bad thing it's just more work and parts. have you considered used knuckles. you can't remove the tone rings without pulling the hubs. and i don't think you want to reinstall the hubs on the existing bearings, do you? shouldn't you replace them?